Ok I was hoping it was only bad gaskets, but after mechanic got the heads off, both sides were definately cracked.. I have searched and found lots on blown gaskets, stretched bolts etc. Even read where others have cracked heads..But what is the reason? Engine getting hot? Just looking to make sure I fix it right so I don't have this happen again...
Doing new heads (obviously) ARP studs, dummy plugs, stand pipes, turbo cleaning, new Y pipe and going to delete the egr. cooler. Checking HPOP screen but it was replaced last summer with new oil cooler...

 

Casting flaws and heat cycles... The new Ford heads have induction hardened valve seats, so cracking should be reduced. I was pretty surprised, but happy, to find no cracks when I pulled my 103k '03 heads.

 

some types of cracks are normal to see, and the head can still be used. other types not so much. how good is your tech? does he really know what he's looking at?

 

That I am not sure of to be honest... What kind of cracks would be acceptable? Are they in certain locations? He did mention it is common to see them in this location?
Engine ran great, and as long as boost was below 25# I never lost any coolant at all even after several thousand miles...But pulling a light 2 place enclosed snow mobile trailer up a 18 mile grade at 29 # of boost (highest temps. 214*coolant; 228*oil I would lose a whole gallon of coolant out the degas bottle, that is the reason for the tear down. Was thinking stretching head bolts or head gasket...
Any information you can give me is greatly appreciated and I can go over and compare to my heads..I havn't looked at the heads yet but was thinking of going over tonight or tommorow and look at them..
I believe one of the mechanics use to work for a Ford dealership and specializes in the 6.0...The guy loves working on these engines...There current shop is too low of a ceiling for a floor hoist so they pull the motor out the front...

 

cracks coming from the glowplug area.. there is a bullitian on the subject

 

ManDoug Sorey to hear that about the Heads

Isnt it just Barley a Year since the Oil Cooler you did

 

Yes it is, I keep a service log book I could look in for the exact date and mileage but it is in the glove box....
When I baught the truck there was a mysterious 3 postion mini toggle switch with wire dead ending in the engine bay...I think the previous owner had a Bully Dog tuner. So that may be the source of my problems..I have had haunting water issues since day 1 of ownership...With gauges I got it narrowed down to continous high boost..
But I should be better than new after this repair, I will have replaced dummy plugs, stand pipes, going to go ahead and do a Sinister egr cooler delete, oil cooler replaced, hpop screen, FICM rebuilt by Ed with Atlas 40 installed, water filter installed,blue spring installed, new water pump, front cover,thermostat, idler pulleys and tensioners, both alts new,FASS clutch new,oh yeah and ARP studs..... I have a SCT unit and will get custom tunes from Matt. ( mercy that is a lot money spent) Will check on the head cracks before replacing them, Thanks for the advice Cheezit..
Really I am glad for the advice and information on this site, as I am more aware of what to monitor and watch for. Guys like you, Cheezit, Bismic, and Tex 25250, ( is that the right sig.?) Mark Kovalsky, have helped me a lot...

 

Doug With all that stuff you might have to Buy a NEW Service Log Book for it to fit LOL

Will be good to go for along time

 

well, hydraulic lock will break most things.... and if you got it good and
hot and blew the head gaskets and got enough water into the combustion
chambers to fill them, or close to filling them, then you get the thing best
described as tinkey, tinkey, bang. water doesn't compress well.

cast iron is pretty stable and doesn't move around like aluminum does,
so it's a good choice for heads, but it doesn't flex worth a damn. it just
cracks. i've been told that the 6.0 heads crack a lot around the valve
seats, so rather than do a piecemeal repair, i just that the valve seats
machined ad inserts put in.

 

I'm still amazed my Ford mechanic performs ARP studs with the engine in and cab on.

He claims it takes a little longer but it isn't that big of a problem

So i asked for pictures in about 3 to 4 hours had both heads off..





D n Dallass

 

if you get ahold of rick he still may have pics from one I did. less then 5 hours to remove an enigne and have heads off. not that bad after you have done a few 100 of them.

 

A few hundred. LOL

 

Have you ever checked the rad cap to see if it would hold the correct pressure?
Also do you have a cracked degas Bottle?

 

Yep, I even installed a new cap to be sure. Pressurized the degas and cooling system to 16 lbs and it held steady overnight..
Went and looked at the heads tonight and they are cracked from the glowplug hole clear thru the valve seat to the stem hole..
So the new heads are now on and arp studs installed. But the heads cost me 1,463.00 ea.....Ouch..... I looked to see if they had gold plating but didn't find any.....lol...