It's hard to tell if that race is shot by the picture and the rollers will leave rust bars like that after sitting a while. If those bearings are adjustable (are they?), the races looked good, and I could get a new roller set, I would do that with my truck (I might even just adjust it an grease it). Also you could replace the race that probably would come with the bearing with no machining to the hub (press fit). So I don't know what Fords' thinking is on the bearing other than it has become more of an "oh, just put a whole new one in" mentality now days.

 

Here is another company making conversion kits to get away from the unit bearings:

Spyntec Lockout Hub Conversions

If you plan on keeping the truck for a long time it may be worth doing it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11393754

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...installed.html

 

the difference between fine thread and coarse thread is dependent on whether you have a SRW or a dually. The dually uses coarse threads on the front hubs to bolt the dually adapters to the hub itself, not the wheels. the wheel studs are the same thread on the adapter as the fine threaded hubs on a SRW truck.

 

Not sure when that chance was made, but my truck is "early" 1999 dually 4x4 and it has coarse threads also in the wheel studs

 

Sort of reviving an old thread because I am in need of replacing/rebuilding my unit bearings. Good info on here but...

On the photos of the disassembled unit bearing, correct me if I am wrong, but that race sure looks pressed in to me. Maybe it's just the pictures that are deceiving.

Consider this, would the metal used in casting the hub portion be appropriate metal to be machined and be hard enough to act as an appropriate race to the bearing portion?

Again, just following up on this, but are you sure that race is NOT pressed in??

 

You dont need to take apart the entire hub. The bearing on the axle can be replaced for a fraction of what the unit bearing cost. Check the tech articles here. He is also an FTE member.

2004 F250

 

interesting....

 

Bently_coop,

If you are referring to the needle bearing that the outer stub axle rides on, yeah, no problem. But I am referring to the large roller bearing on the inside of the unit, as noted in the pics. THAT's the bearing that I am referring to and the respective race.

 

The unit/wheel bearing (4 wheel drive?) doesn't come apart but you can grease it through the abs hole.

 

I got a question? How you spend 600 on a front brake job? Rotors and pads are what 150-175 what you do install bear six piston calipers or something

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

Halloween might be over, but i can still raise this from the dead.. muahaha...

No that was all 4 wheels, caliper brackets, calipers, rotors & pads, i finished at 700. I had 1 pin in every caliper bracket frozen solid with the bracket. Ive since had to warranty the 1 front caliper, I think because it gets too hot from the bad wheel bearing haha.. whichhh is how I ended up back here.

So anyone ever give this a try? And find bearing part numbers etc? Probably going to just drop $100 on a cheap one on rockauto, since I know I'll screw up the first go no matter what even if its doable, haha.

 

My brake jobs cost about $20 (original rotors and O'reillys metallic pads)

 

I had someone send me one of the newer 2005 +
unit bearings that I was going to disassemble. But
guess what The nut that I marked with the arrow is
not on the new style ones and I can't find a way to
grab it to unscrew the assembly.



So I guess time for the cut off disk in the grinder to make big
parts into smaller ones.
If I find anything worth sharing I'll post it.



Sean

 

WHAT A BUNCH OF CRAP. How do they call that a sealed bearing ?? I thought it would really look like & be a sealed bearing!! Thanks for the work & pics. I'm a packn em till the grease is a flowin

 

looks like the old school bearings to me.