fuel pump
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fuel pump
I have been dealing with a fuel leak with my 96 F-250. From reading previous topics and replacing hoses I have determined it must be the fuel pump. I was attempting to get the fuel pump off last night but ran into the fitting on the back side of the fuel pump that is 1 1/4 so I have to get a wrench to fit that. My Question is if anybody was able to get the fitting off the back of the fuel pump with removing the Turbo. I really don't want to take the Turbo off.
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From: shiloh, kentucky
Yep, it can be done. I changed my fuel pump without removing the turbo. It is a booger but can be done. There are two flat washer type gaskets on both sides of the fuel line banjo bolt that I replaced, dont know if this is a necessity. I also replaced all of the fuel lines while the fuel bowl was out. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by hon147
Thanks, I will give it a shot tonight and keep my fingers crossed.
IF so then you will need to cut 1-1/4 or so socket head so it just barely fits over the banjo bolt. And little by little get it off.
I got mine removed 5 month ago and nOw don't want to put it back. It will be a btch.
It is doable but you have to buy a ton of Patience.
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No it is not a california model but still looks like a btch. I have learned a new level of patience taking off the cannister and putting it back on with new hoses only to have it still leak. Not a lot of room in there to work, plus I have to do it outside, need to get that dang shop done.
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If you got that flying saucer looking thing behing fuel pump then it is Cali, but you know better.
Otherwise it is 10 time easier if it is 49 state emiss truck.
My hand was bruised for a month from trying to remove that banjo bolt.
I need to get someone with tiny hand to work on my truck.
Otherwise it is 10 time easier if it is 49 state emiss truck.
My hand was bruised for a month from trying to remove that banjo bolt.
I need to get someone with tiny hand to work on my truck.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: FL
I "Borrowed" a 1-1/4" box wrench from work and had a buddy of mine heat it up with a torch to make just enough bend in it to clear the turbo pedistal. Although once i acutually got the wrench back there, i found that the box nut was just over finger tight 
Oh well, least it helped to tighten it back up. I've also heard of people using crow's feet and getting it off, but the box wrench worked well for me. there's a write up here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ight=fuel+pump on how to get it out, scroll down about half way. Hope this helps!
Robb
Oh well, least it helped to tighten it back up. I've also heard of people using crow's feet and getting it off, but the box wrench worked well for me. there's a write up here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ight=fuel+pump on how to get it out, scroll down about half way. Hope this helps!Robb
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ok, I have gotten the pump out and that was kind of a btch but I didn't throw any tools so all is good. The pump and the rod came out so I didn't drop anything inside the engine. I just need to get the new metal banjo washers then I think I am ready to put it back together and for gods sake I hope this was the source of the leak. Thanks for all you help.
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well now this is a pisser now. I just put on the new fuel pump and got it all back together and started the truck. Well the SOB is still leaking. It appears that the leak is actually comming out of the canister. Now I have read where people say the will crack or rot out. Mine doesn't appear to be rotted out but I am not sure about the cracks. I also know the snap ring and o-ring on the bottom of the canister can leak. I am going to pull out the canister (again) and look for the cracks. It is leaking pretty good so I would assume I would be able to see the crack. Is there a way to pressure test the canister. I don't know if a shop can do that or not. Any words of wisdom? Also I have heard those canisters are expensive so is there a alternative that will be a little cheaper?
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by hon147
well crap, I found a little hole in the bottom of the cannister. So do I have to buy a new one or would JB weld work in the hole. It is a small hole, what do you all think?
and see....dont cost much right?
next best is a junkyard for a used one...then after that, if you gotta buy a new one, thats almost 1/2 cost of a fuel system, I know if mine went, I would be looking at a fuel system instead, and get rid of the fuel pump and
and canister at once....not what you wanted to hear after doing a new fuel pump though right?...there may be other options I dont know about though...
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
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Originally Posted by rtxcoon
I have heard of some folks getting away with the JB weld, you could try it
and see....dont cost much right?
next best is a junkyard for a used one...then after that, if you gotta buy a new one, thats almost 1/2 cost of a fuel system, I know if mine went, I would be looking at a fuel system instead, and get rid of the fuel pump and
and canister at once....not what you wanted to hear after doing a new fuel pump though right?...there may be other options I dont know about though...
and see....dont cost much right?
next best is a junkyard for a used one...then after that, if you gotta buy a new one, thats almost 1/2 cost of a fuel system, I know if mine went, I would be looking at a fuel system instead, and get rid of the fuel pump and
and canister at once....not what you wanted to hear after doing a new fuel pump though right?...there may be other options I dont know about though...
J B will work fine , if you're still uncomfortable with it , you'll have time to look for a new one.....
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
Weld it. You need to go to weld shop that nows how to weld cast aluminum.
BTW: there was one on ebay a few days ago.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-...QQcmdZViewItem
BTW: there was one on ebay a few days ago.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-...QQcmdZViewItem
Last edited by Cuda_jim; Oct 6, 2007 at 10:13 AM.
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From: shiloh, kentucky
I have seen a few other fuel bowls sell, most bring pretty good. I have been thinking about Beans fuel system, selling the old bowl would off set this cost. HHHMMMM
Yes, welding is an option. I had a 4 wheeler crank case welded up. New cost was over 500, weld cost was 15. I went with the wed option. I had about 10 minutes machine work to clean up the weld but was like new.
Yes, welding is an option. I had a 4 wheeler crank case welded up. New cost was over 500, weld cost was 15. I went with the wed option. I had about 10 minutes machine work to clean up the weld but was like new.