Hi guys,

My truck is up in TN and I noticed the last time I took her out, that whenever I shifted into gear and kept my foot applied on the brake, it would stall out...kind of chugged out.

This will happen from P > D w/brake = dies
R > D w/brake = dies
D > R w brake = dies

I am not really sure where to start looking to help narrow the issue down. Engine seems to run strong, has good acceleration (she aint fast by no means)..no missing, or back firing issues.

Was curious on senior insight. Its something I can deal with because I just let off the brake before she goes into gear, bought my daughter takes the truck out and seems to have to crank it like 3 or three times when pulling out of a parking space.

Hit me up with some ideas fellas (and gals).



93 Ford F150 Super Cab
5.0L V-8 Auto Transmission
2 WD

 

Get ready to spend some bucks. I bet it feels like it's wanting to take off real quick like your driving a standard and letting your foot off the clutch. The clutches in the torque converter are locking up. Have you tried to two-foot it? What happens then?

 

Umm...it takes of normal I would say...does rip and romp rearing to go or anything. Has ok get up when I give it gas after initial roll.

I am sorry I don't know of the two-footin is....

 

On foot on the brake and the other on the gas lightly touching it to keep it from stalling.

 

Also, does it do this all the time? Or just when it's warmed up? Or perhaps only when cold?

 

I think I maybe done that once or twice....I usually just go from gear to gear rather quickly and bump the gas pedal after change.

When I did do that it stayed running and the truck kinda lunged a bit...didn't break ground or roll off, just lurched forward like pre-loading suspension when you drag race.

Didn't notice anything else....

This all came to light when my daughter was taking the truck out. She is used to driving a Scion xB, and as a new driver (17) we tell her how to safely change gears from braking etc.... dunno if that makes since. Her learning on a newer xB vs a 20 year old Ford truck leaves a world of difference between the two

I was able to do some searching on the net, and read something about the transmission filter being loose in the pan causing an issue...does that sound remotely possible?

Thanks for your help thus far...keep suggestions coming

 

I guess it's possible, but I doubt it. When my 97 acted up 5 years ago, seals in some of the clutch packs were leaking when it got warmed up, sending a signal to the torque converter to lock up the clutches. You have a 93, so I assume it's an E4OD tranny. And I bet a high mile truck too. I had a reman installed last fall. Tranny ran around $1800.00 plus labor. These are very expensive to rebuild for some reason.

 

Hi again,

Thanks for the replies..it will give me something more to research until get back up there to the truck.

It seems t do this now when cold and warmed up.

When I bought the truck it has 213k on it I think, its now at 219k. Seller advised that engine was from a newer vehicle, but I couldn't tell ya for sure....shes clean for the most part...has a leak at rear main, but like any good truck, she marks her territory.

I forgot to add that the transmission fluid level was fine....I checked it out after a 10 min drive around town.

I for the life of me can not find that link about the tranny filter causing similar issues by falling down and unseating itself.

I was kinda curious if it could be some type of vacuum leak as well...sorry to say I don't know much about Ford trucks even though I did do a complete tune-up and maintenance on ,y old 91 BKO 4x4.

 

FYI, I too am following this thread for the same problem (At idle and put into drive it feels like I'm letting out the clutch on a standard with my foot on the brake). Although mine is a '94 E-250, I'm about fed up with the E40D and ready to switch to a manual tranny. The E40D has been a lesson learned that has already cost me far too much money. (3rd tranny)

 

Hello..I hope we both get it figured out.

I re-read the post (sorry was up late last night when I posted) and kinda understand about the clutch thing.

If I put it in gear with brake applied, it doesn't feel like I am driving a standard shift (ie letting the clutch out slowly). If it stays running between shifts, she stays put.

Maybe some additional posts will come our way........

 

I had a 1986 F150, 5.0 L, auto tranny that would die when I drove to work, stopped, put it in reverse and backed into a parking spot. It would also stumble or idle rough when stopped at a light, but not all the time. (it usually did it when the engine was warmed up). The problem was the gasket between the fuel injection "plenum" and the intake manifold. The gasket is almost as long as from the front to the back of the intake manifold and about 5 inches wide. It is separated into 8 equal sections ( it's a rectangle with cross gaskets to divide it into the 8 sections. The dividing gaskets are about 1/4 inch wide and these dividing gaskets would leak between cylinders or ports in the intake and fuel injection plenum. I bought the truck new in 86 and the problem started when it was less than 1 year old. The Ford house couldn't figure it out. After the warranty ran out I took it to an independent shop and they knew what it was and fixed it. After about another 70K miles it started the same thing and I replaced the gasket myself. (you need a special long 50 Torkx extension to get a security bolt on the passenger side of the engine, you can't just buy a short one to go on ta 3/8 extension because where the extension and the 50 Torkx join is too wide th fit in the space where you need to get) I don't know if your year model has the same fuel injection set up as an 86 & 87 has but if it does I would replace this gasket.
RN

 

This is all good info....

I think when I am back that ways, I will be tearing into the top end to and do gaskets as prev. maint. The truck sits for the most part and is only driven about 500 miles a year.

On a side note... since you mentioned gaskets, I pulled the plenum off my old BKO and cleaned the TB and would you believe the previous owner used a old Bud Light 12 pack (cardboard box) to make gaskets...LOL

My old BKO, not to get off the meaning of this thread developed a high pitched whine or squeal....started pulling stuff apart and there was the old home made gaskets.

 

I have a 1991 F-150 and the e4od did the same thing wanting to die when put into reverse or drive if you held the brakes. Turns out my torque converter was locked up on the shaft it slids in on. You can test for the torque converter locked up by jacking the rea end up and shifting into reverse with no brake applied if it does not die apply brake and see what happens. If it dies almost positive its a locked up converter. Got this method on here from another post. Works perfectly. Hope you get it fixed soon.

 

Check your transmission fluid, an e4od will do this if fluid level is low.It uses pressure to hold the converter in the unlocked position.Also inspect the wiring harness from the tranny for chaffing all it takes is a small spot on the purple and orange converter lockup wire shorting to ground and this will occur.

 

Testing Torque Converter Lockup Actuation:

On the right hand side of the transmission is a plug that connects to the valve body in the transmission. Disconnect it at the plug and test the pin for the purple/yellow for ground on the ECM side. If you get ground with the key off, you have a short somewhere between the plug and the ECM.

If it is open (not grounded), turn the key on and then check for ground again. If it is grounded, the ECM is bad. If not, install a switch to ground, connected inline of the purple/yellow wire. You can connect it to the purple/yellow wire at the connection just beneath the master cylinder. Connect it in such a way that switching the switch to "on" will ground the circuit. After installation, turn the key to "on" with the ground switch in the "off" position, you will need an assistant to perform this test. With the key on, and engine off, move underneath the transmission and listen for a "click" in the transmission oil pan. Have an assistant cycle the switch and listen for the click. If the click is present, the problem is most likely one of three things.

1. Cracked converter clutch apply piston.
2. Inadequate pump supply pressure due to an internal leak, worn pump gears or excessive transmission cooling causing a pressure drop.
3. Clogged ports in transmission.

The lockup action of the converter is operated by a solenoid in the valve body that is constantly energized by VPWR and is actuated by closing the circuit on the ground side by the ECM.