Ok I fixed the TPS and cleaned the IAC.. got my 111 code for KOEO..

Idle is about 900 rpm when warm in Park.. about 800 when in D/R..

So that is FIXED in my book and the truck is running great on the local highway I've done like 20 miles with no issues..

I drove the next day after the fixes above about 1/4 mile to get air in the tires and got a CEL..

Came back and ran the KOER and got:

311 Thermactor air system/fault during engine run self test..
332 Insufficient EGR flow detected

I have the original (I think EGR valve on the truck)..

Here is a picture of mine.. mine has the 'window' so you can see the actuator and bladder.



With the engine on I lifted the metal trim piece inside the window and the motor started to die out..

I checked the EGR vac solenoid and can't feel any vacuum on either line at idle.. I appear to have odd colors of green/white..



I see this mess of vac lines going up behind the motor.. (going to spray down tomorrow with carb cleaner to see if I got any leaks..)



I did check my vacuum reservoir can lines red/black.. and only the red had vacuum.. which I guess is correct..

Thinking the EGR Vac Solenoid or the EGR Valve Position Sensor.. both parts are like $30 each.. but I want to be sure I'm not chasing up the wrong tree..

Can I take a vacuum line from the manifold and just hook it to the EGR valve and see if it opens up to test that??

Help really needed.. I need to clear these codes to get initial NJ inspection.. so the darn CEL is not going to let that happen..

 

There is absolutely no rhyme nor reason to the opening and closing of the EGR valve and the ECM makes the determination without any system prerequisites or any driver input so no finding vacuum at the EGR/EVP during engine operation is not a fool-proof method of determining the problem.

Code 311 - Thermactor system inoperative (bank 1).

This is the root of your problem. Code 332 is merely a result of the computer attempting to resolve the problem wherein it is not getting sufficient fresh air from the Thermactor system. You need to get all of the air that is supposed to be going through the system operating properly before you can assume that the system cannot control the flow of it.

Troubleshooting Code 311:

Verify that the vacuum lines running to and from the diverter valve (behind the passenger side cylinder head) and the TAB and TAD solenoids are in place, intact, and connected correctly. The under-hood diagram should delineate the vacuum line routing.

If all of the vacuum lines check out, make certain the Thermactor plumbing between the air injection pump, the diverter valve, the check valve in the crossover tube at the back of the engine, and the check valve atop the air injection tube running down to the catalytic converter.

If the plumbing checks out, your last recourse is to performa a couple of rather tedious tests to verify the proper operation of the TAB (Thermactor Air By-Pass) and TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) solenoids. If you get to that point, let me know. I can detail the procedures.

 

Ok @ 9:50am EST.. I just tested the EVP (on top of the EGR valve).. volts on cable 5.04VDC.. Sig Rtn - EVP was 628 ohms (supposed to be less than 100), VRef - EVP is 3980 ohms (supposed to be over 5000).. both ohm readings are not to spec..

I resprayed everything again with carb cleaner.. the fittings and connection in the back as well.. no change in RPM..

Is it safe/ok to loop the red (which has vacuum) on the vacuum cannister to pipe vacuum into the black vac line using a jumper vacuum line?? This would be at idle..

I'd like to see if things get vacuum near the vac solenoid and TAB/TAD solenoids and spray them at the same time to check for leaks..

 

I removed the Vac Res Cannister.. and granted both bolts broke..

It kinda popped in my hand and ended up like this.. it may have been leaking underneath.. maybe the carb cleaner didn't catch it.. the world may never know..



So now I have to hunt something down for this.. The truck still seems to run just fine without it..

I was able to get a vacuum line to the EGR valve (used one from the heater door T and swung it around to the EGR valve.. it opened up and the truck died.. so the EGR valve itself seems good..

 

Another update.. I ran a jumper vacuum tube from red to black (where the can would be)..

And in testing I got vacuum 'pull' thru the lines and to the EGR solenoid 'white' (on mine) line which I hadn't had before with the can on..

Did a short drive up in the back 'truckers lot' and got no CEL.. truck ran just fine and accelerated just fine too..

Came back and did KOER and got only 538 Invalid Cylinder Balance Test..

I ran it twice to be sure..

No other codes.. hoping it was just the Vacuum Reservoir Canister causing no vacuum to the TAB/TAD/EGR solenoids which I think would throw the codes..

Seems like it..

Will further test when I get the brand new OEM canister in.. $49 on Ebay..

Keep in mind this truck had no registration since 2006 and was only use briefly here and there on a farm and mostly sat..

Stay tuned and pray for me and 'Angus' (like AC/DC)..

 

Of course, I guess it matters where you as to what condition they're in. I had to get one because I broke the plastic hose connectors.

If you have a local boneyard you might get away cheaper than 50 bucks. I painted mine and it's all good. Heck, I'm guessing 10 bucks...it might have been cheaper...I don't really remember.