What are your normal EGTs while cruising, towing, WOT?

I got the truck back together yesterday (mods in sig) and was going down the road with the cruise set at 55mph and I noticed my EGTs at 6k, I thought this might be high but wasn't sure. Then I came up on a hill, not a large one probably 2-3% grade and 1/8-1/4 mile long, the EGTs rose to 9k. This seems very excessive to me. This was all on 80e so I jumped down to stock and my cruising egts jumped to 7k (I didn't pull the hill in stock).

I then found an open stretch of road and from a rolling start (about 15mph) I put it to the floor and by the time I was going 70mph the egts were 13k, I promptly let off.

I have stock exhaust minus the muffler, I am sure that 4in would help out but how much?

Sensor is in drivers manifold.

 

Well yes, 6 and 9k are pretty high.. haha.
You mean 6 and 9 hundred?

Your temps seem pretty on par.

 

Yeah 6000 would be melting a lot, lol

Temps seem to be around normal. RPM's are your friend to help lower EGT's for the most part.

 

With 4" turbo back exhaust... no cat... wot from slow start and i can watch the melt-o-meter climb to 1350* if i hold it to the floor till 70. Nothing behind me mind you.. i havent pulled with her yet...

Stock motor never had valve covers off.
398900ish on the ticker... were havin a bar b q when out flips to 400k.
The injector chatter is getting on my nerves... but this is my 1st diesel so im still learning to unlearn that weird noises mean something is wrong.
Contemplating the rail crossover mod... and a possible fuel bowl delete/replace with pressure regulator setup like some of the guys ...

To me your temps sound spot on

Xtof

 

Ha ha, ya that is hot, I am not thinking clearly tonight. Too worried about the water I found in the oil.

Thanks for the replies. I have a long trip coming up and just want to be safe.

 

WOT test on a steep grade with 80e. Note the yellow and red marks on the EGT gauge. Green means keep on going, yellow means don't cruise at that condition, red (triggers the LED alarm as well) means I'm on a stopwatch and I'd better get out of it soon.

WOT 80e 4in MAP good.MP4 - YouTube

 

Glad to see people are starting to understand why we recomend gauges when the tuner question comes up.

 

Is the red LED alarm a built in function to those gauges or did you rig that up yourself? I have Autometer gauges. I would love to rig up a bright light so if I am snoozing I don't miss it.

I suppose the gauge is just reading resistance on the sensor so if I knew what the resistance of the sensor was I could build a circuit to trigger a light.

 

Not correct...

You can cruise all day in the yellow and not hurt a thing. Please understand things before you post as fact. I see you do this time and time again...

IH says 1250* pre turbo max for sustained driving, meaning you can tow or work all day at or below 1250* without damage.

I can and will pull for hours across Wyoming at 1100+ degrees.

Those are built into the Isspro EV-2 or Performax gauges. Some of the best gauges if not the best you can buy.

 

April 3, 2012 3:47 AM - YouTube

Warning light pyro driving - YouTube

Update to warning lights.AVI - YouTube

Just a few videos of some Isspro gauges...

 

1251 degrees melts pistons but 1250 degrees is all good?

To the reader, CSIPSD has been doing this far longer than I have and has had much more experience. I have one EGT sensor on one exhaust manifold and I count on that one input and the balance/accuaracy to give me 600,000 more miles on the engine. My "green-yellow-red" is not gospel, but I'll be looking to keep the temps in the green in the event something with the gauge configuration is not 100% accurate. Towing up a hill? I'll push it into yellow because the hill will end. On the flat in cruise control? Naahh.... green for me. You call it.

 

1250* is where INTERNATIONAL put there red line... Its kind of like a corner that says 45mph... Sure you can take it at 45... but you can also take it at 65 without issue. Hell I took a few this weekend in a 2012 Mustang at 90...

Every stroke of the piston brings in cool fresh air. Every stroke of the piston it gets a nice shower with 200* oil, cooling it further.

You can tow ALL DAY LONG at 1200* and not hurt a damn thing, other then your pocket book from filling up the tank.

 

sure you CAN run it hot, but it will wear faster than if it was kept cool.
an engine has an RPM redline for the same reason, go past it, your pushing your luck.
those corner speed ratings are the same way. you might be able to do 90 around a 45, but if you take it at 45, you'll never have a problem.

i wouldnt run it at redline all the time either, sometimes yea, but not all the time.
under 1000 is great, IMO.

all in all, its up to you as to how high to push them. 1300 is generally the accepted high point. if IH says 1250, well....

 

the highest i see pulling is 1175 and that is way in the safe range.
and the thing about the 1250 has to do with the thermodynamics of the metal and heat saturation.

 

Surprisingly that is simply not true.