1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck
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Have researched the posts on here - Radius Arms- and it appears they make an adjustable radius arm bushing. Heres what I'm thinking (and my thinking my be messed up here).
I was going to put in Camber Bushing with a +2 3/8 degrees of adjustment. If I install Adjustable Radius Arm Bushings can they be used to do a rough in alignment than going with a lower range Camber Bushing, say +1 degree, that be used to fine tune in the alignment?
Also I noted that there were alot of alignment ranges available for Camber Bushings. Some had only positive degree adjustment range but some had negative and positive ranges. Assuming that the idea above is bunk and that I'll be using 33 or 34 in tires, and that the truck is not lifted, what is the best range I should use for the Camber Bushing? Is 2 3/8 degrees too much? Should I use a Camber bushing with both positive and negative adjustment ranges?
The camber bushings are both negetive or positive depending on how they are installed (i.e. installed with arrow or slot facing in or out).
Since your going to have an alignment done - The best bushing to use is a "0" that way the alignment shop can easily figure out what the correct bushing should be without having to resort to math (adding or subtracting the current camber bushing from the readings on the alignment machine to determine the correct adjustment bushing to install). Less math = less mistakes.
The radius arm bushings are used for Caster adjusment.
Vehicle: 1985 F-250, 460ci, Dana 44HD IFS, 4WD, 8600GVWR
Thanks for the input but I'm not sure I understand... re: "0" bushing. The link below goes to the Rock Auto page for Camber Bushings for the vehicle I'm having rebuild. The 4WD bushings are in the bottom half of the page
There is only one "0" out of all listed. I'm wondering if the types that have equal positive and negative ranges ( say +1.25/-1.25 ) would be the "0" if they were set in midrange? If I put in the dedicated "0" how difficult would it be to have those taken out and another put in?
Rgr on the Caster. Do you think this is a good idea to have an adjustable bushing so there is some Caster adjustment. From what I've read there isn't any caster adjustment on this model otherwise.
I reccomend the standard, non adjustable radius arm bushings. You can correct caster With the bushings on the upper BJ's.
I did alignments for a living for 25 years or more and have done countless caster/camber corrections on TTB/TIB F series trucks. Here's the drill... shake down the front end for loose ball joints, tie rods, etc. When all is good, hook up to the alignment machine and see what the caster and camber are. If out of spec, unhokk the machine, pull the wheels, then you remove the old bushing, see what it is and calculate what bushing you need to correct caster and camber. Install new bushings, hook up to machine and set the toe. I HATE those adjustable bushings. It is impossible to remove them without mangling them. You dont install them then turn them until the camber is right, you do the math and install them in the correct orientation.
92 F250 4x4 7.3idi zf5 3.55's Meyer plow
86 F350 2wd C&C Dump 351w C6 4.10s Meyer plow
The rest of my signature changed as to not offend some liberal crybaby.
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