thanks..I'll give that a try.. I used 3 oclock and 9 oclock and wiggled it.... I appreciate your help....

 

Don't mention it! Let me elaborate on my last post. Use the 12 & 6 push and pull method to see if your bearing assembly has play. Use the pry bar method to check your ball joints.
The only trouble I had taking the bearing assembly off the truck was getting the rotor off the hub. It was stuck real bad. I ended up having to take the hub bearing assembly off tge truck with the rotor still stuck too it. I then used a sledge hammer with a piece of wood to hammer the rotor off the bearing assembly. Thinking back, I prolly should have uaed heat.

 

This tells me it could and prolly involve your tie rod and or the down link.
Also could be the ball joints.

 

There's a product you can buy at the auto parts store, caliper slide pin grease. It's very sticky high temp grease. A couple tubes is less than $10 and would be good to have before you start. Also, smear anti seize compound on the rear surface of the brake rotor before re-installing. Should help with the next time. Obviously, the anti seize goes around the lug nut studs, not the braking surface.

 

Yes very good tip. I did this as well.