F2 F3 rear drum removal
#1
F2 F3 rear drum removal
I'm trying to remove the rear drums on an F2 and ran into an issue. I have removed all three screws and have released the brake shoes. However, I cannot remove the drum. It seems like it's getting stuck on the housing protruding from the drum.
Does this housing need to be removed in order to remove the drum?
I tried unbolting all of the bolts holding the front plate onto the housing, but only one came out fully. I can only remove the nut from the others. There's a slot in the bolt after the nut is removed, but I can't get the bolt to budge, even after heat and penetrant.
I'd like to get these drums removed tomorrow, so any help is greatly appreciated.
Does this housing need to be removed in order to remove the drum?
I tried unbolting all of the bolts holding the front plate onto the housing, but only one came out fully. I can only remove the nut from the others. There's a slot in the bolt after the nut is removed, but I can't get the bolt to budge, even after heat and penetrant.
I'd like to get these drums removed tomorrow, so any help is greatly appreciated.
#2
Ilya, I took mine apart. Remove the nuts/studs on the end of the axle. Then the cap on the end comes out, thats part of the axle shaft. Once the axleshaft is out, there is a sheetmetal lock for the nut inside. It will be similar to a front spindle only hollow. Once the locktab,outer and inner nut, are off, the drum will slide off along with the hub.
I have also used an oxy/acetylene torch to heat them where the drum and hub circle is. I heat them till you here them "tink" like a hot exhaust cooling down.
then light sharp blows with a 1lb hammer. they usually come loose.
I have also used an oxy/acetylene torch to heat them where the drum and hub circle is. I heat them till you here them "tink" like a hot exhaust cooling down.
then light sharp blows with a 1lb hammer. they usually come loose.
#3
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#5
I get those nuts off and spray penetrant in around the studs, it helps release those cone washers from the studs. Again, that end cap is not a cap. It's the end of the axle. Once the nuts are all off, I use a thick flat tool like a wood chisel to separate the axle from the hub. They can be stubborn for sure.
edit: mapp gas might do it too. but it will take more time.
Is this a truck of yours? parts truck?
edit: mapp gas might do it too. but it will take more time.
Is this a truck of yours? parts truck?
#7
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Saskatoon SK Canada
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Place the round end of a ball-peen hammer against the drum between the lugs, then hit the big end with a BFH, don't be afraid to set your purse down and hit it hard over and over and over. Just mind the lug studs. Repeat in an alternating pattern between all the lugs. It will eventually pop it loose. I use this technique on drum brakes old and new, I also use it on ball joints and TREs. Putting a ballpeen in there makes a shockwave of sorts that really knocks things loose, and doesn't dent the drum like hitting it directly.
#15
Ilya, you do have to give them a good smack between each stude. Also tap them along the back as you're spinning the drum. If you have a Oxy/acetylene torch handy heat the area right around the hub opening. I usually takes a combination of things to get them off. Like I said, there very little gap. If the drums spin you are more that half the way the there.