Hey all, me again. This time I have a brakes issue. First off, I admitt, I don't know brake systems good, so please be patient on your answers. I'm not stupid, just ignorant on this subject. Now, with that open confession,here we go: when I apply good pressure on the brakes, I can feel a repeating click in the pedal, when it does this you can also hear a small growl(kinda sounds like the window motor, but is coming from either under the dash or firewall((kinda hard to decide while driving, lol)). Also during this it kinda feels like the truck is hyrdroplaning a little. So, that is the symptons, now if you can please start me on the train of thought, order of things and maybe how to check. Pads are worn, but not to point of replacing yet. And why we are talking, I also have a Honda Civic(97). The a/c isn't working during idle or low rpm. I am hoping some a/c specialists on here, and YES I am refrigeration certified, I do that work, but not automobiles. I tried the Honda forum and all I got was young punks with attitude, no knowledge of anything that don't pertain to anything other than cutting the shocks and adding an air induction system. For help, the A/c was checked by a buddy last year and he said charge was good, but was building up condenser head pressure without the rpm's, he thought filter drier, but I wanted some more opnions. With a/c on and idle the engine does struggle, but that is the high head pressure kicking the compressor out

 

Don't know enough about A/C to help with the Honda.

What you are describing with the brakes in the Bronco is normal under conditions where a wheel may slip. What you described is textbook operation of the anti-lock system. When a wheel slips, the system doesn't not release all pressure to that brake but rather applies that particular brake is very rapid succession which effectively reduces the constant pressure and allows the tire to regain some grip... theoretically. Now, the thing to be concerned with, is whether this is happening under otherwise normal braking conditions. If so, you may have a dirty sensor which can be cleaned or replaced (replacement is pricey). I personally loathe ABS and immediately remove power to the system any chance I get. To that end, I cannot be of much greater assistance in troubleshooting the ABS. I can tell you that if you are standing on the brakes hard enough that you might lock up a wheel even if you didn't have ABS, then its a good bet the system is working exactly the way it should.

 

Yes, this is happening under about braking conditions, once I apply enough pressure for the brakes to actually do anything to really start trying to slow or stop. And while this is happening the pedal feels extremely soft(during the clicking I feel) and the growl continues until I come to stop. I'm just wanting to fix it, before I actually NEED to stop quick. How many sensors do I have in the 93 eddie bauer, where are they all located?

 

One at each front wheel and one in the rear differential. I will tell you though, that unless you are having trouble with your cruise control or speedometer, the one in the rear diff is fine. There is a method of pulling Codes from the ABS computer but again, I am not well versed-enough in this particular part of the truck to advise you accurately. There are folks here who are though.

 

when i bought my bronco i had the same issues but my pedal would get very hard. ford scanned it and said something about a abs module but they no longer make it. so i just went under the hood and unplugged the abs right there by the steering box. and for your honda im having the same issue with my girlfriends. hers is a 97 integra i replaced the drier, expansion valve and the evap had it evaced and charged and it still blows warm at idle. start moving down the road and it gets cooler but not like it should. both fans and ac compressor are coming on as well when the ac is turned on. are your fans coming on? if they are kind of push on the center where the fan motor is and see if it stops not hard pressure but enough to put drag on the fan. maybe there is some belt slippage on the compressor

 

Oh you can still get your hands on the module. You don't want to pay the going rate for it when you can simply disconnect the system and have it operate like a conventional braking system... but you can get a module.

 

There is an ABS fuse in the PDC, pull it

 

Ok, so how will dissableing the abs effect the overall use, of the brakes. I know this sounds like a stupid question, but I just dnk. Would it make much more difficult to operate or decrease stopping ?

 

No change at all, except for the fact that the anti-lock computer and hydraulics will not function so it will never behave the way you described in your initial post. The system will simply behave like a conventional vacuum-assisted braking system. Be aware that it will NOT give you the so-called benefits of the anti-lock system so if a wheel does begin to lock up, it will lock unless you know how to properly apply the brakes to avoid the lock-ups from happening. (I say "so-called benefits" because I learned to drive conventional braking systems so anti-lock systems drive me nuts because they try to compensate for a wheel locking up and if you let off the brake when that happens the ABS just doesn't work. However, if you know how to drive a conventional braking system, you can feel when you need to back off on the pedal pressure and keep the wheel from locking up on you).