I'd been planning to install a small-to-medium-sized 1-2hp air compressor for tire inflation and driving some impact tools.

However, despite the 225amp alternator and dual batteries, I'm afraid the van can't provide enough electrical power to meet any such compressor's starting wattage requirements.

I was careful to specify the Power Take-off Option (PTO) when ordering the van which, for some reason, seemed to be dropped from the vehicle by the time it made its way down the line.

Is it possible to retrofit a PTO kit at anything even resembling a reasonable price so I can at least harness some of the powertrain rather than relying solely upon whatever the alternator can produce?

 

I didn't think the PTO transmission was available on the van, but I could be wrong.

You can replace the trans with a PTO trans. It is not possible to update a non-PTO to a PTO trans, you have to replace it. As for reasonable price, it may be reasonable to some and outrageous to others. A PTO trans will probably be about $3k. A PTO setup to work with that trans is probably about the same amount. Some people would say $6k to get a PTO in their van is fine. I don't know if you would consider that reasonable.

There are also belt driven PTOs available. That might work out better for you.

 

Viair makes a family of 12/24V compressors that could be used with a hotdog 2 gallon tank (which mounts nicely to the vans) to deliver ~1cfm at 100psi. I have SEEN pairs/quads of them banded together to give about 2/4cfm at 90psi. They have an 'industrial' series that has a 100% duty cycle. Unless you are trying to run a field mechanic shop off of one, I am sure the 33% duty cycle units will get you done.

A better option might be an engine powered air compressor. Northern tool has a Honda powered unit that isn't totally awful for 800 bucks. If you wanna get fancy, you could probably hit up northern tool or similar and order a small electric start engine, use the aux fuel port on your van, some steel plate, an air compressor head, a tank, etc.

I just use a campbell hausfeld power pack, which is a generator, air compressor, and welder in one. It is also absurdly heavy.

My diesel E cutaway has a PTO on it. It isn't connected at the moment, however. I have never personally seen a gas ford with the PTO, except for some older superdutys with the wristshaker/standard transmission.

Edit: SEEN pairs/quads. I dont own any viair units myself.

 

i'll have to tell you about my air compressor setup in my work van and how it evolved. i work as a mobile auto mechanic, so i'm always running rattle guns and stuff off my system.
i started with a 26 gallon, 1.8hp, 150PSI harbor freight compressor. it works great if my extension cord has someone i can plug into. then i bought a 750w inverter to keep my power tool batteries charged and run small stuff. then i bought a porter-cable 6 gallon, 0.8hp, 150PSI compressor, and was happy to find that it ran off my inverter. i connected the 2 tanks together so the small one would fill the large tank as well. a couple weeks went by, and i was quite happy. then my inverter died, so i bought a 1500w inverter. around this time i upgraded from the stock 90-ish amp alternator to a 130a, with a 2ga wire from the alt to the battery, and a 2-0 gage wire from the battery to the inverter, replacing the 6ga cable i previously was using.
now with the system as it is, i can run things all day off my truck, BUT the idle speed is too low for the alternator to put out enough to keep up, so i have to force it to maintain a high idle. this has been done with a block of wood at the throttle, but i plan to set up a better method soon.

i just bought a 4d truck battery which i plan to mount under the body, and have its own 130a alternator, divorced from the rest of the truck's wiring, so i'm unable to kill my starting batteries by running my inverter.

i'm quite happy with my system, and i'm confident you would be too. if you didn't want to have such a large air tank inside, it wouldn't be too hard to either find a tank you can mount under the body, or make your own using several pieces of 4" iron pipe with caps on both ends, all connected at one end with 3/8" hoses.
also, if your truck has any room for another belt-driven accessory, you could mount a belt-driven compressor onto the engine.

 

The tiny WallyWorld battery in my 3 cylinder Metro claims 540 amps. Two of these batteries could provide 1080 amps. Volts X Amps=Watts. 12X1080=12,960 watts. Many "1-2hp" compressors have no problem "starting" on common 120 Volt, 20 Amp circuits, or 2400 Watts.

"225amp" x 12 volts = 2700 watts. More "electrical power" than a household 20 amp breaker.

Did FORD even offer a "Power Take-off Option" on E-Series vans that a customer could be "careful to specify"? When "ordering" a new FORD aren't the options specified part of a written/signed contract?

In the Believe It Or Not category, met a roofer who replaced a small noisy gas motor air compressor & its gas can, w/SCUBA tanks! There's really a significant quantity of compressed air, in a compact package, at 3000 PSI.

 

@club wagon, i've heard of people using CO2 bottles for mobile air supplies, as gas is cheap and pressures are extreme. that said, when i run low on air, i don't want to have to find someone to recharge my supply for me, i just want to turn a switch on and have all i need NOW.
on that note about my system, i forgot to mention that i have an automatic transfer switch, such that when my van is connected to "shore power", everything thats normally powered by my inverter switches over to shore power, and as soon as i disconnect that (or blow my host's circuit), everything except the big compressor is again connected to the inverter.

about the PTO, i can say i've only heard of them on manual transmissions and transfer cases, and considering that the modern e-series is ONLY offered in automatic and 2 wheel drive, the PTO is an unlikely option, though there may be a demand for it in a cutaway body. but mark posted above that there's an option of swapping the non-pto trans for a pto trans, implying there is an auto offered with the pto... i'd like more details mark if you don't mind

 

You are using 'cranking' amps. A car battery can supply cranking amps for only a very, VERY short amount of time. Most are rated to provide CA for 30 seconds, and will be at ~9.5-10 volts when done. What you really want is the amp-hour rating, at a rate you will pull amps.

For example, the Trojan 8d-AGM, a massive 180lb battery, provides 100 amps of power, for 2 hours before it is exhausted. You shouldn't exhaust batteries 100%, but 80% DOD while actually pretty deep is sustainable. So, ~1.5 hours at 100 amps. Factor in a high quality inverter (which can provide 90% efficency) and ignoring cable losses, you are looking at delivering ~900 watts for 1.5 hours. By the way, the CA of a single Trojan 8d AGM is 1900, and it can provide it for 180 seconds.

The 26R in your metro has a ~30-35 AH capacity at 25 amps draw, if it is a very high quality unit. It would supply that level of power for 65 minutes (the RC or Reserve Capacity) before being depleted to 80% DOD. It couldn't supply 220 amps to a 2000 watt compressor for 7 minutes before it was dead beyond starting the car. The faster you draw power, the less effecient a battery is.

Yup, at least on the diesels. I have one with a 4r100 and it has a black plate for a PTO to go right on the side. Its one of my farm trucks that i bought from a power company. Supposedly it was a 'bucket van'.
I have heard of nitrogen being used for this is well. Scuba tanks are a bit fragile, but if cared for could supply large quantities of 100psi air for a fair amount of time. I have seen them in 50 cf up to 149cf (the size I used when I dived, I'm an air hog). The only down side is most shops wont touch one if it hasn't been hydro tested in more than 5 years. It wont charge form your shop compressor, you are looking at 3000PSI. Paying a few bucks a fillup, plus 150 for a tank and regulator in decent shape. You only need the first stage though.

Overall, if you understand the limits, its a good idea.

 

I was told (may be wrong) that the PTO equipped 4r100s require different control logic than the non PTO models. Something about additional sensors, and solenoids. I do know that when my PTO equipped van munched its transmission, rebuilding with some new frictions and steels was the only option, and it wasn't all standard parts inside. I dont know about the newer 5r115w on vans, but i KNOW it has a PTO available. I have a 2010 F450 chassis cab that has a PTO.

 

Here's an alternate idea: VMAC | VMAC Home Page - Vehicle Mounted Air Compressors

It's a great idea for those of us wanting an on-board compressor. Of course the sad thing is nothing exists that fits our E-Series vans---yet. An email reply from the company says they don't feel van users numbers wouldn't support their development and tooling costs. I think that's complete bunk, have told them "IF you build it they WILL come........", all to no avail!

If this was someone's perfect solution and they're a good fabricator brackets and such wouldn't be a huge issue. This systems options and controls is one of the best I've ever seen. In fact I first saw this type compressor used on road service one ton pick ups by Goodyear fleet trucks.

I'd second the idea of a compressed gas bottle, the nitrogen idea being the best. Using a 72 cubic foot bottle and well protected regulator would give one helluva wallop and probably enough capacity for most jobs. No noise, no emissions and few moving parts----good idea if it can be safely incorporated. Just keep in mind 3,000 PSI is a missile waiting to happen under the wrong conditions! (Don't ask how I know this! )

I'm considering fitting one of the heavier duty 12 volt good quality compressors to my work van, have it charging a 5 or 10 gallon holding tank on my way to the next job. My needs are simply blowing dust and debris from my work areas (windshields) so massive pressures and CFM's aren't an issue. The only real challenge at the moment is the holding tank; what to get, where to install it out of my all-too-precious inside cargo space.

The PTO option would be nice as a new option or a re-fit. Perhaps the VMAC controls would work there too?

This should be an interesting discussion as it winds along..............

 

The 4R100 was offered with a PTO option in the F series. I don't think it was offered in the E series, but if you were to get a 2wd F series trans it is identical to an E series.

The PTO option on a 4R100 consists of an opening in the driver's side of the case. The opening is covered with a sheet metal plate from the factory. Inside is a gear that drives the PTO. All of the PTO hardware, other than what I described above, is available from the aftermarket. Ford doesn't sell it. Dealers might, they are not Ford, they are independent.

There are no additional sensors or controls required. The F series had an auxiliary PCM available that was used to raise idle speed to run the PTO. It isn't required, but it sure is handy. You can buy or make a rod that mounts to the steering wheel to hold the go pedal down a bit if you need a raised idle.

Nope, see above.

There are three differences between a PTO and non-PTO transmission.
1) The case is different because there is an opening to mount the PTO.
2) The coast clutch drum has a gear on the outside for a PTO trans, no gear for a non-PTO. The drums are interchangeable other than the gear.
3) The coast clutch has three plates in a PTO trans, two in a non-PTO. It is common for rebuilders that know what they are doing to change a non-PTO coast clutch to a three plate clutch for better durability. All that takes is changing the selective fit pressure plate for a thinner one.

Same as the 4R100. The 5R110 trans is available with or without the PTO option.

 

Gee, its almost like you know a little something about em

The case difference is what got me. The rebuilder indicated they had a hard time getting serviceable PTO transmission cases at a reasonable price.

My comment about the 5r110 is that I was unsure if E-series vans got the PTO equipped models. If they do, then I am unsure if the Gas models (which, of course, are the only ones currently available) get them.

 

And you cherry pick out of context. Remford said "despite the 225amp alternator and dual batteries, I'm afraid the van can't provide enough electrical power to meet any such compressor's starting wattage requirements". His applications "tire inflation and driving some impact tools" may only require compressor to run a few minutes per hour. I made no claim how long compressor would run before depleting batteries.

Oddly enough, a "compressor's starting wattage" is required "for only a very, VERY, short amount of time". Two large batteries used in E-Series provide truly enormous amperage. Remford need not be "afraid the van can't provide enough electrical power to meet any such compressor's starting wattage". My "starting wattage" comparison was between standard 20 amp wall outlet's 2400 watts & 12,960 watts from 2 tiny Metro batteries. Presume Remford's "van" batteries are in excess of 800 cranking amps each, nearly 20,000 watts total! IMHO "starting wattage" is not an issue, it's not even close.

Compressors & tanks can be extremely flexible. Most compressed air demands are also flexible. Every job does not need to use continuous high volume of air. In most instances a relatively small compressor & relatively large tank can alleviate need for massive amperage.

My antique 'plug in' 1 hp compressor is rated 17.8 amps, that's 2136 watts. Remford's "225amp alternator" would provide 2700 watts at 12 volts. Watts are watts. With an efficient inverter, a 1 hp compressor like this may be able to start & run continuously on "225amp alternator" alone. A 12V compressor would be more efficient, avoiding inverter loss.

Inverters are typically rated for continuous & dramatically higher surge wattages. Typical compressed air use requires intermittent supply, allowing compressor to catch up. When occasional continuous use exceeds compressor capacity most users are content to wait instead of adopting Bigger Hammer. If Remford had inquired about routinely needing to run a big sand blaster it would be a different story.

Cylinders for CO2, Nitrogen also must be "tested" & are every "bit" as "fragile" as SCUBA tanks. Some may argue SCUBA tanks are safer b/c of the SS valves. However, when considering any "down side" keep in mind SCUBA tanks hold breathable air, while a confined CO2 or Nitrogen release can suffocate you. Conversely "most shops wont touch" SCUBA tank unless you are certified to dive.

 

About the fragile issue; I was intending to point out (without getting technical) that there are still 6351-T6 AL tanks out there on the used market. I would expect that people would try to foist them on the inexperienced just looking for 'a tank.' If you had your tank tested (and you should, even if its not used for diving, its DOT law) they would warn you about the Sustained Load Cracking issue with the alloy.

 

After your battery discourse "(without getting technical)" this is somewhat amusing. Because of testing & certification requirements for SCUBA tanks it should be very difficult to fill any of those old defective cylinders. Note the specific alloy you refer was in limited use back in the 80's & lists of makes/models have winnowed out most of these tanks long ago. Reputable dive shops will not test or fill w/o checking against the list b/c of liability issues. SCUBA tanks made after '90 are OK.

Considering low cost of good used tanks on eBay & the price of scrap aluminum, I guess some "people would try to foist them" knowingly "on the inexperienced". Thanks for pointing out that unlikely possibility.

Selling matched pair of Catalina 80 cf, used in fresh water exclusively, for $200. About 1/2 cost of new. No Catalina tanks ever used 6351-T6 alloy.

 

Catalina is a good company. They took good care of me when one of my 5 year old tanks ruptured during hydro in the 90s.
A ocal pawn shop here (empire) has 4 walter kidde tanks that are X'd out, for 75 each.