If I can round up the parts I'm going to tackle the drive shaft today. @284k and all of the towing I do, it's prob a good idea to get some new greasy parts under there.
So I've been doing some reading about "drive shaft phasing" and honestly I never even knew about the importance of it... During my "three transmissions in two months" debacle I had the shaft in & out a few times and never once "phased it" going back in.
I'm not sure if the guys at BTS checked it upon reassembly or just put it back the way it came out
So my question is: do I just make sure that all of the yokes are in line front to back and I'm good? or is there more science to it? I doubt my shaft was ever marked so I'm going in blind.
Any and all help will be appreciated
I also have a can of the magic Ford slip joint grease Thanks to Mark (Tailgate77478) So I'll slip into the dealership and pick up a rubber boot kit as well.

 

Subscribing - bumping my HP bumped this project onto my priority list.

 

Subscribed as well

 

I recommend a new slip joint as well. I've replaced the u joints and carrier bearing twice and the last time I should have replaced the slip joint. I'm starting to get vibration, especially when letting off the throttle.

I understand the concept of phasing, but are these two piece drive shafts really phased? Not sure about the answer to that. However I usually spray paint a line on any driveshaft I do anyway.

 

Frank I would start by looking very closely to the driveshaft because I am sure Brian or his guys marked the driveshaft before pulling it out. I myself took a hammer and metal chisel and stamped a arrow at every yoke and on the ends of driveshaft. And as far as "phasing" I say as long as you take it apart and put the shaft and yoke in the same place you won't have an issue. I personally think leave it to the Pro's... I mean by that at 284k replace ujoints, cb and have the thing balanced. Everytime I replace ujoints on "anything" I have the driveshaft balanced. It only cost around $100 and if it isn't "phased" they can fix that when balancing. Some guys here seem to worry more about phasing than balancing.

And as heavy as you tow and the distances you go I would want it balanced. I would look into a driveshaft shop and see what they want to do it. Besides on the carrier bearing there are 2 sizes and I do believe our CC 2wd drw is the larger of the two. Dana #211359X bearing ID1.574 but that is what Dana calls for and ujoints 5-160x or 5-801 series 1410. And I would use Spicer or Percision, I would not use junk part store brand. I learned that one years ago.

Hope this helps!

 

I believe they are, especially what I went through with mine. I couldn't figure out where the vibration was coming from until I started digging into it. I looked at mine and the front yoke and slip yoke were off by 45 degrees or so. Took it apart and lined them up and I couldn't believe the difference. If they are off, the universals are working against each other, in phase they work together.

 

And I forgot one thing as far as the slip joint. As long as the coating on the splines is not damaged or wore off it is good to go. I myself use Mercury Spline grease it has a higher shear rate than any automotive grease. And as long as your boot is good I would only replace the bands. You can use large wire tie, exhaust wrap tie straps or stock banding clamp.

 

Ed, thanks for the part numbers I used Precision solid U joints. They gave me the wrong carrier bearing, and it took a few stops to track the right one down.
I should have just had a shop do the whole job for me, I scrapped one U joint (because I'm impatient ), and I had a wrestling match with the carrier bearing...coming off and going on. The job took a lot longer than expected but it's finally done.
The 40mph & 70 mph vibration is completely gone!!
The slip joint looked great. Plenty of blue coating and grease, I probably could have left it alone, but a new can of Ford teflon slip joint grease has been in my rear cup holder for over a year. I just had to use a little...

 

Well I glad to hear you got it done and that you are good to go. Was the carrier bearing the ID 1.574 bearing or was it the smaller one?? Because when I was doing the research on that it was a little unclear.

I am glad to hear you went with the Precision solid U joints. Are you talking about the ones that have the grease fitting in the cap or solid with no grease fitting? The Spicer u joints are alittle more costly but I have used Precision U joints in the past with alot of luck. Good stuff I had book marked the Spicer #'s I gave you and the Precision #295 what part# did you install? Also what brand carrier bearing did you install I couldn't find a Precision or anyone who carries the Spicer.

I still haven't done my, they are still the factory ones with 205k . I thought I had a bad carrier bearing back when I was having trans issues but it ended up being the center support in the trans. So I still haven't gotten around to doing the u joints and carrier bearing. I still a vibration but I am unsure if it a wheel bearing, tire or u joints. I am leaning forward my wore out front tires. Speaking of tires how are you liking them new rear tires?

 

OOpppss Double post....Sorry

 

The first carrier bearing wouldn't fit over the splines of the drive shaft, My buddy took it back and Autozone claimed the 1.574 ID was for a F450, but it was correct and fit just fine. ( Timken HB88508A)
The Precision U joints were solid with no grease fitting, I didn't write the part number down, and the boxes are long gone I got those at Napa.
I still have yet to get the tires installed. I should get that done this week sometime.

 

I bought a carrier bearing from Autozone, zero issues so far. Lubed the spline fitting at the same time. The little "thud" I had upon take off stopped, all tight.

 

Drive Line Specialist

 

Thanks for posting this, it is a good read Alots of great info.

 

It definitely helped me get some stuff straight!