My 86 F250 started leaking bad out of one of the rear seals, so I figure it's time to do both.. I'm thinking it might need a wheel bearing too as I've always heard a little squeak out of the rear in reverse.

The sucky part is this is a job I'd normally do myself but apartment living has me needing to keep the wheels on it. I've never done a rear, but several fronts and the rear looks just as easy. What should I expect labor wise for the seals and possibly the wheel bearings? I'm pretty sure my brake shoes are done on the passenger side now too due to the leak even though they are almost new from the PO.

It's frustrating to have to take your truck in to have someone else fix... especially when I know I could do it. I even have the socket Just put in a new water pump and overhauled the cooling system and was enjoying driving it too

 

Wheel bearing is going to be more of a low frequency growl or rumble, never heard one squeak. I bet the squeak is a dry u-joint needle bearing.

Get ready to be hit hard. They charge a premium for parts, and labor. A guy I know had problems with his brakes on a 94 f350 during a vacation trip, and they charged him $700 for the work they did back there.

I would make sure they use the seal you can get from Autozone that is made by Timken. It's around $30 just for the seal, but it's a repair seal that will not leak. You actually put rtv on the original sealing surface, the new seal has it's own sealing surface built in.

 

U joint would make sense since they are original, that'll be nice...


I've heard good things about a shop here in town.. but worst case I'll top the diff off and drive it 200 miles to my parent's and do it myself

 

The repairs are pretty easy, but you can always run in to issues that require a parts run. I've done things like that in a big parking lot off to one side.

Having just done mine, if you're not OCD like me it would be maybe an hour labor per side if you don't run in to any issues but are also doing the bearings. Less if just the seal and brake shoes.
Aside from the two seals, seal puller and brake shoes I'd have on hand (if you're doing the bearings also):
2lb hand sledge
Steel bearing punch (for driving out old bearing races)
Brass punch (for driving in new races)
Something to drive in the new seal with like PVC pipe or piece of oak 2x4.
Assembly lube for lubing the bearings before you get gear oil in to them.

Even if not doing the bearings (I agree the squealing is more likely a u-joint) then have:
Gear oil.
Open drain pan of some sort like a hog feeder.
New bearing lock nuts in case yours come apart. IIRC they are right and left hand threaded.

Two suggestions:
1. Does the apt complex have garages residents can rent, would be worth it if they do and you can rent one for a month.
2. Post in the regional section to see if someone has space you could do the work in. I've done that before for people because I know what apartment complex living is like.
3. Many auto parts stores have "no parking lot repairs" signs, but I'm always seeing semi-major repairs going on in their lots. Might be worth asking if you can park around back to work on it, explaining why you can't work at home.

 

I did mine about a month or so ago. A couple things to keep in mind:

Pay particular at tension to the spindle surface the seal rides on, if its really messed up, get a speedy sleeve to put over i, check w/a local bearing house if your auto parts store doesn't know what you are talking about.

Get good quality brakes, the cheep Chinese ones are junk.
I would recommend getting a new spring set to go w/them.

I agree with getting the timkin seal, they are top quality.
I couldn't get my seal to go in straight, ended up having a friend w/a press put it in for me. So you might want to locate a press, just in case.

I would find a place that you can do it yourself, mine cost about $110, for 1 seal, brakes, new wheel cyl's, and new springs

 

I bet that would be costly at a shop. Franklin is probably right in the ballpark if I had to guess.

Should you do it yourself I would check the drain plug to make sure it is going to come out before I drained the diff. I don't think it is necessary if youre just changing the bearings and seals. However, should you drain the diff make sure you get the right oil for a peg leg or LS whichever you have. Also ,I would mop the tubes out. Take a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" PVC pipe and cut a slit in the end long ways with a hacksaw. Use the slit to trap a shop rag in. Then dip your mop in solvent and push everything inside the tube to the pumpkin a few times. This gets all the contaminants out of the axle tubes. Then clean the diff out really well. There is a flat almost tray like spot in the bottom of the pumpkin that likes to collect all kinds of stuff. Be sure to detail it out to make sure there are no piece of gear in there. That could ruin your day.

 

I've been hitting the fill plug with PB blaster. Fortunately nothing rusts in E. Oregon except bare steel. At least none of the brake parts are old, everything but the drums was replaced 7k miles ago.

Bruno you must know how persnickety I am.. if I had the place to do that I would be doing as you described.

I'm going to try and get an estimate this week. If it ends up being more than $400ish to do the seals on both sides I'll probably find a way to do it myself. I could afford it, but the thought of spending $700 on a job I could do myself for around $125-$150 in parts including brake shoes is annoying.

Parts list so far:
Raybestos Pro Grade brake shoes #314PG $53
Raybestos Pro Grade wheel cylinders #WC37132 and #WC37133 $5.50 x2
Raybestos Pro Grade drum spring kit #H7164 $8
Timken wheel hub seal #370047A $17 x2

Anything else? Rock Auto sure is handy to look up prices and part numbers...

 

I looked up that Timken seal and that is the right one(370047A). I didn't think that was right since Autozone wants $35.99 for it, but it's the same number. It comes with a seal driver in the box also.

 

FWIW I used National 370047A seals on mine and haven't had any issues after several thousand miles.

Not sure if it was mentioned but be sure to check your axle housing vent. If it's clogged you'll get leaking hub seals.
It's on top of the housing to the left of the diff. Make sure the line it's connected to ic clear of obstruction also.

 

This is the hose that secures the brake line splitter and should be clipped to the top frame rail.

 

Got a quote and they will be using the Timken seal.. $150 per side for just the seal, no brakes. Reasonable enough for me to get it done. I'm hoping the brakes are not too fubar'd but the PO had Les Schwab do them and as far as I'm concerned they are a bunch of hacks. Funny thing is they did the seals too.

I'm going to go ahead and have both sides done... have it back next week sometime probably. First though before I drop it off I'll be clearing out the vent tube.

 

Too bad you couldn't find a place to do it yourself. You would be welcome to use my driveway or garage, except its about a 400 mile round trip.

Steve

 

It's life I suppose. I look back and realize how lucky I've been to never take a vehicle to a shop for anything so....

Is there a door tag or axle tag that indicates open or limited slip diff? I'd like to know before I pull the cover after I get her back...

 

There is on mine, I have the sterling diff. Can't remember which number represents the limited slip. I just jacked up one wheel, put it in neutral, to see if I could turn the wheel.

Steve

 

If you have oil on the shoes, they are going to need replacing. You will find as they start to dry up, they will start grabbing and locking up if they have a lot of oil on them. The only way I have been able to save them is take a torch and carefully burn the oil out of the shoes, but that's when you are really strapped for money and can't afford new ones.