I rebuilt a 4.9 engine for my 1981 f150 out of a 1986 truck, the engine is in now and running like a raped ape , accept for one lifter that i have tapping, its got about 500 miles on it now and its still tapping away, i never got new rockers because the ones i ordered ended up not being right, my head uses a rocker that my dad discribes as being the same style as the stock small block v-8s, using a bolt to tightly fasten down a block that the rocker pivots on, now everything a have found so far for the 300's has been like the ones i ordered through summit racing, they are a style that uses a stud in the head and a nut fastens the rocker down, i need the bolt style and i cant find them!, im hoping new rockers will solve the lifter issue, any info or thoughts? thanks!

 

How will a new rocker solve a lifter problem?

 

ive heard if my clearances are bad on my pushrods/lifters/rockers it can cause the lifter to make noise, so im thinking i might have a worn rocker because i never replaced them, what would you suggest?, initially i was looking into a new lifter but clifford performance said try a different oil and a few other people i have talked to say it shouldn't be a lifter issue

 

Ford the valve train parts for your 86 4.9L Head.

Valvetrain Parts | O'Reilly Auto Parts

If you click on the various parts you will find, fulcrum, etc..and it will show you all you need to replace if you choose.

If your tolerances for pushrod length are almost out of service range for standard use (head gasket thickness, pivot wear, rocker wear etc) new parts MAY help tighten up the adjustment some allowing for more compression of the lifter so as to quieten it a little..
There is some allowance for wear not much though, so they also offered longer push-rods as a way of tightening it up some more and eliminating the noise Get up to speed with the methods for setting these valves and you'll be golden..

Longer pushods/shims/new parts..may accomplish the same purpose...do a little reading...in my case I actually did a little careful grinding to the pivot base to bring it into spec on one valve rather than use a longer push-rod. (This is NOT a recommendation to do that).

 

This is the set that I ordered and used on mine. I've been very happy with it, especially for the price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-300-CID-4-9L-Complete-Rocker-Arm-Kit-NEW-/170224141902?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27a226464e&vxp=mtr

 

I'll have to taker a look at that. I really should break down and order some new for the new long block I'm building. AB, did these parts allow for a simple "bolt down and done" install with stock push-rods for your use?

 

Yes. It was incredibly simple. No rotating, no TDC checking, just front to back, torque to 17 - 23 ft/lbs. All the push rods were stock.
I even went back over and checked them all with a feeler gauge to check for proper length.

Granted, my head and block weren't shaved or anything, so they were all stock too. Some milling might require shorter push rods.

 

Great testimonial.