I'm such a hypocrite...
#1
I'm such a hypocrite...
Well... The bug bit... After saying I wanted a simple, non-computer, carbureted, C6 truck I've already decided to use a computer I built to convert to EFI and run an E4OD with an aftermarket controller.
Now I've been playing with Arduino and I'm thinking about replacing the ammeter with a small LCD display for a digital volt gauge at a minimum. Since it's Arduino based I can really have anything display there... Small color TFT displays are even doable...
Arduino can monitor inputs and trigger 'things' at various thresholds. For example a warning buzzer on low oil pressure or high coolant temp.
Now I've learned there's a small computer called a Rasbery Pi. It runs linux... One's on the way to see if I can run the tuner software for my EFI computer... That would give me full digital dash abilities plus more...
Just for an idea...
So for someone who didn't want any computers... I'm possibly going to have the most technologically advanced 86 F250 out there...
Now I've been playing with Arduino and I'm thinking about replacing the ammeter with a small LCD display for a digital volt gauge at a minimum. Since it's Arduino based I can really have anything display there... Small color TFT displays are even doable...
Arduino can monitor inputs and trigger 'things' at various thresholds. For example a warning buzzer on low oil pressure or high coolant temp.
Now I've learned there's a small computer called a Rasbery Pi. It runs linux... One's on the way to see if I can run the tuner software for my EFI computer... That would give me full digital dash abilities plus more...
Just for an idea...
So for someone who didn't want any computers... I'm possibly going to have the most technologically advanced 86 F250 out there...
#2
Computers are not bad, it's the people who program them. I am getting to where I hate the Ford EFI, it's just too over-engineered and prone to aggravating little failures. If I were you I would look at doing a Mega-squirt system if you are thinking about EFI, and forget the Ford computer. Use some of the Ford components but not the computer and it's software.
#3
If you do go the aftermarket EFI setup, best get two of the ECU's. If it dies, you will plug the other one in and go on. I just talked to a firend's friend who did the Mega squrt EFI on his Honda ricer car. It failed and left him dead on the road for a few weeks before he could get the replacemant programmed and installed....
I had the factory ECU fail once(smoked the cab out). Lucky I had a 2nd one under the seat even thoug it was for a 302 but it ran the 300 I6 enough to get home. I found out the injector driver's burnt up taking the PC board with them, no fix for that dammage. At least a trip to the junkyard I got two more ECU's.
I had the factory ECU fail once(smoked the cab out). Lucky I had a 2nd one under the seat even thoug it was for a 302 but it ran the 300 I6 enough to get home. I found out the injector driver's burnt up taking the PC board with them, no fix for that dammage. At least a trip to the junkyard I got two more ECU's.
#5
The one thing that bothers me about aftermarket ECUs, like Megasquirt is that even though the ECU may be of great quality, putting together sogtware that will operate through the countless different conditions that a street driven vehicle needs to cope with seems like a P.I.T.A. I've known people that have done this and they seems to spend all their time fiddling with the software to get the bugs out, playing a game of whack-a-mole with inputs and outputs. There's a reason why major manufactures have to spend so much in development...
#6
I have a built and fully tested MegaSquirt 3... It was for a Turbo Dodge project that was still born using a 2.4L DOHC SRT-4 type motor. So I have to make a couple small changes. I have to change the IAC circuit, easy enough. I also have to change the ignition circuit but first I need to decide on TFI or EIDS-8. I really want to go EIDS-8 but I have to mount a trigger wheel first. Now that I'm back from vacation and things are calming down I'm hoping to make some progress in getting that mocked up.
I just kept wanting finer and finer control over spark/fuel and kept bashing my head against the EFI wall. Finally I realized that I have most of the parts to do it and once I gave up and decided to run the E4OD with a Baumann controller it was only inevitable. Also, I still have the turbo from the Dodge project and it would do well efficiency wise around 10psi... That's still in the maybe column but EFI is the only real practical way to make that happen.
Moving on... One of my upgrades is relays for the headlights. I've heard that after you do that there's not enough current flowing through the dash to make the ammeter work. In my search for something to do I stumbled upon Arduino and the possibilities of powering a small LCD display and that's how the Arduino got added to the list.
Lastly, there's some development work on tuner/dashboard software that will run on the Raspberry Pi... So I'm going to be looking into that too... There are many other possibilities there too like a backup camera...
Both Raspberry Pi and Arduino have development on communicating via the CAN bus which MS3 has... So there are options there for simply displaying engine information.
Being the tech geek that I am, once I let my guard down the ideas just kept coming.
Right now the E4OD and Baumann controller are in. The MS3 is in. I hope to answer the ignition question in the next couple of weeks. I'm pushing for EIDS-8. The Turbo is still on the maybe list, probably after the truck is together and running. The Arduino and Raspberry Pi are still in development - it's been a LONG time since I've done any programming... Lots of dusty cobwebs to clean out. But I'm pushing for a simple Arduino multi-gauge in place of the Ammeter.
Eddie, the thought crossed my mind to have a backup, and I probably will. I'll have the maps backed up so I can quickly load them into another unit. It will just come down to having to build it. I could buy a pre-made one but I'd still have to add the EIDS-8 stuff and likely the IAC control. Not sure what's out there in canned form.
Gary, how about MegaSquirt with a TBI to replace your carb?
I just kept wanting finer and finer control over spark/fuel and kept bashing my head against the EFI wall. Finally I realized that I have most of the parts to do it and once I gave up and decided to run the E4OD with a Baumann controller it was only inevitable. Also, I still have the turbo from the Dodge project and it would do well efficiency wise around 10psi... That's still in the maybe column but EFI is the only real practical way to make that happen.
Moving on... One of my upgrades is relays for the headlights. I've heard that after you do that there's not enough current flowing through the dash to make the ammeter work. In my search for something to do I stumbled upon Arduino and the possibilities of powering a small LCD display and that's how the Arduino got added to the list.
Lastly, there's some development work on tuner/dashboard software that will run on the Raspberry Pi... So I'm going to be looking into that too... There are many other possibilities there too like a backup camera...
Both Raspberry Pi and Arduino have development on communicating via the CAN bus which MS3 has... So there are options there for simply displaying engine information.
Being the tech geek that I am, once I let my guard down the ideas just kept coming.
Right now the E4OD and Baumann controller are in. The MS3 is in. I hope to answer the ignition question in the next couple of weeks. I'm pushing for EIDS-8. The Turbo is still on the maybe list, probably after the truck is together and running. The Arduino and Raspberry Pi are still in development - it's been a LONG time since I've done any programming... Lots of dusty cobwebs to clean out. But I'm pushing for a simple Arduino multi-gauge in place of the Ammeter.
Eddie, the thought crossed my mind to have a backup, and I probably will. I'll have the maps backed up so I can quickly load them into another unit. It will just come down to having to build it. I could buy a pre-made one but I'd still have to add the EIDS-8 stuff and likely the IAC control. Not sure what's out there in canned form.
Gary, how about MegaSquirt with a TBI to replace your carb?
#7
The one thing that bothers me about aftermarket ECUs, like Megasquirt is that even though the ECU may be of great quality, putting together sogtware that will operate through the countless different conditions that a street driven vehicle needs to cope with seems like a P.I.T.A. I've known people that have done this and they seems to spend all their time fiddling with the software to get the bugs out, playing a game of whack-a-mole with inputs and outputs. There's a reason why major manufactures have to spend so much in development...
If I was swapping in a stock motor then I'd run stock electronics and be done. That's not in my nature - hell, despite adamantly stating I wasn't, my 05 Mustang GT started getting bolt-ons 24hrs after I bought it... Everything I own has been tweaked... You should see my computer - 2 video cards, water cooling, overclocked, Linux OS....
I'm going to run a 396ci stroker based off a 95 351w roller block with some 190cc heads and a small cam. I've got the GT40 style intake for it. I'm not sure a stock computer would run that. So I'd be looking at a MAF swap and/or a tunner program like Quarterhorse or similar and then I'm tuning...
Or I take the MS and tune that...
It's not for everyone, I understand that, so I'm not advocating that every go out and buy one. I accept that I may have some real head scratchers ahead of me but what fun is life without challenges?
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#8
I'll be watching this as well - I've started fiddling with an Arduino as a way to add a digital tach to my decidedly non-digital '80 F-150. That project is on the back burner, though, as I'm in the process of turning my Raspberry Pi into a wi-fi enabled fireworks launch controller. Once that project is done (no later than July 3!) I'll be back to work on the Arduino.
Please keep us posted.
Please keep us posted.
#9
Cool project, David. But, as I said in the WHYDTYTT thread, don't forget that you have the input from the current shunt right there in the cluster so you could still display current and alarm if it goes negative. That would catch a failing alternator immediately.
As for TBI, with my mill why not tap the Edelbrock manifold for injectors?
As for TBI, with my mill why not tap the Edelbrock manifold for injectors?
#10
TBI is just an easy solution for someone wanting more of a bolt on upgrade.
I never thought about picking up the alternator shut to grab current. The resolution on the Arduino should be fine enough to get some usable data to display. I was going to link the oil pressure to the volts. So if there is oil pressure and less than say 13v then sound the alarm. Seems easier than linking to current to catch a failed alternator.
#11
I like the way you think...
TBI is just an easy solution for someone wanting more of a bolt on upgrade.
I never thought about picking up the alternator shut to grab current. The resolution on the Arduino should be fine enough to get some usable data to display. I was going to link the oil pressure to the volts. So if there is oil pressure and less than say 13v then sound the alarm. Seems easier than linking to current to catch a failed alternator.
TBI is just an easy solution for someone wanting more of a bolt on upgrade.
I never thought about picking up the alternator shut to grab current. The resolution on the Arduino should be fine enough to get some usable data to display. I was going to link the oil pressure to the volts. So if there is oil pressure and less than say 13v then sound the alarm. Seems easier than linking to current to catch a failed alternator.
#12
I never thought about picking up the alternator shut to grab current. The resolution on the Arduino should be fine enough to get some usable data to display. I was going to link the oil pressure to the volts. So if there is oil pressure and less than say 13v then sound the alarm. Seems easier than linking to current to catch a failed alternator.
Why mess with current? Just monitor the voltage and if it's lower than 11.9V(or what ever set point) then sound the alarm. As for the oil sender, use it as a voltage divider and setup the same way as for voltage detection.
I have though about MS or somthing equivlient to tune for better MPG. Heck I even found some analog EFI info(Bosch analog efi) and though that would be intresting to try. Just using some transistors, resistors and capacitors with pots to adjust the injection timing.
#14
Progress on the digital gauge front...
I'm actually reading the 5v feed from the Arduino but I've scaled it from 0-14v. I'm running it thought a potentiometer to vary the output from 5v-0v, which again is scaled to read 14v-0v on the display because ultimately that's what I'll be reading. Once in the car I'll have to use a voltage divider to drop the voltage down to the 0-5v that Arduino can accept.
I'm actually reading the 5v feed from the Arduino but I've scaled it from 0-14v. I'm running it thought a potentiometer to vary the output from 5v-0v, which again is scaled to read 14v-0v on the display because ultimately that's what I'll be reading. Once in the car I'll have to use a voltage divider to drop the voltage down to the 0-5v that Arduino can accept.
#15