ive got a 93 f150 extended cab 4x4 and the other day i went to go start it and it didnt start. i can hear the fuel pumps turning on and my gauge lights come on but nothing when i go to actually start it, no clicking or anything. i replaced the starter solinoid and still nothing. i drive it everyday and ive been jumping the starter everytime ive gotta go somewhere by touching the 2 posts together. i was told that it could either be the wiring or the ignition switch, but i dont want to replace a bunch of things that dont need to replaced yet when theres still a problem somewhere else. anybody got any ideas on what it could be?

 

Could be a bad neutral safety switch (NSS), try moving the shifter to Neutral and see if it starts.

 

check the ground wire to the block

 

Ive tries putting it into neutral and starting it didnt help at all, and where exactly is the ground wire that goes to the block?

 

well if its a 5.0 or 5.8 it front passenger side bottom or if its a 4.9 top starter bolt

 

Am i looking for a wire in particular grounded to the block or frame? I seen that the wire that connects to the starter has been slpiced and reconnected using a wire clamp, could this be the cause of my problems?

 

And its a 5.0

 

The ground to the block will not keep the starter relay mounted on the fender from clicking when you turn the key to the start position.

Make sure you have a good body (not frame) ground from the NEG (-) post of the battery to the body.

 

If it aint grounded to the block good it wont click or do anything seen it happen first hand. Take if loose clean the block and cable put it back on hope this helps

 

I just posted a thread with the same problem on my f-250 with the 351W. I've been jumping mine too. I've also tried Neutral too with nothing.

 

Sorry but the current does not pass through the block when you turn the key to start to activate the starter relay.

Sounds like you were missing the body ground.

 

All the other ideas are very good suggestions. I have another. If there is not enough juice from the ignition wire then you can do one of two things. Reroute the ignition supply voltage to a stand alone relay that is tied directly into your batt. So when the key is turned full, the pwr from the ign closes the relay and the closed contacts of the relay supply direct voltage to where the ign wire once was routed to. The other is the manual toggle hot wire direct option. That one requires a spring load open toggle or a spring loaded button toggle. Of course check all wiring for issues before hand. I have done this several times on ign cyls that have either a bad ign contact or wires that are weak.

 

So would it be easier to just hook up a button in the cab to start it tht way? Like id have to run 2 wires from the posts of the starter solinoid to somewhere in the cab (wherever id have the button). I was also told it could be a bad ignition switch, so i guess my options r to either get a new ignition switch or to wire everything up so i can have tht button to start it. But if i did the button would i still have to put the key in the ignition and turn it before pressing the button to start it, or will it just start on its own?

 

Hey Mike
If you can locate the ing wire that routes over there if it had some voltage then its best to use it with the stand alone relay. You will need a place to mount the relay and then the relay coil is pulled in when the key is fully turned. I cant remember the relay I used. But once its pulled in by the fully engaged ing key it closed the relay that is pwr up with direct leads to the batt. Then that applies direct voltage to allow it to start.

I have not did a push button on your model so I would have to look into that further to give you a answer on that. But I would think its the same as most. The full turn of the key only pwrs up the inginition wire. When released the ckt opens and there is not power to the starter.

So I would think that if you wanted to run the push button you need disconnect the existing pwr wire to it to prevent any back feed and incase there is a ground issue in the ign.

I think I would locate the ign wire to it and then disconnect it and the have someone measure the voltage when the key is fully turned. If you ahve good voltage then you may have another problem or it may be that you are not measuring the load under a real load condition. You can show good voltage on the meter, but not pass enough DC amps under a loaded condition to draw it in.

I prefer the extra relay, method.

But you may look over everything and discover a bad wire too. So check it out and find the ign wire anyhow. You need to find it any which way you decide to go. I would also turn the key on (not in the start position but in the run position) and check the dc voltage on it. Should be ziltch (it has to be disconnected under the hood for that test). Then ohm it. You should get a open ckt with it disconnected under the hood. If not then you also have a short some where.

Hope that helps you make a decision.

edit add on
Dont overlook what subford posted, he could be on to something there too.