For anyone in a situation where they need to shim their rear leaf springs to correct a pinion angle, I learned what was almost a very expensive lesson about Axle shims. I'm sure the majority of you already know this but for those "incoming dummies" I thought this would be helpful.

In the photo below are two types of shims.

The one on the right is actually called a wedge and has a large center hole with a grove down one side. I now call this the lazy shop version, because they can be slide between the axle and spring pack with very little effort and w/o removing the centering pin or anchoring them to the pack. DO not ever install or let anyone else install these on your truck. They will eventually slide out! If you look at the goemetry it is just a matter of when not if they will slide as they are only held by the force of the spring plate and the Ubolts.

The one on the left is a steel shim with a centering hole. This anchors to the entire spring pack with a centering bolt. These are not going anywhere.



Conclusion:
Left side of photo - solid steel - centering anchor = good.
Right side of photo - aluminum - no center anchor slide in groove = bad.

 

Accident waiting to happen

 

I like the way they put ribs on it as if that is going to help keep it in place

 

Yes head smackingly (that a word?) bad design...
Little ribs vs 8k of truck shifting and torquing....

 

Haha!
Sammie, not to change the subject but are you just running F250 springs on your rig without any other kind of lift? I like the stance.

 

No lift just the springs with one caveat, I got them off a 2002 F250 that I bought both the axle housings off of a Dana 60 and LS 10.5, was a package deal. I found out once I got everything home that the PO had put aftermarket springs on his F250 so if you are interested they are actually ProComp srpings they are 22410 front and 22415 rear and I have no blocks, the springs are sitting directly bolted to the axles. I am about 3 1/2" lifted from stock with these springs. At first I was not thrilled because I thought I was getting V and B codes but I like the ProComp springs, the stance works for me and they ride well. I do need to update my sig and correct that, get asked that question often.

 

Does it ride stiff or close to stock?

 

Stiffer than soccer mom stock ride, about the same as a F250 actually. It's a truck and rides like one, which is what I wanted, since I'm way over the soccer mom thing...

 

Sam are you sure about those ProComp part numbers? The front 22410 shows that it will fit but not the rear 22415. This is according to the Amazon auto section which is right about 50% of the time. I am going to do the V/B swap in the spring but I have a ton of points that are usble via Amazon from the X-mas shopping that I could get the ProComps at a really good price.

 

I just went out and checked and I do have the front number wrong by one digit in my original post, they are actually

Front 22210 - listed as 4" of lift
Rear 22415 - listed as 6" of lift

BUT I removed the factory block in the rear, I think if you go with the 22415 in the rear and you leave the block you would end up much higher in the back.

The 22410 fronts get you 6" of lift in front according to Summit's website. A little confusing because you are saying the issue was with the 22415 number and that is correct. Anyway hope this helps.

 

The 22415's definitely bolt right in. I also installed them without the block to get about 3.5"-4" of lift over stock.

 

Ok, so if I'm going to do this myself, where do I get a proper shim? What angle do I want to shim on a 22415 rear spring without the stock block?

Thanks.

 

You have to drop the truck and springs onto the axle, measure pinion angle, and then get shims of the right degree to correct the angle.

 

Definitely the "lazy shop" version and could easily be the "lawsuit" version.

Like those grooves were going to keep it in...........hello!