1979 Drag Truck
#1
#2
460 would be more power for the same price as your putting into this build. If you want to go stick, then find a car 4 speed like a muncie or t10 and see if it will bolt to the big block bell housing. For simplicty you could go C6 with a full manual valve body and a higher stall converter.
Stick would be cool factor but I think overall you'd be fast with a C6 in this situation.
Stick would be cool factor but I think overall you'd be fast with a C6 in this situation.
#4
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It will work but your handling will be worse and also you have double the cost of re gearing. I tried it with a f250 4x4 and a 460 but it just takes too much horsepower. You need a ton of low end torque to make a heavy truck launch like a sports car. I recommend a 460 and even stroke it to a 500+" and build it to pull HARD from 2000 to 6000+, maybe even shoot for 6500. Run a stall converter in the 2800 range or more for a heavy truck.
#6
Warhorse is right. The 4x4 will rob a bunch of hp. It can be done though, look at the typhoon and cyclone. They are very fat and the are awd, not quite like 4wd but close
I am building a 79 shortbox F100 right now with a 521 (625 - 650 hp) followed by a C6 and a 9" with 3.73 gears and an Arburn LS unit. I plan on investing in a good set of DOT drag radials that I can air down to about 12lbs.
I am building a 79 shortbox F100 right now with a 521 (625 - 650 hp) followed by a C6 and a 9" with 3.73 gears and an Arburn LS unit. I plan on investing in a good set of DOT drag radials that I can air down to about 12lbs.
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I would say you are onto something. Just remember that a bigger displacement engine is harder to feed. It is really hard to find headers for a 4x4 that will really breath with a big stroker. I am battling that right now. I have a 545 with A429 heads and finding cobrajet headers for a 4x4 truck isn't easy. I found some that mad dog makes, I think they are a decent header. You will run into the same problem. L&L headers are all 1 3/4" tubes I believe, and trying to push them much past 6000 is a pipe dream. They are a very nice product, I sure wish they made a 2" header though.
Just things to remember for your build. I would shoot for mad dog headers 2" primaries 10:1 or more, a cam that is at least 290ish advertised duration and atleast .600 lift. Ruin more exhaust duration, like 290/295. Time it straight up.
Size, well, just remember that as the dispalcement goes up, the power band shifts downward through the RPM range, provisions have to be made to feed it. especially to turn over 6000. It can be done, big valves, big ports, good heads. It might pay to run the big valve covers and a stud girdle for that kind of RPM. Good luck.
Just things to remember for your build. I would shoot for mad dog headers 2" primaries 10:1 or more, a cam that is at least 290ish advertised duration and atleast .600 lift. Ruin more exhaust duration, like 290/295. Time it straight up.
Size, well, just remember that as the dispalcement goes up, the power band shifts downward through the RPM range, provisions have to be made to feed it. especially to turn over 6000. It can be done, big valves, big ports, good heads. It might pay to run the big valve covers and a stud girdle for that kind of RPM. Good luck.
#12
I wonder if you can buy just a gear box. No shifting and less weight. I'm not sure if anyone makes one though.
#13
#14
Actually you can! I forget the company but it's basically based off of a monster truck case. Very strong and quick change gears. Have you thought about adding a power adder? Blower would give you instant off throttle torque and just keeps pulling, I'm also a fan of turbo'd engines due to the fact I've got an Outlaw 10.5 grand national but If you built it to run nitrous you could have a tame enough engine for the street and the have a fun button.
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father6
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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07-10-2015 07:40 PM