Brake system on my 52 F-7
#1
Brake system on my 52 F-7
I am on my brakes today, I remember bleeding them last time that I did not like the way my bleeder nipples felt within my wheel cylinders. Hard to believe they were worn out because of the low mileage of the truck so I do not think that is the case but they just felt a bit sloppy even when I loosened them up just a tad.
What would you guys recommend as a sealer, teflon tape maybe?
The residual valves I ordered from Summit have sealer on their threads, it reminds me of the white or grey sealer we would use on plumbing repairs to seal threads. Has that thick goooe consistency. I wonder if anything like that is avail. I wonder if I could use the plumbing stuff and would it work?
I just want to be sure I have done everything to the best of my ability within my financial budget so that hopefully I will have a good pedal this time around.
I am at this point bleeding my new master/brake booster assy and will be installing this A.M and then running some new lines as my old new lines became damaged and I dont want to take the chance of splicing in sections only to have problems with that.
New coil of 3/16 brake line 25 ft was only 22 bucks.
What would you guys recommend as a sealer, teflon tape maybe?
The residual valves I ordered from Summit have sealer on their threads, it reminds me of the white or grey sealer we would use on plumbing repairs to seal threads. Has that thick goooe consistency. I wonder if anything like that is avail. I wonder if I could use the plumbing stuff and would it work?
I just want to be sure I have done everything to the best of my ability within my financial budget so that hopefully I will have a good pedal this time around.
I am at this point bleeding my new master/brake booster assy and will be installing this A.M and then running some new lines as my old new lines became damaged and I dont want to take the chance of splicing in sections only to have problems with that.
New coil of 3/16 brake line 25 ft was only 22 bucks.
#2
Excuse my ignorance but I dont remember experiencing this before while bleeding a master Put brake fluid in after capping off the outlet ports with the supplied threaded plastic bolts.
Pushed in rod on power brake booster slowly, went in about an inch if not more, waited a few seconds ( they tell you to wait 15 ) and pushed it in again, went in about the same amount, a few bubbles came up out of the ports.
Waited and attempted to push in again, S.O.B. wouldnt budge but a fraction of an inch ( a very slight fraction ) but even more bubbles.
At first I thought to myself what the heck is going on here, now that I have calmed down I am thinking it has too be that the fluid has made its way into all of the cavities and at this point it is going as it should and I am OK.
What do you guys think ?
For anyone reading this you can prob. understand why this all is taking me so long. I am overly cautious in some respects and that can really slow things down.
Pushed in rod on power brake booster slowly, went in about an inch if not more, waited a few seconds ( they tell you to wait 15 ) and pushed it in again, went in about the same amount, a few bubbles came up out of the ports.
Waited and attempted to push in again, S.O.B. wouldnt budge but a fraction of an inch ( a very slight fraction ) but even more bubbles.
At first I thought to myself what the heck is going on here, now that I have calmed down I am thinking it has too be that the fluid has made its way into all of the cavities and at this point it is going as it should and I am OK.
What do you guys think ?
For anyone reading this you can prob. understand why this all is taking me so long. I am overly cautious in some respects and that can really slow things down.
#3
I think it would be worthy to continue adding my experiences to this thread throughout the day, while some of this might be old news to you it will not be for many others.
I am a bodyman by trade and choice. I can GUARANTEE that I know my trade better than alot of other folks reading this and my point to adding that is we should not assume whats so trivial and simple for one should be for all.
I have not run across any of this nonsense on this particular site but I do know that mindset is rampant through our Western Culture.
I hope my experiences and ideas help someone with their own projects and please feel free to comment on any of my posts here. Honestly I only have a very basic idea of what I should be doing so please correct any mistakes you see me making.
One other point I need to add, I have been hesitant start posts like this because I am an original vehicle guy. I dont really like the idea of taking an original car or truck that has any sort of historical significance and that is complete and modifying it.
I believe we should leave these vehicles as are, I did not follow my own advice with this truck, I did receive it in boxes practically for the most part with many of the major parts missing or destroyed from neglect but technically I could have restored it originally. I chose not too.
I am a bodyman by trade and choice. I can GUARANTEE that I know my trade better than alot of other folks reading this and my point to adding that is we should not assume whats so trivial and simple for one should be for all.
I have not run across any of this nonsense on this particular site but I do know that mindset is rampant through our Western Culture.
I hope my experiences and ideas help someone with their own projects and please feel free to comment on any of my posts here. Honestly I only have a very basic idea of what I should be doing so please correct any mistakes you see me making.
One other point I need to add, I have been hesitant start posts like this because I am an original vehicle guy. I dont really like the idea of taking an original car or truck that has any sort of historical significance and that is complete and modifying it.
I believe we should leave these vehicles as are, I did not follow my own advice with this truck, I did receive it in boxes practically for the most part with many of the major parts missing or destroyed from neglect but technically I could have restored it originally. I chose not too.
#4
#7
Back to bleeding the reservoir, I found that most of the bubbles came out the front portion of master cylinder. I am using a disk/drum master cylinder. As far as I have learned the front portion of the master supplies the rear drum and the rear portion ( or the larger one ) supplied originally the disk up front.
Evidently from what I have read the disk require more fluid volume at one point which makes sense if you think about the larger reservoir that makes up the caliper.
I am running the stock drum brakes all the way around. As far as what I have learned Ford trucks and drums all the way around are very rare ( if they exist at all ) and I needed/wanted a M.C. that would bolt to my stock brake booster.
Anyway I found that waiting 15 seconds was a joke, I would still be standing there now if I chose to do that. I pumped, waited a couple of seconds, pumped again. I used a block of wood against the steel rod or else it hurts the hand.
I found that if I really applied alot of force I could move the rod further and I could hear the air move around within the P.B booster.
I chose not to force it like this, Im thinking this is not necessary.
I pumped 18 times before bubbles finally stopped coming up, I walked away for a few minutes, went back, pumped again and got a couple of bubbles, walled away for a few minutes and pumped, no bubbles. I feel I am done with this, I notice that if I stood there and pumped there would be one single bubble coming out of rear ( largest ) reservoir, I am thinking that this will always be the case. I am not concerned with this.
Put cap back on tight and now I am ready to install/update this thread.
Evidently from what I have read the disk require more fluid volume at one point which makes sense if you think about the larger reservoir that makes up the caliper.
I am running the stock drum brakes all the way around. As far as what I have learned Ford trucks and drums all the way around are very rare ( if they exist at all ) and I needed/wanted a M.C. that would bolt to my stock brake booster.
Anyway I found that waiting 15 seconds was a joke, I would still be standing there now if I chose to do that. I pumped, waited a couple of seconds, pumped again. I used a block of wood against the steel rod or else it hurts the hand.
I found that if I really applied alot of force I could move the rod further and I could hear the air move around within the P.B booster.
I chose not to force it like this, Im thinking this is not necessary.
I pumped 18 times before bubbles finally stopped coming up, I walked away for a few minutes, went back, pumped again and got a couple of bubbles, walled away for a few minutes and pumped, no bubbles. I feel I am done with this, I notice that if I stood there and pumped there would be one single bubble coming out of rear ( largest ) reservoir, I am thinking that this will always be the case. I am not concerned with this.
Put cap back on tight and now I am ready to install/update this thread.
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#8
Sorry, will add this info toward the end, I am assuming everyone follows my threads. I need to keep on this task right now but again will let you know. Not stock set-up so you might not like the set-up
#9
Sorry, will add this info toward the end, I am assuming everyone follows my threads. I need to keep on this task right now but again will let you know. Not stock set-up so you might not like the set-up
#10
I was refereed to him by more than one individual as knowing his stuff and I trust him.
He knows my scenario, he knows the size of my truck. The master I am using has a 1 1/4 bore ( originals used a 1.5 ) and it is the largest I have been able to find that will ( just a hair had to be shaved on the holes in M.C where it bolts to booster) bolt onto my dual reservoir power brake booster.
The master originally is set-up for 3/16 line and Cory told me that it isnt going to make the least bit of difference if I uppped it to the 1/4 inch.
Of course he said it in many more technical terms.
#11
I do not know anything about any albums, I understand that these sites host this sort of stuff but I wouldnt know where to even find it. I can give you though any pictures you would like.
#12
#13
Pedal assy
Come from an EARLY 198whatever Bronco. Too be honest I did not know Bronco used sticks, I get the feeling they never did and someone made this work in their truck, I could be wrong, anyway had a hell of a time finding this set of pedals.
Dont try and use automatic pedals and adding the clutch pedal from a later stick F-whatever, they are JUNK. The end will twist off if you have a stiff clutch, trust me, been there.
I am not the sort of guy that cares about frills, my idea of comfortable is prob. different from yours.
These pedals will mount underneath the dash with just about ZERO modification. Hell one of the holes on the front right of pedal assy fit exactly in the same place as one of the steering column bolts ( just had to find a longer bolt ) and the hole for the left was there as well ( dont know what that was all about ) but I do have to still weedle it out a bit cause its not a prefect match.
Again though the pedals will feel a bit off centered, they are in my truck, they are off centered because the steering column is a bit in the way. Maybe one of you guys can come up with a better idea. I could not.
You will have to heat and straighten the brake peal a bit and then then grind off the weld that holds the pedal pad and weld it back on straight. If you do not do this than it will still hit/rub the steering column shaft.
BTW, see that diamond plate on the firewall, this was one of MANY attempts at making a cable set-up like the mustangs run. I have spend ALOT of time and nearly the same amount in money trying to go cable, without writing a book here I will just say trust me, it is not going to happen unless maybe you are using some very weak pressure plate.
Come from an EARLY 198whatever Bronco. Too be honest I did not know Bronco used sticks, I get the feeling they never did and someone made this work in their truck, I could be wrong, anyway had a hell of a time finding this set of pedals.
Dont try and use automatic pedals and adding the clutch pedal from a later stick F-whatever, they are JUNK. The end will twist off if you have a stiff clutch, trust me, been there.
I am not the sort of guy that cares about frills, my idea of comfortable is prob. different from yours.
These pedals will mount underneath the dash with just about ZERO modification. Hell one of the holes on the front right of pedal assy fit exactly in the same place as one of the steering column bolts ( just had to find a longer bolt ) and the hole for the left was there as well ( dont know what that was all about ) but I do have to still weedle it out a bit cause its not a prefect match.
Again though the pedals will feel a bit off centered, they are in my truck, they are off centered because the steering column is a bit in the way. Maybe one of you guys can come up with a better idea. I could not.
You will have to heat and straighten the brake peal a bit and then then grind off the weld that holds the pedal pad and weld it back on straight. If you do not do this than it will still hit/rub the steering column shaft.
BTW, see that diamond plate on the firewall, this was one of MANY attempts at making a cable set-up like the mustangs run. I have spend ALOT of time and nearly the same amount in money trying to go cable, without writing a book here I will just say trust me, it is not going to happen unless maybe you are using some very weak pressure plate.
#15
Hmmm maybe I should check with this Cory and upgrade my single reservoir brake system. Also as far as albums, just click pilot31, that will take you to my FTE homepage. Once there on the right side is photo albums. Click on the F-8 pic and you can see all of the pics I have posted. It's a shame if you can't look at other people's projects and handiwork. Have a good one!