He said the bolt was loose. That's why I suggested that. You can spin it out without drilling a deep hole.

 

i've broken too many drill bits that way, and a main bearing isn't where i want to be breaking one off, but if he isn't deep there is less risk

 

I think there may be some confusion or a part was missed.

Left-hand drill bit. You use the drill in reverse. If the bolt is loose, it will spin out when the drill bit bites.
Last time I looked, Autozone stocked them. Other than AZ, I don't know what other hardware or parts store has them. They don't list them online though.

Another thing, if it's loose enough, a magnetic pick-up tool may work too. I've had luck doing that in the past.

 

i was on the same page, but having tried it that way before, i've broken drill bits into loose bolts when the bolt spun because it didn't grab before it was that deep.
i own a set of left handed drill bits, so i'm on the same page about those - but they're just as fragile as any others.
i know that harbor freight has a cheap set of lefties, but they're a basic steel bit, not cobalt or anything that'll last. i would expect good hardware stores like mclendons to stock them too, as would grainger, tacoma screw, etc.

 

I found that the quickest way to get the bolts is through the local ford dealer. They can get the superceded # by monday for me. All the local parts places either gave me a blank stare or told me it was special order. Apparently, they come in bags of 3. I'm going to replace just the 2 on the #1 main.

Still haven't tackled the broken bolt yet. My wife is a paramedic and works shift work, and last night I was on baby duty. I'm hoping tonight is the night I can get it out and move on to the next part of this longer-than-i-expected project.

I'm hoping to slow down the leaks on this truck. I already replaced the front cover, as it was cracked, the leaking water pump, leaking thermostat housing (with new t-stat). Still on the list: v/cover, pushord cover, and address the manual trans leak. I am changing from 5w-30 to 10w-40 oil in hopes of helping as well.

I am still debating the oil pump replacement while its apart. I don't want to do more harm than good, and I'm not sure there is a solid reason to replace it. Thoughts?

 

You can take the pump apart and look at it. If it's scored up I would replace it.

About the bolt extraction; It's always a risky business. I have had good luck with left hand drill bits myself. If it drills a hole, then afterward just use a easy-out. I always start with a very small drill bit. I try to start in the middle, and if you can get to it, try to center punch the broken part as good as you can in the center. If you can't get it center punched, then take the small bit and try to steer it around in the beginning and try to get the small hole drill as much in the center as you can. If you use a regular right hand bit, and it's as loose as you say, then it might screw itself on up into the hole and be hard to reach. Like I said in the beginning, each broken bolt is a different situation, there is no set way of getting them out.

 

As I'm sure you know, this is one of those things that people do when they have the engine already apart (and getting to this point is a lot of work), the thought being they'll replace it now as it's easy to get to. Just like replacing the water pump when replacing a timing chain on a V8.

I replaced an oil pan gasket before without also replacing the oil pump, this was with the engine still in the car and me grumbling to myself for even going there, it's really lots easier to take the engine out to do such a job.

Replacing a known-good-and-working oil pump will then involve resetting the ignition timing, and that provides plenty of opportunity for mistakes and additional problems.

If you decide to not replace it, I don't think anybody would laugh and shake their head at you and call you a fool.

Now, watch... just because I said that, here will come posts from people who have been on FTE for 10 years but contribute only one or two posts per year and will offer their worldly advice, saying how such an approach is so stupid.... well, phuque 'em....

 

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In case y'all missed it...See post 15 for additional applications for F3ZZ-6345-B/C2OZ-6345-A.

 

i would go ahead and replace the pump. its a nasty job to do with the engine in the truck, and i had one with a bad pressure relief valve inside that would lose all pressure suddenly and randomly. as such, i wouldn't play with an old pump, just drop in a new one

 

I was able to get the broken bolt out using a left hand drill bit. I got a hole started in the middle of it, and put a bigger LH bit in and it spun right back out.

I found the torque spec of 60-70 ft/lbs for the cap bolts, so that's what they were torqued to. I replaced just the #1 bolts, and decided to leave everything else alone- including all other main caps and the oil pump.

The wife helped me by watching our baby before she had to go to work tonight so I could actually get the truck back together. I got her started, but I couldn't road test it because I need to get some power steering fluid, since the line came disconnected while the engine was lifted up.

I used the newer 4.9 Felpro 1 piece oil pan gasket, and the snap-ups, with great success. I ground the lip of the bolt holes down on the pan, and scraped everything down good.

Thank you for everyone's help and the discussion on how to get the bolt out. This old truck probably was never treated this nice.

Thanks again!