well the front ones are not so good, but the back ones came out fine, where would I find the hardware if i needed it? and isnt the nut on the bottom all part of the rubber bushing, or is that supposed come apart?

 

Yeah I have a question about the rust shield too. I would like to spray the stuff onto my frame and chassis but POR15 says you need to use THEIR thinner and solvent to spray their product. I think they say nothing else will cut the stuff for cleanup. What is required for cleanup on the Rust Shield you used? Can use use regular old acetone or mineral spirits? I like the POR15 I have used and it holds up well, but doggone is that stuff expensive, let alone if I have to buy two other parts of their product line to thin and clean the stuff up.

 

I think LMC or Jeff's Bronco Graveyard would be good places to start looking for the hardware.

JBG

LMC

Like I said....pricy stuff.

Are you talking specifically about the bed bolts or the cab bolts?

 

I was talking about the cab bolts, though I will need bed bolts as well.

and yes, those are expensive. So the sleeve/retainers comes out of the rubber bushing and I need to reuse those. the rear ones should be good, I l have to find front ones though

 

That's the way it looks to me. I honestly don't remember how they come apart. It's been a year or more since I took one apart.

 

Talking about ES bushings specially about the cab ones, I have read that they are not recommended because the ride gets worst, IDK any comments?

 

The ES poly bushings are not as soft as the oem rubber ones, so the ride is a little stiffer, though i have never ridden in a truck with them, so idk

 

Me and three other guys moved the frame once, and it was all we could handle. I've moved it once since then, but I used a tractor with a front loader. I put the Rust Shield in a paint gun and sprayed two coats on, then sprayed two coats of semi gloss black enamel over it. You can brush it on too though.The frame has sat outside all winter up on horses, and I don't see any signs of rust on it yet, but if I had some of the other parts out of my shop, I would have kept it inside.

 

What did you use to clean up the spray gun when you were done with the rust shield?

 

Enamel reducer. I should have mentioned that you can't spray anything except an enamel over the Rust Shield because it is enamel based. You can't spray lacquer or anything else over it.

 

I plan in just brushing mine on, POR15 is supposed to be some nasty stuff to spray, and the extra POR15 products required makes it that much more expensive.

Bill, i was looking through your thread, haven't finished yet, but how is your low dollar e fuel setup working out, still no problems with the pump/regulator ?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-tunes-12.html

 

So far so good! The gauge on the regulator is kinda cheesy, but I plan on replacing it with a better quality fluid filled gauge later on. But the system seems to working good.......knock on wood LOL!

Here is a link to my crew cab project. You'll feel a lot better about yours when you see what I started with! LOL! https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...b-project.html

 

You did the same thing, nice thanks for the link, I'l sure be busy at work tomorrow now!
I bet that overhead crane was easier to use than 4 ladders and lumber haha

 

It sure was! I've got a 30' steel beam with trollies on it in my shop at home. I could have pulled the cab off with those, but I figured the cranes at work would be soooo much nicer!

 

Bill, and anyone else with rust shield experience, how does it work over already painted surfaces. and what kind of prep is required, on their website, there is little info. I was thinking about using some grey rustshield for the underside of the cab/bed and maybe even getting some white for the rad support, or maybe il por15 that and topcoat it white, it is starting to rust, and I don't think our rust free rad supports exist any more, at least one that are for sale.