I couldn't find any mention of a blue/white wire (implying a blue base with a white tracer stripe).

In fact, I couldn't find the word white mentioned anywhere (although it may have been in an image).

In any case, look at the 6-pin wiring connections for both the distributor-mounted module as well as the remote-mounted one, the wiring is exactly the same on both.

So, I'd use the #1 pin (top one (PIP)) despite the color of the wire. I don't think the signal locations on the pins ever changed in the history of this thing.

 

Now the voltages it is referring to are DC voltage correct? I know its something I should know...

 

Yes, measure DC voltages.

 

Well I did some digging and what I have read is that the PIP signal is actually a AC current. According to wikipedia it is AC as well...

 

Then why did you ask?

Also, when you make claims like you did ("I read that the earth is flat"), you should always include a reference to the source of your information.

"Cite your sources," as the teachers say in school.

In this case, it'd be a hyperlink to the Wikipedia entry you claim states this.

To my knowledge, the only AC current anywhere in an automobile electrical system built in the last ~75 years is that created by the alternator, this current is then immediately converted into DC.

A generator is used on older vehicles to directly create DC voltage.

HowStuffWorks "Understanding Alternator Power Output"

If it were true that AC voltage is used in the automobile ignition system, this would be common knowledge and I would expect to see it documented in more places than a single Wikipedia entry.

 

It says basically the same thing as wikipedia but this is where I first read it:

Ford EDIS PIP & SAW automotive waveform captured using a PicoScope automotive oscilloscope

It says that is for a distributorless system. Not sure if that makes a difference.

 

Ok feel free to ignore my last post. I found a new procedure for testing the remote mounted TFI system. Here is the link:

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200342

Following the procedure outlined in the last steps of his walkthrough, I tested the PIP signal with an LED like shown and a multimeter. The LED blinked like it was supposed to while cranking. I couln not see any blinking while at idle, so I hooked up the multimeter on DC voltage and it read out 7.7-7.9v that was fluctuating on a steady pattern. I want to say the PIP sensor itself is good. Am I correct?

His walkthrough says that if the LED blinks the TFI needs to be replaced. My truck runs unlike his so I don't need to replace it do I?

 

Sorry I can't help, but I like the persistence. I have a project coming up on mine and hope I can stick in there too.

 

Trucks been serving us for 14 years. If it needs some part here and they, you can be sure it will get them. Never let us down once. Hell even with the PIP fault code it still runs great. Just want to fix whatever is wrong with it...

 

I tried to reply earlier today but site problems kept that from happening.

I want to first apologize if I came off sounding like jerk there; I just re-read my message and can see how it could be construed that way, it wasn't my intention to sound like a jerk if it seemed that way.

Do some investigation and make sure you don't have the distributorless EDIS system (in your first link, where you read about AC voltage used there). I really doubt you have that but it doesn't hurt to be certain.

This site will tell you a bit about it, see if you have spark plug wire connections that looks like this:

Ford EDIS technical information - Autosport Labs

That 2nd link from FSB looks to be a good one, I will have to look closer at it sometime soon as my own DD is having hot-start problems reminiscent of a failing TFI module.

But, remember.... The premise of those instructions is to figure out a no-start problem. I would think the procedures there should work for doing an initial, brute-force test (working or not, 100% either way) of your PIP sensor if the voltages being provided are correct.

I don't know enough about testing the PIP circuit with voltage as the measure, I'm more familiar with using an ohmmeter on the device itself.

Nevertheless, your diagnosis so far seems pretty good to me in that it appears to be doing its job, but, at the right times and with the right strength? The voltage - if what we see on these sites is correct - would imply the strength is good.

Remember, your computer seems to think there are issues receiving signals from that device (signal was erratic or missing) and you say the wiring is good, so..........

I would imagine you're not getting any blinking at idle because it's simply blinking too fast - was the LED constantly lit?

Is your engine running poorly at all (especially after it warms up and runs for a while)?

The TFI module can be tested at many parts stores - there are even ohm measurements in Chilton manuals - but finding heat-related problems is hard.

Have you looked for steve83 and looked for TSBs on your truck?

My DD will start and run great while cold, it will even continue that way for quite some time. If I let the engine heat up to full temperature, shut it off and try to re-start it within an hour or so, it will sometimes fail to start (or stay running after starting). My computer isn't throwing any codes, though, which is pointing me at the TFI module....

 

The LED was constantly on at idle. The truck starts and runs good. I do notice that when I come to a stop for more than 5 seconds the truck will start a pattern where every 3-4 second the engine will shake fairly hard for ~1 second then stop. RPM's don't drop an it doesn't try to stall. Just the shake.

And I know steve is over at fordf150.net. He's not on often and when you try and pm him he doesnt respond. I'll try a post over there to see if he replies... And no tsb's that I could find...

 

Well I went out and bought a Haynes Manual to replace my Chiltons wheel chalk. Ran throught the PIP testing procedure and it passed with flying colors... So Im not sure why I got the 211....

 

Look at the definition of what error code 211 is: DTC 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.

You will never see two or more successive missing PIP pulses without using an oscilloscope and be lucky enough to catch it.

Some possible causes of DTC 211:

-- Loose wires/connectors.

-- Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).

And a third one listed in my service manual:

-- On-board transmitter (2-way radio).*

*Verify all radio and condenser installations. Carefully follow manufacturer's installation instructions regarding the routing of antenna and power leads.

 

Well never thought if it like that. Ill go through and check connections and wires. And I think ill try to get some money together and buy a new cap, rotor, coil and wires along with new plugs. Not sure when they were last replaced...
And no two way radio here....

 

I like your thought process