7.3L Serpentine belt changed- my lazy way - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel SPONSORED BY:

7.3L Serpentine belt changed- my lazy way

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 08-05-2012, 08:18 AM
FarmingF250's Avatar
FarmingF250 FarmingF250 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 324
FarmingF250 has a good reputation on FTE.FarmingF250 has a good reputation on FTE.
7.3L Serpentine belt changed- my lazy way

The belt that was on my truck when I bought had seen better days, was cracked and missing one edge. Old belt after removal:




Rather than wait for it to fail and strand me, family & trailer away from home, I was able to change my serpentine belt on a 2000 7.3 without incident in my driveway. My top rad hose goes through the belt so I was putting this off and found it doesn't really make the job any harder, just a few extra steps.

Since I couldn't find a complete how to, here is my lazy way:

1) Park truck on level surface and allow to cool down
2) Gather new belt (I bought a Ford one, was about $53CDN), 1/2" breaker bar, 10" vice grips, empty jugs and pump
3) Insert pump into degas jug and pump out approx 4 litres / 1 gallon of coolant. (Yes you can use the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, uses a 3/4" wrench or 5/16" hex key, however my 3/4 section was hanging on by a thread and fell off when I put the wrench on it so I wasn't going to chance having the valve break completely and be stuck open)

4) Put vice grips on top rad clamp (if that type of clamp) and open clamp enough to slide it down hose. Leave vice grips on clamp
5) pull hose off rad nipple Do not allow hose to drop as some coolant is still inside

6) Insert 1/2 breaker bar and rotate tensioner to take strain off belt, you can swing the stopper into place to hold the tension "off", but mine fell off when I went to use it!







7) Remove old belt

8) Install new belt as per diagram underhood ensuring all grooved belt sections are in the correct grooves of the pullies. Crawling under the truck is the best way to get the crank pully lined up.

9) Release tensioner (or as I did, hold strain with breaker bar and avoid getting fingers caught..)
10) Visually check that the belt is still in the correct place on each pulley (verify verify verify)

11) Reconnect coolant hose and release vice grips
12) Pour saved coolant back into degas jug
13) Start engine and check everything is working / road test (fun part)

The job took me less than 45 minutes including taking pictures and I had never done this before. I think I could do it in half that next time.

I saved the old belt for emergency purposes, and as long as I have a 1/2" breaker bar and vice grips, I am confident this belt can be changed on the side of the road with only a little coolant loss, nothing a jug of coolant can't replace. Of course, swapping the hose to a behind the radiator version eliminates that issue.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-05-2012, 08:51 AM
Jmatthews's Avatar
Jmatthews Jmatthews is online now
is a BAAAD MAN
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winston Salem NC
Posts: 3,692
Jmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputationJmatthews has a superb reputation
I didnt even know about the stopper thing. I'll have to check that out haha. Nice job.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-05-2012, 09:01 AM
F350-6's Avatar
F350-6 F350-6 is online now
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 25,891
F350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputationF350-6 has a superb reputation
And for just a few dollars more, you can also just get the upper radiator hose for the dual alternator set up so that the upper hose goes around your belt so future changes don't involve messing with the coolant.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-05-2012, 09:38 AM
Ponyboychris's Avatar
Ponyboychris Ponyboychris is offline
Hit it!
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Centennial CO
Posts: 6,703
Ponyboychris has much to be proud ofPonyboychris has much to be proud ofPonyboychris has much to be proud ofPonyboychris has much to be proud ofPonyboychris has much to be proud ofPonyboychris has much to be proud ofPonyboychris has much to be proud ofPonyboychris has much to be proud ofPonyboychris has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by F350-6 View Post
And for just a few dollars more, you can also just get the upper radiator hose for the dual alternator set up so that the upper hose goes around your belt so future changes don't involve messing with the coolant.
I was thinking the same thing. I think I got my "around the belt" style hose from NAPA for $14 bucks. So worth it.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-05-2012, 10:51 AM
SARDiverDan's Avatar
SARDiverDan SARDiverDan is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,072
SARDiverDan has a very good reputation on FTE.SARDiverDan has a very good reputation on FTE.SARDiverDan has a very good reputation on FTE.SARDiverDan has a very good reputation on FTE.
I have to use a similar method as you did. Unfortunately, my Zena welder and extended upper hose (which is actually metal insert) precludes me from having an outside the belt configuration. Would love to have that option but mine looks like this:

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-05-2012, 02:21 PM
Firefighter 1406's Avatar
Firefighter 1406 Firefighter 1406 is online now
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Mishawaka, IN
Posts: 3,479
Firefighter 1406 has a very good reputation on FTE.Firefighter 1406 has a very good reputation on FTE.Firefighter 1406 has a very good reputation on FTE.Firefighter 1406 has a very good reputation on FTE.
How does that welder work for ya? Do you have to idle up the truck to use it? Just curious.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-05-2012, 03:51 PM
FarmingF250's Avatar
FarmingF250 FarmingF250 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 324
FarmingF250 has a good reputation on FTE.FarmingF250 has a good reputation on FTE.
Thanks all, I did look into the 9066 NAPA hose or the dual alternator Ford hose, Ford hose was $37, NAPA hose $18, but for me it was back ordered unless I wanted to spend $15 to have it shipped in. I didn't feel like spending double what it should be. I will likely get one if I come across a local NAPA with it in stock.

I really didn't find messing with the coolant an issue the way I did it, but I agree 100% that having the hose behind the belt is the most desired routing for ease of roadside breakdown.

That Zena welder is cool!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-05-2012, 04:05 PM
SARDiverDan's Avatar
SARDiverDan SARDiverDan is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,072
SARDiverDan has a very good reputation on FTE.SARDiverDan has a very good reputation on FTE.SARDiverDan has a very good reputation on FTE.SARDiverDan has a very good reputation on FTE.
Firefighter 1406,

The welder works outstanding. While I am not a welder by profession by any means, I have had great results with it and others that have used it have claimed it to be one of the best welders they have ever used. You can purchase an idle control assembly that increases the rpm with the welder (I have it but it is not hooked up) but I have not had a major issue with it. I also now have the high idle tune on my DP Tuner so I can just switch it on if I need it. I use the welder for jump starting other people’s vehicles more than welding on most occasions. Since welding is not a full time gig for me, the welder does come in handy when you need it. Check out the web site and read through the info and you will get a much better idea of the capabilities of this product.
Portable / Mobile DC Welding Equipment Designed for Use in Remote Locations
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Don't assume your block heater works! / How to test your block heater FarmingF250 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 11 01-04-2016 08:29 PM
Where is this oil leaking from (pics) 7.3 6-speed FarmingF250 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 11 12-10-2011 01:39 PM
1991 4.9L belt problem rollnaway 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 15 09-15-2011 02:48 PM
V-belts and other associated materials eatont9999 Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) 17 05-12-2011 12:17 AM
serpentine belt remove/replace tonyhd 1997 - 2003 F150 9 04-01-2011 10:25 AM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums >

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:06 PM.


This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.