Been taking good care, mechanically, of my ol' Aerostar, 3.0, automatic, but lately after coolant system flush, new thermostat, new fan clutch and belt, I've been having to add coolant, after the temp rises to top of "normal" range (~3/4 on gauge). If I top off coolant, she'll run "cool" as I've been used to for many years, at the low end of the range.

Had a bhg about 6-7 yrs ago, and have had no other major problems since, other than having to rebuild the tranny. See no "milky" oil as I saw before with the bhg, and no obvious external coolant leaks. My mechanic said that the "inside" side of the radiator looks OK, but can't see the front side due to the tranny oil condenser.

Today, when starting up after a few days idle, there is quite a bit of white smoke out the exhaust. After driving a mile or so, there is no more smoke. When first starting it runs a bit rough, but this always smooths out within less than a mile.

Is there any coolant "additive", or solution that anyone can suggest for my problem?

She's just an ol' goat that I happen to have put a good amount of money into, and just want to get a few more years of service out of.

Thanks very much in advance for your learned responses

 

I had the same problems with my '86 which I owned for 13 years. Sounds like another bhg.

 

If you keep getting air in the system with no signs of external leaks, I'm thinking headgasket. Not all headgasket issues result in milky oil. A simple test, fill it up, and start it with the radiator cap off. If you keep seeing bubbles rising, about the size and consistency of soda pop, you have a blown head gasket.

 

nice tip Khan, I'm going to check mine later today.

 

Thanks Khan, that's a great tip and much appreciated

Had the same thing happen about two years ago, and added "sealing" additive, and I was good for quite a while, however there's not that many miles driven in that time, with business being down, and being on a small island.

Just bought a bottle of BL "block seal permanent head gasket fix" (before I was able to read your response) . . . .
I think this is their best stuff, however my mechanic said not to follow the directions that state, "Allow engine to cool." Instead, leave a little room for the product, and start motor with cap off. When coolant is flowing, add the product, but of course observe for the bubbles first, as Khan has suggested. Hope I don't see bubbles

Oh Well, its been a great truck for many years, very dependable, and I carry a lot of stuff for my repair business. It makes me want to buy a new Ford when the time comes

 

Those block seals sort of work for those leaks where the cooling system has the higher pressure, like for intake manifold or water pump gaskets. If the cooling system is the lower pressure side, like from combustion pressure due to leaking head gasket, that stuff will never make it into the leak, and if it did, will not hold up against the pressure.

 

I find its just easier to buy 2 new head gaskets and replace them. Its not worth blowing an engine if water gets in the oil pan and eats your bearings alive, or better yet if over heats and you burn out the tranny and blow the radiator seams out.