1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

rear hub seal labor on a 10.25" sterling

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #16  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:38 PM
Eddiec1564's Avatar
Eddiec1564
Eddiec1564 is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Arcadia, Fla
Posts: 2,934
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 25 Posts
Originally Posted by Franklin2
If you have oil on the shoes, they are going to need replacing. You will find as they start to dry up, they will start grabbing and locking up if they have a lot of oil on them. The only way I have been able to save them is take a torch and carefully burn the oil out of the shoes, but that's when you are really strapped for money and can't afford new ones.
I soaked the brake shoes in brake cleaner over night. That got rid of all the oil and I had no problems after. These were riveted shoes too, not sure if the bonded ones will survive the soak.



I'll be doing my 89 F250's 10.25 axle for the same reason, just hope the new shoes are not oil soaked........ they are bonded type.
 
  #17  
Old 08-01-2013, 07:35 AM
Rovernut's Avatar
Rovernut
Rovernut is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by randomguy
Is there a door tag or axle tag that indicates open or limited slip diff? I'd like to know before I pull the cover after I get her back...
The door tag, under the "Axle" listing. I know C9 is LS, I'll have to look in my owners manual to see what other ones are.
 
  #18  
Old 08-01-2013, 02:21 PM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 16 Likes on 16 Posts
If you have an axle tag there will be an 'L' instead of a '.' in the ratio.
i.e. a LS 4.10 will read 4L10.
 
  #19  
Old 08-01-2013, 04:48 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2
Franklin2 is online now
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 53,885
Likes: 0
Received 1,788 Likes on 1,443 Posts
99% of the rearend tags I have seen have the hole punched right through the first number. So most of the time a 4.10 limited slip will look like L10, a 3.55 limited slip will be L55. You might see part of the first number sometimes.
 
  #20  
Old 08-01-2013, 05:30 PM
bruno2's Avatar
bruno2
bruno2 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broken Arrow , OK
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Jim is correct about how the tag should read 3L50. I doubt the door tag will designate LS or open. They usually just designate ratios and GWR.
 
  #21  
Old 08-01-2013, 06:42 PM
randomguy's Avatar
randomguy
randomguy is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Pendleton, OR
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The door tag just says 39. Where's the axle tag at?
 
  #22  
Old 08-01-2013, 06:54 PM
Rovernut's Avatar
Rovernut
Rovernut is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
According to the shop manual it's indicated by the axle code on the door.
For instance, H9 is a Ford 3.55 3750lb limited slip. But the manual doesn't list my C9 as one of the code options, whereas my owners manual lists the C9 as a Ford 6250lb 3.55 but doesn't indicate LS.
But this does Ford Axle Code Chart .: Articles
 
  #23  
Old 08-01-2013, 07:41 PM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 16 Likes on 16 Posts
  #24  
Old 08-02-2013, 05:30 PM
randomguy's Avatar
randomguy
randomguy is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Pendleton, OR
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Axle tag indicates open rear end... thanks guys for the help!

I'm getting ready to drop it off at the shop. I checked the axle vent tube and could blow air through it but it felt restricted. Pulled the hose and the nipple and cleaned some grease out of it but it wasn't too bad. I ended up replacing the hose.

PB Blaster really helped in removing the vent hose nipple on the axle. Got to love living in a salt free state

I topped the axle off, it was half a quart low... when I get the truck back I'll pull the cover and clean the inside of it out.
 
  #25  
Old 08-02-2013, 06:10 PM
kermmydog's Avatar
kermmydog
kermmydog is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Western Central NV
Posts: 9,177
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Let us know what they end up charging you & what they find. I hate the Sterling 12.5 rear end. The seals are a real problem as far as leaking. DON"T RUN SYNTHETIC OIL in your 86. You'll be doing seals & brakes again.
I replaced seals twice in 60,000 miles on my 86 F250 4x4 & brakes once. One post talked about sleeves. That is a true statement. Good seals are not cheap for this rear end. I hope they give you a 12,000 mile or 1 year warranty. Just my two cents.
Craig
 
  #26  
Old 08-02-2013, 06:33 PM
Rovernut's Avatar
Rovernut
Rovernut is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
When you pick it up ask them what they did about lube in the bearings since it will all be lost when they change the seals. The hubs are lubed from the diff gear oil.
When I did mine I filled the diff, put one wheel on and lowered the opposite side until the brake drum was nearly sitting on the ground and left it like that for about 15-20 min, periodically rotating the hub. The repeated the process for the other side (after refilling the diff when it was level). Once done with the other side I then filled the diff again. I also used Lubriplate 105 assembly grease on the bearings when I installed them.
 
  #27  
Old 08-02-2013, 07:55 PM
randomguy's Avatar
randomguy
randomguy is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Pendleton, OR
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Rovernut
When you pick it up ask them what they did about lube in the bearings since it will all be lost when they change the seals. The hubs are lubed from the diff gear oil.
When I did mine I filled the diff, put one wheel on and lowered the opposite side until the brake drum was nearly sitting on the ground and left it like that for about 15-20 min, periodically rotating the hub. The repeated the process for the other side (after refilling the diff when it was level). Once done with the other side I then filled the diff again. I also used Lubriplate 105 assembly grease on the bearings when I installed them.
I talked to the mechanic and that's pretty much what he said he does. They are going to use the Timken 370047A seals as well.

For the record, the seals in the truck now were put on by Les Schwab in 2005 at 122k(it now has 138k on it)... if anyone can screw up a job it's them.

Hopefully the next time this needs done I'll have a garage and not be in an apartment
 
  #28  
Old 08-02-2013, 08:37 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2
Franklin2 is online now
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 53,885
Likes: 0
Received 1,788 Likes on 1,443 Posts
Those expensive Timken seals fix the leaks. And you can pack the bearings with a little grease to tide them over till the oil makes it's way out to the bearings.
 
  #29  
Old 08-02-2013, 11:35 PM
bruno2's Avatar
bruno2
bruno2 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broken Arrow , OK
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
That's what I would do Franklin. When the bearings get hot and the gear oil makes it way down there they will be fine. The grease wont hurt anything.
 
  #30  
Old 08-03-2013, 08:11 AM
Rovernut's Avatar
Rovernut
Rovernut is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I know a lot of people just use some axle grease, but I use the Lubriplate because not all bearing grease and gear oils are compatible, whereas assembly grease is formulated to mix with oil.
I don't know what, if any, harmful affects occur from using incompatible lubricants but I have the Lubriplate on hand so figure why take a chance. I'd probably even buy some if I didn't have it.
 


Quick Reply: rear hub seal labor on a 10.25" sterling



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:37 AM.