Okay, I took 361 photos of the engine when tearing it down and didn't take one that shows the oil pump driveshaft and the oil pump. There is a ring on one end and I'm assuming that the end with the ring goes into the pump. But then I thought, "hmmm, wouldn't that prevent the shaft from be driven into the pump to, uh, you know, actually pump?"

So if anyone knows then I'd appreciate the help.

 

that ring goes up towards the distributor hole. It keeps that shaft from falling out when the engine is rotated. Of course when the oil pump is on to keep the other side in.

 

Thanks!

My high capacity oil pump doesn't clear the oil pan. So the question is, should I go with a new pan or stock oil pump?

 

I would get a stock new oil pump. high capacity oil pumps are good for engines with lots of miles on them and completely unnecessary for a freshly rebuilt motor. At least these fords

 

Is the Standard PS 60 oil pressure sending unit the one I need for replacement.?

 

year, model, motor, will determine if you have just idiot light, or idiot gauge, as to which you need,

 

Like stated, the ring goes towards the top of the engine, and is there to keep you from pulling the shaft out of the pump upon removal of the distributor.

If you're going to use a high capacity/volume pump, I'd really advise that you use an ARP oil pump drive. I questioned my machinist about it and he just sat down and ordered me the shaft... Hardly gave me the option to use the stock shaft. They tend to twist up like licorice with the increased drag that you'll see with a higher capacity pump. I used the Melling HV on my mill. Cleared my truck pan no issues. 95' 5.8L.