Ok here is the short version
In 3-6 years my wife and I are planning to move to Alaska as already known I currently own an 86 f250 xlt 4x4 ext. cab with non original 6.9 in it... I still have the original engine from the truck and still have plans to rebuild it!

Plans are
.30 over
Torque cam
Bigger valves
Stage 1 injectors
Turbo calibrated stage 1 injection pump
Either hypermax turbo kit or one from typefour
Port and polish everything including combustion chamber on cylinder head
Have pistons shaved down .10
I have been thinking of ways to increase oil capacity by about 1-1 1/2 gallons
Double filtration for engine and turbo
E-fan conversion
3G alternator
And full restoration

Picking up an 89 f350 cc lb 4x2 e4od
Plans for it is to take a built same as above 6.9 and drop it in.
Find 4x4 e4od with transfer case have trans built install extra trans coolers (going to install electric valve to make a trans heater for extreme cold)

Anyway other than I plan on installing for extreme cold weather to keep these trucks on the road during -30 and bellow
For shutdown time (sitting at home)
I plan on installing
1)Extra block heater into other side of block
2) oil heater in pan and oil heater in e4od (idk where yet)
3) coolant circulater in radiater hose
4) some kind of heater for fuel filter (probably stick on)


For running conditions
1) a newer better designed in line fuel heater
2) some kind of under carriage tarp to keep snow from engine compartment and help hold heat
3) custom made grill cover to block the radiator

Any other suggestions? This is just what I have come up with so far I am open to suggestions good or bad! But like stated the move will be in 3-6 years

O! Almost forgot on the trip to Alaska the 86 with t19 (hopefully) zf6 by that time will be pulling a 46 foot enclosed gooseneck with 1-2 cars plus household items in it for almost 4,000 miles!

 

That may be overkill. In -20 in Idaho the stock block heater on my 7.3 worked just fine. If you're really worried about keeping the fuel warm, you could take a page from the veggie burning crowd and use a coolant heat exchanger to warm the circulating fuel.
I would add a stick-on heater under the tank, the filter should be warmed decently by being over the warm engine.

 

I only think about it like that because around Fairbanks it has hit -60 not including windchill

 

-15 is the coldest I've seen with my truck, and it will start right up with the factory block heater. However I don't think the add ons you are suggesting would be too overkill - everything helps in the bitter cold.

I may have the worst luck with mechanical fuel pumps, but I do not think they are capable of pumping in the cold. When it drops below about 20 mine cannot maintain fuel pressure. The truck runs fine, even with the fuel pressure gauge reading zero (until I really hammer it then I can feel it stumble), you'd likely never know anything was wrong without the gauge. I've had carter, delphi, and airtex pumps on it and all have been the same - pathetic in the cold. I would highly recommend an electric fuel pump.

 

E-pump is on the list for the 89 it's already on the 86 I like the coolant heat exchange idea for the fuel and the under tank heater... The coolant heat exchange is probably what I will use to help keep the trans on the 89 warm... I don't think the 86 needs it even if it has a 6 speed in it

 

I run mine in our regularly -40 weather, I'd have to say the best mods I have that helped make no-trouble starts:

1) All the best battery mods: 2/0 welding cable positive leads, full soldered lugs, corrosion preventative on + and - side contacts (bad connection has screwed me before), good batteries

2) 0W40 engine oil - makes an AMAZING difference in cranking speed in the cold - I am sure this has saved me before

3) ZeroStart Tank Type engine heater - Circulates coolant through the heater, keeping more of the block warm (including the cab heater) than conventional block heater

4) Switch to disable GPs - In the event of the worst, so you can use ether with reduced risk of engine damage

I also use battery warmers so as to reduce strain on the batteries when starting in the mornings. My next improvement is to add a better alternator to help recharge to the best capacity after short trips - you use a lot of battery glowing and cranking cold oil. I am planning on the PA Performance 200A model (charges well at low RPMs)

 

All good ideas,,,fuel additives will help,,CFFF,,(cold fuel flow factor)full syn in tranny and rear ends,,power stroke fiiter is larger,,5-40 moble1 truck oil..proper warm up before driving,,,should be just fine,,a garage would be sweet...

 

NorthernDiesel, do you run at -40 F with a factory style lift pump? I'm not doubting you just curious - I haven't been able to keep sufficient fuel pressure below about 10 F with multiple different lift pumps. I know it's not gelled, I blend it myself and run my VW TDI on the same stuff, coldest we've had is -15 but the TDI started with no block heater and ran fine.

 

What year TDI do you have? depending on there year it could be common rail injection which makes a huge difference. Just the direct injection alone makes a big difference in COLD starting. My mech lift pump would keep pressure under throttle when it was warm out. i think it is just the way those pumps are.

 

@speedwrench - 2nd on that big Pstroke filter, and synthetic in the diffs, and the warm up... I warm up until high idle kicks off, then you know you're at operating temp.

@TW yep factory original lift pump AFAIK, no problems. Don't know where you are but our diesel is the winter type all year round up where I am.

@94 strongly agree; at work we have early 90s to 2012 toyota land cruiser 70 series, staight 6 naturally aspirated mech injection, no fancy oils, one battery, no block heaters but they're DI, and they start after a -40 night on surface with less that 10 revolutions on the starter.

Don't gun me down for this but the only truck I'd trade my IDI for is one of those 70 series cruisers... the definition of a beast of a truck.

I also have a nice, dual bay, heated garage, perfect for parking an IDI in on winter nights... if it weren't full of other projects...

 

Get your self a heavy duty electric T connector, and get a semi truck inline heater, 3000 watts, plus your block heater!


That's what I have on my 7.3


1-2 hours, in -10*F weather, and she'll fire right up like in summer! Sometimes the high idle didn't even come on!


Be careful though, you will melt those electric T's. I had to get new ones every year.



Other than that, 8 new glow plugs, fresh tune up, good timing, new starter, batteries and cables, and no reason in hell she won't start!



The coldest i've ever had to start my 400k van at was around 5*F, everything in the starting system is new except the cables, and she fired up no problem! No block heater as I can't use it (older 85 block, with the cracking problem).

 

This is a cool thread.

 

From Wikipedia:
The 70 series was only sold in small numbers in the North American market. For 1984–1986 (model years 1985–1986), the BJ70 was sold in small numbers in Canada. All were identically equipped, aside from interior, and exterior colour. The only other variation was, in 1985 they had a 12-volt electronic system. In 1985 (for the 1986 model year), Toyota opted for a 24-volt system. The HZJ79 cab and chassis is still available in Canada, although in very limited quantities. Further restrictions are that they are only accessible to the mining industry, and only through one Toyota dealer in Saskatchewan. The 70 series was not sold in the US.

Hard to come by in Canada and even harder in the US.

 

An idea that has floated around my head might of even posted once before (can't remember) but what about a air grid heater like a cummins? Put it on a relay or a momentary switch or push button like glow plugs... Just an idea

 

Yaa... it's a little sad... the ones we bring in for the mine cost us $80,000 for the base model. The contractor brings them direct from Japan, japanese writing on the fuel cap included. Left-hand-drive though, a little odd that they make LHD for such a small market.

As for the cold stuff, I also second IDIDieselJohn's correct timing bit, that's pretty critical. Not enough advance and you won't build up the heat in the cylinders. Make sure the cold timing and throttle advance are working the way they should.