fuel pump question
#16
Personally, I'm glad to hear of someone doing this with a 6.0! While most of us here use our trucks for work or pulling an RV, folks with the budget and know-how to build a truck like that give all of us some valuable insight into where some performance gains can be made (and where the weak spots are-lol).
Is this just for fun or are you building it for competition? Either way, good luck with it and keep us posted on your progress.
P.s. Sorry I can't be much help on the fuel question.
Is this just for fun or are you building it for competition? Either way, good luck with it and keep us posted on your progress.
P.s. Sorry I can't be much help on the fuel question.
Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; 07-27-2012 at 05:47 PM. Reason: Add
#17
Beatings will continue until moral improves
#18
Yea 700 hp is a round about number. at the wheel its probably around 550 at most. its actually belongs to a good buddy of mine and i have seen the whole life of the truck and its been taken care of. it runs fine with the oem. but you gotta drive it like an 80 year old grandma or it will blow injectors after a couple months. so its sounds like after doing some research im going to need a bigger fuel pump and regulated return? correct me if im wrong. i also appreciate the information everyone.
ARP Studs
Ford Gaskets
ITP's Fuel Regulated Return
Fluidampner
FASS 150/180
Suncoast Heavy Duty Rebuild
64mm Non-VGT Turbo
Spartan Stage I Injectors (155mm^3)
Spartan Phalanx Tuner (doubles as OBD-II gauge)
TFT, ECT, Boost, Volts, Oil PSI, EGT, and Fuel PSI gauges
#20
#21
#22
it seems the oem setup does reasonably ok with removing entrained air,
but not at huge flow rates.... now, if you are pushing 150 gph thru filters,
you are filtering the whole tank of fuel 6 times an hour. the regulated return
makes sure that you get a constant stream of fuel, without suspended air,
so the injectors get a nice gulp.... running a 6.0 out of fuel can break
injectors, obviously, and if the fuel system can't keep up, its the same as
just running the tank out..... no fuel is no fuel.
#24
they seemed to have some pretty serious reliability issues with the
airdog II, and zero problems with the airdog. dunno if that has gotten
worked out or not.... start googling....
i was looking at one from the standpoint of cleaning the fuel really well,
and eliminating the air from the fuel, and my mechanic pointed out that
the OEM stuff works pretty well, and doesn't have reliability issues,
and it's not another $700 or whatever the one you pick costs.....
if i was in your situation, i'd do the regulated return, then get a pressure
gauge on the fuel rails, and get some real world pressure readings at
different throttle settings, and SEE if your pressure is tanking, and at
what point it goes too low..... most of the 500+ hp club has regulated return
on the checklist... then you don't just puke money away.
might be interesting to see if the oem pump could keep up......
aftermarket pimping of products is tailored to people's hot buttons.
they were selling suzuki hayabusa titanium exhausts for $3,500.
for an $11,000 motorcycle... how it gave you more on top......
the stock motorcyle, with yours truly, at 3,500' elevation in
the mojave desert, with a bone stock 'busa, went 182 mph,
and there was more left.
yeah, that stock exhaust just isn't up to my needs... nope...
i need something made out of pure unobtanium........
do the return first. it'll prevent the starving of the one cylinder
that sucks hind teat, literally.
the regulated return has the pressure regulator after the fuel
rails, and an unpressurized drain back to the tank.... and the
pump just circulates endlessly....... this way you get a constant
pressure AT the injector..... cause the pump pressure is regulated
after you are done with the fuel.
#26
return, so if you are doing RR... ignore it... for what it's worth,
it's probably been done already... you'd be in a world of hurt with
big injectors and low rail pressure.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post