So if I deciphered these correct, this is what I got.

12 25 53 55 25 65 558

This is exactly how they came, not sure if they're in the right order or not.

12 : Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC

25 : Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS

53 : Throttle Position sensor too high - TPS

55 : No or low (under 7 5 V) Key Power to PCM pin 5

25 (again?)

65 : Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground) - Fuel Control

558 : EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure - EVR or PFE or Solenoids

I'm not great with all this computer and electric mumbo jumbo in vehicles these days, can anyone point me in the right direction in resolving some of these codes? A lot of them do make sense now, knowing how it has been running.

Last time I hosed down the motor, it started running really weird. It was running like the timing had been thrown way off until it dried off. Yesterday I was out with a buddy getting it a little bit muddy. First waterhole it went through it did the same thing. The check engine light turns off, and the it acts like the timing is way off. It also starts shifting different, a lot softer.

I've got to get to the bottom of all these computer problems, it has to be ready for a long drive here soon. Any tips?

 

You should you post the year and power train of the truck.
Don't change the ISC without testing the TPS voltage. Its not a bad idea to pull the ISC and clean it. If its really dirty the throttle body is too.
A cheap Digital Multi Meter (DMM) and some common pins can check out most of the circuits and sensors for faults. The Haynes manual trouble shooting section will be a big help. Don't replace any component until you test it and test new components before installing.
Regards
rikard

 

Oh my mistake, I thought I had put it in my signature. 93 f250 4x4 E4OD 5.8.

 

The 5.8's don't even have a knock sensor like the 5.0's do, so you can disregard that one, I guess. With that many codes, I would first look at the grounds for the computer as well as the 12v battery voltage inputs to the computer, with a DMM, as rikard suggested. I believe there's 2 of each

 

Need to verify that last code. You shouldn't have a 3-digit code output with 2-digit codes listed as such. The same applies for a 2-digit code with 3-digit codes.
Try and get a close look at battery grounds and the O2 sensor circuit wiring.

 

You did something wrong, you won't get 3-digit and 2-digit codes together. Your truck should be 3-digit only codes I believe.

 

Ok, it would make more sense if it were 3 digit codes.

122 : TP low (possibly grounded or open circuit) - TPS

553 : AIRD solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids

552 : AIRB solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids

565 : Canister Purge 1 solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids

558 : EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure - EVR or PFE or Solenoids

I do need to get started with multi meter and just start running over all the wiring, I know it is probably 90% of my problems.

 

Well I figured out why I am getting most of these codes. The AIRD and AIRB solenoids have been completely removed. The canister purge 1 solenoid has been removed. And the EVR solenoid has been removed....

Time to find a parts truck.

 

TPS will definitely cause the truck to run like poop if it's faulting out. The TAD & TAB; Canister Purge can be disabled without much interference with engine, and EVR can/could cause problems from cold start to full cruising speed if it's allowing vacuum to pass through and pull vacuum on the EVP, which would allow the plunger for the EGR valve to pull up allowing combustion gasses back into intake.

Note: I don't advise, condone, or suggest removing/disabling any smog operated sensor, component, or equipment in hopes of eliminating such device(s). Also, putting electrical tape over MIL or CEL won't help much either as neither will removing the bulb indicating a problem.

P.S. The latter half was just for laughs, and I know you didn't ask about removing any of the above items. Cheers.

 

Damn, I figured some duct tape over the light would fix everything! Haha. Ok, I won't waste my time with the TAD and TAB. But I've always suspected an EGR problem because it runs like crap until it is at operating temperature.

Autozone has the EVR for $33.99. Think it's worth trying? I'm hoping that will fix the cold start issues.

 

Whenever I unplugged my EVR, troubleshooting a different problem, my 1992 F350 w/5.8L engine would trigger a Hard Fault code. This would put the PCM into Limp Mode which causes it to run with very conservative default settings.

I would highly suggest you replace the missing TAB/TAB solenoids, EVR and the Canister Purge (CANP) solenoid. The missing TAB/TAB and EVR the most likely leading contributor to your diveability issue. The CANP is probably not, but it is there to allow stored gas fumes to be burned off when the engine running.

 

^^^^^^ This

 

Well I bought the EVR and a length of vacuum and hooked it up. It ran worse, a lot worse. I found the canister purge solenoid in some of the crap that the previous owner sent with me and hooked it up. After about an hour of unplugging vacuum and running everything around I finally found the proper configuration. I fired it up and it was a night/day difference. The idle has cleared up and it is running as smooth as it ever has. Thanks for all the help, I couldn't be more happy. It fired up and was able to hold an idle when it was cold, but it was still a little rough until it warmed up. I'll take it for now, though.

Oh, and I finally got around to changing the oil last night. When I got the truck I didn't have any of the funds to do all the normal stuff that I usually do. Anyway, it was bad... REALLY bad. Pitch black, and when it all finally drained out all that remained at the bottom was this really goopy crap. I ran some motor flush through it with the drain plug out just to clear some of this stuff out.

So as far as I understand, these are 6 quart systems, right? I added 6 quarts and it hadn't even registered on the dipstick. I added another half, and it still hasn't registered. I'm starting to think it might be the wrong dipstick.

 

I'd also recommend you get the AIRD and AIRB solenoids. Even if you don't hook the vacuum lines up, the computer will be happy seeing them electrically there.

You'll also want to check your TPS voltage. You'll want to measure the voltage between the green wire and ground.

 

I'd check a junkyard for those solenoids. I posted a few years ago about these and i got mine through the dealer. One was a lot higher than the other one. I can look for the link and post it later this evening if it will help.