Trying for 300hp
#1
Trying for 300hp
I have been nosing around summit racing and have been seeing all the parts available for my 91 f250 351w. I have a list of bolt ons that seems like it would make a huge difference. But I wanna get some opinions before I rack up a big bill. The list is an Edelbrock upper and lower truck intake, BBK twin 61mm throttle body, throttle body spacer, 24lb injectors, aluminum fuel rails. I also plan on doing motor parts as well down the road. However, would these efi parts get me some big improvements for not tearing the whole motor apart or should I just not waste $1300? Obviously I could put that into cam rockers lifters etc. but I really don't want to have to pull the motor or tear a lot apart.
#2
With what you listed I would expect little to no improvement. The intake does not flow any better than what you have stock, the throttle body wont make a difference, the spacer is a waste of money and injectors are only needed when you exceed 300 hp in the engine. To get real gains you will want a new cam, rockers, lifters, maybe heads, and headers with a full exhaust. That will give you the power you are looking for.
#3
That's what I was figuring on. Can't build a gas motor like a diesel lol. What a good cam rocker and lifter setup for a stock motor. There's so many out there that claim to be "perfect". Also I have a set of long tube headers but they don't have egr hookups. Is there a way to get around that?
#4
Read through this:
How to pick a CAMSHAFT for EFI - FSB Forums
When you put in those parts on Summit they should show you the correct lifters for the cam. As far as rockers go, im not positive, Wait and see if Conanski post here. He knows a LOT more about his than most, including me.
How to pick a CAMSHAFT for EFI - FSB Forums
When you put in those parts on Summit they should show you the correct lifters for the cam. As far as rockers go, im not positive, Wait and see if Conanski post here. He knows a LOT more about his than most, including me.
#6
I am gonna shoot from the hip here but you may want to look into iron gt40p heads that come on the 96-01 v8 5.0 explorer/ mountaineer suvs. Years ago i had a 1985 mercury capri rs that i built a 302 for utilizing these heads. These heads flow really well in stock form. It was a huge improvement over the e5-e7 heads that sbfs have from the factory. That car screamed. I do know that you ford motorsport makes shorty headers specific for these heads since the sparks are angled differently and factory configured headers will not work. Best of all, you can find these in junkyards for $75-150 per side. Clean em, put a trick flow spring kit in em with new valve seals, gaskets, headers, and run it. Bet with the heads alone, you gain 35-45hp.
#7
Did you switch to a mass air setup, if not non of those parts will do you any good,the computer will not like to many engine mods. There are conversions or find a setup from a newer truck 95-96. The Edelbrock intake is a great intake but will not see any gains without cam and heads. I switched a 96 f250 over to mass air setup, and used a cranecams compu cam ford racing aluminum heads, the efi edelbrock intake and bbk 61mm throttle body. Also headers, and dual exhaust with no cats. It made 265hp to the rear wheels but going through a e40d trans and 35 inch tires. So rite around 360hp to the flywheel. It ran pretty awesome but spent alot of cash to do it. All of this was done on a roller lifter 351w 94-97 block there are tons of parts for the roller cam motors.
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#9
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That's a perfect candidate for a MAF conversion and that's what you'll need to get your moneys worth from these engine parts. On this vintage motor the cam is the biggest restriction so changing that and the exhaust is the best bang for the buck to get a solid boost in power, but to go beyond that both the heads and intake need to upgraded at the same time since they're both equally restrictive on this displacement.
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The beauty of working with this motor is there are a ton of possible combinations you could put together thanks to the popularity of the 5.0HO, loads of lightly used aftermarket heads and intakes, lots of flat tappet and roller cams to pick from. I like the Typhoon intake over the Edelbrock truck, the super long runners on the Edelbrock begin to work against you once HP targets go above 300, and the Typhoon has a single blade TB so you don't need the stupid intake Y pipe to use a MAF meter, This intake is also $200-300 cheaper than the Eddy Performer it's copied from so you can save some coin in the process.
Cams. Well there are lots of choices there, the Crane 444232 has been a favorite of mine ever since I put one in my 5.8, despite it's seemingly modest specs it makes great power on paper and in actual use so it's a good choice as long as you use oil with ZDDP additives. The lack of zinc in modern oils is a big part of the reason we hear about so many cam failures shortly after breakin these days, so a roller cam should also be considered despite the fact it'll cost about 3 times as much after you buy all the supporting hardware. To that end it may be worth your while to get a later roller block to buildup and just swap it when the time comes. If you do that the Comp 35-320-8 would be a good choice IMO.
Saving weigh on a truck engine with aluminum heads isn't a concern but if a set fall in your lap then you can't be ungratefull. There are a lot of good cast iron heads available too but it'll take something better than GT40s to get beyond 300hp, think RHS or Dart 180cc with 2.02/1.60 valves.
Cams. Well there are lots of choices there, the Crane 444232 has been a favorite of mine ever since I put one in my 5.8, despite it's seemingly modest specs it makes great power on paper and in actual use so it's a good choice as long as you use oil with ZDDP additives. The lack of zinc in modern oils is a big part of the reason we hear about so many cam failures shortly after breakin these days, so a roller cam should also be considered despite the fact it'll cost about 3 times as much after you buy all the supporting hardware. To that end it may be worth your while to get a later roller block to buildup and just swap it when the time comes. If you do that the Comp 35-320-8 would be a good choice IMO.
Saving weigh on a truck engine with aluminum heads isn't a concern but if a set fall in your lap then you can't be ungratefull. There are a lot of good cast iron heads available too but it'll take something better than GT40s to get beyond 300hp, think RHS or Dart 180cc with 2.02/1.60 valves.
#12
#13
Trick Flow Track heat 170cc heads w/58cc chambers. Flat Top Pistons. Comp Cam XE-264HR, Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, ported truck intake.. stock throttle body..
should be making around 300 at the wheels in a lil ole 302...
has ALOT of topend.. probably is a touch weak down low.. still more than stock..
but that on top of a 351W it'll make up for it..
and all of that is on stock Speed Density.. rich at idle. just a touch lean on top end. surges at idle a lil bit. once in a while dies in gear at a light or something..
but overall am happy..
but i am swapping to MAF..
should be making around 300 at the wheels in a lil ole 302...
has ALOT of topend.. probably is a touch weak down low.. still more than stock..
but that on top of a 351W it'll make up for it..
and all of that is on stock Speed Density.. rich at idle. just a touch lean on top end. surges at idle a lil bit. once in a while dies in gear at a light or something..
but overall am happy..
but i am swapping to MAF..
#14
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That's exactly how my motor is too.. it's a 5.0 thing it just doesn't make enough grunt until the rpms are up, and yeah that same topend on a 5.8 would rock!
P.S. Do you have the XE264HR-14 or the XE264HR-12?
P.S. Do you have the XE264HR-14 or the XE264HR-12?
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nconsalo
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
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05-26-2012 11:15 PM