I had a truck several years ago that I put a 4" lift on it. I was a home depot project once in a while type of person back then. The lift wasn't to bad, but at time's it was a PITA. I now have a stocker which I will be putting on a ready lift 2.5" maybe with 285 or 34's. That is it, it will have some appearence but will still be usable and not a PITA to use the bed.

 

From the minute I first saw a SuperDuty in 1999 I knew I wanted one and nothing was gonna stop me from lifting it, this is what allows me to put up with breaking my *** everytime I put something in the bed. If your thinking lift to join the crowd you will regret it, anything taller than 4" is even worse.... but they look awesome!

 

4" lift with 35" tires here. I plow, tow and haul with mine. Loading my ATV sucks but other than that it has been fine for everything else. I just have a small stool to help out if I have to get in and out a lot.

 

I have an 8" lift in mine, but I don't use my truck for work. Practicality played no part in my decision to lift my truck and I absolutely love the way it looks now and all the complements I get on it too. Someone else said it as well, but I use a 7x12 foot utility trailer when I need to haul stuff other than small things that I can toss into the bed. My biggest issue with the 8" lift is I have a hard time getting into the bed. I climb up the side using the tire as a step. No regrets!!!

 

9'' and 40s. I haul 45 gallon drums for my spray foam rig in the back of my truck frequently. My moto bike and other odd ball items. It is a pain at times but i wouldn't trade it for nothing. I guess it all depends on how tolerant you are lol.

 

There are so many factors when considering a lift kit for the Super Duty. What "type" of activity is planned for the truck... daily driver, towing, off-roading?

Going to taller tires will provide greater ground clearance for off-roading but the Super Duty is limited by the wheel well size. The GEN1 (1999-2004) and GEN2 (2005-2007) have the smallest front wheel wells and IMO are limited to 36" maximum tall tires. The GEN3 (2008-2010) and GEN4 (2011-Present) have larger front wheel wells and can accommodate 37" maximum tall tires. All Super Duties (1999-Present) have the same size rear wheel wells, which is another limiting factor in accommodating taller tires.

To provide proper tire clearance, you have two options: Lift Kit and/or Cut-Out Fender Flares. For example, if I wanted to run 38" tires on a GEN1 or GEN2 Super Duty having 33" OEM tires, I could install a 7"-8" lift kit for proper tire clearance. However, if I were to install cut-out fender flares, I would only need a 2.5" leveling kit.

What are the differences between these two options?

A quality 7"-8" lift kit will cost between $2,000 to $3,000. The truck will have a much higher center of gravity. The height of the truck will increase 2.5" from the new tires (38"-33"/2) and 7"-8" due to the lift kit. That's a total of 9.5"-10.5" of additional lift.

A quality 2.5" leveling kit will cost between $800 to $1,200. The truck will have a minimal increase in the center of gravity. The cost of the cut-out fender flares will be between $800 to $1,200 depending on if you paint them. The height of the truck will increase 2.5" from the new tires (38"-33"/2) and only 2.5" due to the leveling kit. That's a total of 5" of additional lift.

The reality is that it is cheaper and more efficient to use cut-out fender flares and a minimal lift/leveling kit when installing 37" and taller tires. You maintain a much better center of gravity and truck height for day to day use.

 

This guy has a 2.5" leveling kit and 38" tall tires:


This guy has a 6" lift kit and 38.5" tall tires. He could have easily used a 4" lift kit and maybe even a 2.5" leveling kit.


This FTE member has a 2.5" leveling kit and 37" or 38" tall tires.


Painting the cut-out fender flares would make them much more low profile.

 

I guess it is all about what you like. I dont think trucks look good with small lifts and big tires jammed into the wheel well but everyone has different tastes and there's nothing wrong with that. I'm running 6 1/2" pro comp with 37"s and LOVE it!!!

 

 

The reality is that there is much more clearance with the cut-out fender flares... the tires are not "jammed into the wheel well." Look at the clearance of the pics I posted versus your clearance, especially the rear wheel wells. Under extreme flex, your tires will rub and possible damage the wheel wells. It's not just taste, it a matter of functionality.

BTW, great looking Super Duty!

 

I disagree ..and the suspension companys put alot of design work to make them work..mine only rubs on full lock on leaf spring only because they are 13.5 wide..no rubbing anywhere else..

 

I couldn't handle rubbing on the leaf springs. I have over 1" clearance to accommodate tire chains. If you moved your tires our to eliminate the spring rub, you would get closer to the fender and bumper when the tires are turned. Hit a bump offroading and that will trim that opening for you, so you don't need cutout flares

I said this already, but I'll say it again. For a true offroad rig and not a mall crawler, cutouts are the way to go. Tire clearance without raising the center of gravity. Who cares if you can clear them driving around on the street, I want to be able to stuff the tire up to full compression, wheel cranked, with snow chains on.

 

If you read the op he simply asked guys with lifts if they are still practical. Specifically he wanted a 6 or 8 in lift. I am not on here to argue how you build your offroad truck. I just was giving my opinion on mine with a 6 1/2 lift. It is not a mall crawler, it is as capable of a work truck as any other I have had if not more. It even is regeared with 4.56 gears. I pull my bobcat, 26' camper, boat, enclosed trailer and I also haul alot of firewood. Just because someone keeps there truck clean doesnt mean they just drive it for show. And to the op yes it is a little inconvienent but to me worth it, to someone else, maybe not.

 

Do you have any idea what offset rims he's running? I have a 2003 f250 with 2.5" pro comp leafs and 16x10 Mickey Thompson classics, they have a 4.5" off set, I was told 35s would rub on my leafs? I'd like to run 35-37s

 

4.5" is backspace, not offset. Backspace is only useful if you also know wheel width. Offset is a good indicator because it is the measurement of the hub face to wheel center. You're 10" wide wheels with 4.5" backspace are a -25mm offset, which is plenty for 35" tires up to about 13.5" width. You could run a 37x12.5 and the tires would be about the same distance from the leaf springs at full lock. Rubbing on the fender opening is another story, more negative offset (wheel/tire sticking out further) will result in more fender rubbing, but less leaf spring rubbing.