BOUGHT ALL NEW OEM PARTS FROM FORD STILL CODE 629
#16
The ECU does a electrical check of its system just before you start the engine. Sounds like you have a shorted wire somewhere. Or possible a bad ECU(shorted driver for that circuit)
You said you have continuity from the ECU pin 53 to the transmission connector pin 4. But did you check for continuity with other pins of the ECU to that pin 53? There should be no other continuity with any other pin with ECU and transmission harness disconnected. If that is good. Then replug the ECU back in(hope you had the battery disconnected during these testes). Remeasure continuity again from the ECU pin 53 to other pins. It will be hard to back probe the ECU harness in place, but I use a straight pin to poke into the wire. There should be no continuity, if so, then the ECU is bad.
You said you have continuity from the ECU pin 53 to the transmission connector pin 4. But did you check for continuity with other pins of the ECU to that pin 53? There should be no other continuity with any other pin with ECU and transmission harness disconnected. If that is good. Then replug the ECU back in(hope you had the battery disconnected during these testes). Remeasure continuity again from the ECU pin 53 to other pins. It will be hard to back probe the ECU harness in place, but I use a straight pin to poke into the wire. There should be no continuity, if so, then the ECU is bad.
#17
Back Probed all PCM harness wires to Pin 53 and there where none that had continuity yet all had various resistance with battery disconnected of course. I heading out to do the stop to 40 mph hold for 15 sec with o/d off accel to 50 o/d on for 15 sec. then complete stop for 20 program thingy 5 times. I can initially defeat any UXO in the world but I can not grasp this tranny problem. Ill keep testing and posting. But I think Im gonna get good and drunk tonight maybe shake so ideas loose.
Twins birthday tomorrow. Missed first 10 for my Country. Missin number 11 makes the first 10 a cakewalk.
Twins birthday tomorrow. Missed first 10 for my Country. Missin number 11 makes the first 10 a cakewalk.
#18
As a last resort, cut or remove the TCC wire from the EEC connector (leaving enough so you can re-splice it later), the run the TCC wire from the transmission into the cab.
Hook it up to a switch that is connected to ground. You should be able to manually lock the converter by grounding the TCC wire from the solenoid pack.
Ground the wire, and you should immediately feel the converter lockup as long as you're on the gas. If you see no change, then I'd suspect a transmission fault. If you see the converter clutch engage successfully, the PCM is probably bad.
Hook it up to a switch that is connected to ground. You should be able to manually lock the converter by grounding the TCC wire from the solenoid pack.
Ground the wire, and you should immediately feel the converter lockup as long as you're on the gas. If you see no change, then I'd suspect a transmission fault. If you see the converter clutch engage successfully, the PCM is probably bad.
#19
As a last resort, cut or remove the TCC wire from the EEC connector (leaving enough so you can re-splice it later), the run the TCC wire from the transmission into the cab.
Hook it up to a switch that is connected to ground. You should be able to manually lock the converter by grounding the TCC wire from the solenoid pack.
Ground the wire, and you should immediately feel the converter lockup as long as you're on the gas. If you see no change, then I'd suspect a transmission fault. If you see the converter clutch engage successfully, the PCM is probably bad.
Hook it up to a switch that is connected to ground. You should be able to manually lock the converter by grounding the TCC wire from the solenoid pack.
Ground the wire, and you should immediately feel the converter lockup as long as you're on the gas. If you see no change, then I'd suspect a transmission fault. If you see the converter clutch engage successfully, the PCM is probably bad.
#20
I have noticed that while coming down my dirt road at about 40 mph when I tap the brake while still on the gas, the rpms increase approx. 5k rpms and the trans downshift and acceleration is experienced. Is that the converter locking up? I'll go out and try the cut the wire procedure and post my findings thanks L.D.
Sounds like the converter is unlocking. A good test is at 55mph, just lightly tap the brake pedal while watching your tach(if you have one) you will see about 200 to 500 RPM jump up in speed. If it does that, then the TCC is working and probly a ECU is having a brain fart.
This may be of intrest for testing a electronic tranny.
Testing Electronic Transmission—Domestic Vehicles
#21
Sounds like the converter is unlocking. A good test is at 55mph, just lightly tap the brake pedal while watching your tach(if you have one) you will see about 200 to 500 RPM jump up in speed. If it does that, then the TCC is working and probly a ECU is having a brain fart.
This may be of intrest for testing a electronic tranny.
Testing Electronic Transmission—Domestic Vehicles
This may be of intrest for testing a electronic tranny.
Testing Electronic Transmission—Domestic Vehicles
#23
#24
I made the snide remark only because you have focused on the Code 629 problem in this thread. I recall you have swapped/replaced solenoid packs already as well as wiring. You have made continuity checks but I do not see where you actually tried to verify the PCM solenoid "ON" signals are actually getting to the solenoid pack. I mentioned at least once the possibility of bad driver transistors in the PCM. This would be a rare problem but with all the parts and wiring changes you did it's just about the last thing left. If I missed where you did measure voltage, I apologize.
The new symptom you popped on us leads me to believe there is some more than just an electrical problem. I am not a transmission expert by any means, but there are some on this forum that have quite a bit of experience with them.
#25
Okay I went back and started to read through the ATSG manual for the E4OD that was posted on here so I can make a test harness and came across something right away. I will try and post the pic in my gallery but here is the jest of it. The manual shift linkage on the E4OD shown in the manual shows the lever in the down position towards the pan or earth surface. My lever is pointing up towards the floor of the truck. Which is correct? I think my chiltons and haynes show it pointing down also but dont have them handy. HELP
#26
#27
#28
Here's something weird. This morning I started my truck and took off before it had a chance to reach operating temp. The transmission shifted through all gears like it was off the showroom floor. I went through the whole series about 5 times before the temp gauge started to rise to normal. As soon as it started moving the shifting became erratic. Long first short to no 2nd and normal shift to 3rd and O/D. What the ???? anyone have a clue what this means? Is there trick to dropping the valve body without losing the loaded ball and spring?
#29
#30
In other words it depends on if the shift linkage pulls or pushes, as to where the lever goes.