I have 1956 f 100, it has SCB with automatic. I was told the rear end in it now is a chevy but a very weak one. That being said it does seem to have some lose motion in the rear end. I have located a rear end from a 1997 explorer with a 6 cylinder in it. What kind of issues can i expect changing this rear end out to the explorer one? I,m planning on putting the rear end on top of the springs and doing a c-notch. Maybe taking every other leaf out and adding sliders also. Front will get a 3 inch drop axle with lowering springs. Thanks HaroldMac. BTW i,m not sure of the gears in the explorer rear end but the rear end i have now seems geared pretty low. I would think i would be doing better than i have for sure.

 

The explorer rear end seems like a popular swap. Gear ratios are generally in the mid 3's, so they would be decent all around gears. The axles tend to be narrow, so offset rims or spacers are generally used.

Another thing to keep in mind is the different bolt pattern from stock. The explorer uses 5x4.5, where stock is 5x5.5. If you want to match, you can get a front disc conversion from Speedway for around $259 and they have $7 flat rate shipping for a little longer, I believe.

Otherwise you will need different rims for the front and rear axles.

Here is a link on some basic explorer axle info I found.


The Ford Explorer 8.8-Inch Rear Axles

 

Thanks, i have been getting ALOT of great info from AXracer. Looking to start ordering parts right after the first of the year. I was planning on doing to disc brake set up on front, so i could also match all hubs too. I,m wanting to go as low as i can with drop axle and lowing spring front and hopefully match back by putting axle on top of springs and removing some leaves adding sliders. Oh yeah, c-notching too. thanks for all the info guys, HaroldMac

 

Also the Explorer rear ends have 3 1/4" tubes so you have to find perches and U bolts for it. I think that if you mount the rear on top of the springs you are already looking at a drop of about 5". You probably don't need to remove any leaves on your springs.

 

I was going to be the one that takes the rear end from the explorer, So i was going to keep everything as in u bolts. Guess i need to put it back together and see before i start taking out springs. If i do the axle on top i will have to do the c-notch correct? I just dont want to take 2 steps forward and one step back if you know what i mean. Thanks

 

I used 2001 Explorer 3:73 rear with disc brakes in my '50 F1; using Nissan Pathfinder rear springs and MII front cross member (3" drop) I get slight rake back to front on my stance.

Mounted axle over rear springs, gallery may give you a feel for my install. I originally fastended the stabilizer from the Explorer but it prevented shock travel at back, giving "cocked" stance. Also used Explorer shock mounts.

Tom

 

Thanks for the picture, Will I have to have a drive shaft made for this swap? Should i get the drive shaft from the explorer also? i had read someone that if your using leave spring that the sway bar is not needed. True or false?

 

I needed a custom drive shaft to go from AOD to the 8.8 from the Explorer rear axle. Had a drive line shop "graft" the Explorer flange to mate to the rear end. Cheap at about $ 150.00 . I thought leaving the stabilizer would prevent "wrap up" when you accelerate but I don't think there will be problem leaving off mine. My foot's not that heavy.

Make sure you get the pinion angle right to match motor angle before you weld on the spring perches to the rear axle.

Tom

 

Pull the cover and count the teeth to find the gear ratio. Mine had a 4.10 gear which I swapped to a 3.55.

 

Non-stock tranny to non-stock rear end is certain to require a custom length driveshaft. But I would grab the Explorer's driveshaft for the flat 4 mounting yoke, if it's free or cheap, and have the driveline specialist shop alter the length.

Nissan springs? Interesting. Did they mount up in the stock shackle location? granted, the '56 length is different than previous years.

I agree that a mild C-notch would be best. I also don't think removing every other leaf would make any difference if the axle sits on top of the main leaf anyway? Except to make the truck bouncy.

Correct pad angle is a must, Jniolon has a nice write up on driveline phasing, which I don't have the link handy, but a search will work.

If you are swapping to disc brakes up front, you can go with 5x4.5, and leave the Explorer rear pattern alone. Stock F-series wheels will no longer fit. Explorer rear end is half inch narrower than stock. 1/4" each side.

 

I sent a photo of the rear end i have now and was told it looks like a dana 44. Had a guy look at it and he said that the rear end i had in it was a weak one. The explorer rear end i can get does have disc on it so i guess that would be a plus also. i would like the rear hubs and front the same, going to do disc on front on near future. I was thinking if i,m going to change rear end better to do it when i,m doing work on the springs and c-notching. Thanks again for all the info. I so know alot of you have already over come these issues and it will save me headaches and money.

 

Be sure to check the tag on the Explorer rear end. I had a 96 Explorer a few years ago...it had a towing package and came with a 4.10:1 ratio.

Dan

 

I hope to get all that info Tomorrow. The explorer was on borrow at the fire department for training on extrication. its been cut up pretty good but maybe i can find all the info.

 

Dana 44 was stock up through 1956, so maybe it is the original rear?

 

Was those usually positive traction?