You can get the shorties with the 3.0L, and 4.0L was only a special order (very rare). The extended models came with either 3.0L or 4.0L engines. The AWD only came in the extended body, unless someone ordered one in the short body from the factory (rare), and was always coupled with a 4.0L. Almost all shorties will be ordinary 3.0L 2WD models. More than half the extended bodies are 3.0L as well, and not all of the 4.0Ls have the E4WD by any means. Certain styles will be more common in certain areas, for example, where I live in Utah, we get moderate levels of snow, and depending on elevation, you can get heavy snow. As a result, it is not common to find a 2WD 4.0L, most 4.0L equipped went all out and added the AWD as well.

Freeze plug is still the common term, event he early freeze plugs did not live up to their name, they were casting plugs too, and might pop out if the coolant froze, but sometimes they wouldn't or sometimes the block could split anyway. Regardless, the metal they are made from is designed to be sacrificial, so that if corrosion does occur, the block doesn't get the worst of it.

My parents used to have a '92 3.0L extended body in two tone and the blue interior. My mom currently has a '95 4.0L 2WD extended body. I personally have owned two 4.0L AWD extended bodies. My family has never owned the a shortie, just never saw the point in owning one without the cargo space.

You can get Aerostars with a manual trans. To my knowledge you could only get that with the 3.0L, and they were rare, most dealers wouldn't stock them and to get one was special order. The manual trans was only available with 2WD, the Dana 28 transfer case does not mate to the M50D trans. In theory, if you could fabricate a tail housing to match the Dana 28 to the M50D, there is no reason why the AWD wouldn't work.

I would assume that most ads touting a shorty as a 4.0L are incorrect listings, 4.0L engines in a shortie are extremely rare.

 

The threaded pipe plug on the base of each bank must be a core drain plug then. That's what I've always used them for.

FYI, the back of the 4 liter engine has a large metric sized plug that seals the hole behind the cam shaft. Below that is also a pipe plug, which I've never opened up before, so I'm not sure what that is.

 

wow, a shorty with a 4.0 liter would be a hot rod if I ever did see one!

 

the reason I asked is that I am being offered an extended XL with a 3.0 liter and I wonder if the 3.0 can cope with the larger (assumedly heavier), extended body. I had never seen a 3.0 liter Extended, so I am ignoramus in this department. My two previous shorties were 3.0 liter and their 3.0 engine was more powerful than my Jag's engine, not to mention more economical, fuel wise. What I hate about the 3.0 liter is the unreliable A/C compressor, the 4.0 liter has a different A/C compressor mounted high above the water pump, the 3.0 liter has the infamous FS-10 compressor mounted low next to the oil pan. I had nothing but troubles with the FS-10, didn't last, I hate it.

 

The 3.0L is overworked in any size Aerostar, its paltry 145hp means it has to strain constantly, the added weight of the extra length doesn't help. They are reliable enough don't get me wrong, we got nearly 200,000 out of my mom's '92. However along the way, it had constant cooling and ignition system problems. It could produce enough power to get out of its way, but only at the mid to high RPMs. When I got my first 4.0L, I realized that the 4.0L accelerates better, often without more than just cracking the throttle, and as you add weight, you don't notice it nearly as much as with the 3.0L.

The extra power over your Jags is because of more advanced technology, but if you get a good 4.0L you will wonder how you ever coped with a 3.0L.

I find both engines to be overall reliable, but the 4.0L come stock with better radiators, the accessories are better laid out, the 4.0L is just barely easier to change plugs on (the block is slightly narrower), because it has more low end you don't have to use as much throttle, so often the fuel economy is not that different. The 4.0L comes with a slightly better transmission with stronger internals. Most 4.0L models come better equipped because the engine was an upgrade anyway, so it was natural for the buyer to request other goodies as well. The 3.0L comes with sequential fuel injection good for gas mileage, but only '96 and newer get the EDIS-6 ignition. The 4.0L has EDIS-6 ignition from the start. The advantage to this is is is easier to maintain, no adjustments are needed, and so long as the proper plugs and wires are used, it is more reliable than the distributor based ignition on the 3.0L.

The weaknesses of the two. Both engines will blow head gaskets if overheated, the 4.0L is a little less forgiving. Both engines have crappy exhaust valve seats. Both engines like to crack cylinder heads, and the cylinder heads on both are only good for 120,000 - 150,000 miles. Both engines have restrictive heads, and should produce more horsepower than they do.

The 4.0L does have an extra weakness the 3.0L doesn't. The pushrods and rockers are not well lubricated, which causes lifter noise, and over time also causes the valves to not open fully. The correct compensation to prevent the issue is for starters, always use the proper weight oil, 5W30. A heavier oil causes a greater delay and reduced oil flow, which accelerates the lifter wear. Use only quality oil filters, cheap filters can shed small fibers and go into bypass prematurely, allowing gunk and varnish to restrict the oil galleries that feed the lifters, increasing wear.

The best years of the Aerostars regardless of engine are '96 and '97. The '97 often had a cheapened interior, but mechanically is superior to all others. The '96 3.0L got EDIS-6 ignition and a better computer which allowed them to pick up an extra 5 hp. The trans is electronically controlled, a design introduced in '95. Subtle changes throughout. The 4.0L got a redesigned head in '97 that allows more power and torque overall, and reduces ignition timing, which solved the pinging problems previous years had been known for. The new cylinder head design was less likely to crack, but unfortunately like all Ford cast heads with flame hardened seats, they start wearing out prematurely just like all the other years. The '97 also saw the introduction of the 5R55e transmission in the 4.0L AWD model, the 3.0L got a 4R44e and the 4.0L 2WD got a 4R55e, both more advanced more reliable electronic versions of the A4LD found in previous years. The way the model number is decoded is the first number is the number of forward gears, the second letter denoted rear wheel drive, and the last two are a torque rating with the 44 being rated for roughly 440 ft/lbs of multiplied torque, and the 55 being 550 ft/lbs of multiplied torque.

The real issues I've found to look for on buying a used Aerostar is firstly, body condition. Vans with crushed or rotted rocker panels are best avoided. This tells you several things. One its an expensive fix, and second, this kind of damage is often caused by unskilled mechanics who lifted the vehicle on a 2 post lift without using the proper lift points. If they can't be observant enough to not crush the rockers, one could expect the same lack of attention to their mechanical work as well. It is best to walk away from a van that has body rot, unless thats all that can be found in your area.

Secondly, check the coolant condition. If it has fresh green antifreeze, thats a good sign, it is is even slightly brown, you should look at other options. Look at and smell the antifreeze. If it has a burnt smell, this has a neglected trans. If it has any sign of not being a clear pink, this indicates poor maintenance. If it is in excellent condition, then the owner likely takes care of the vehicle. Same with all other fluids, including the often neglected power steering. It should be pink and clear, if its brown or milky, the vehicle needs the fluid changed out and may have issues with the rack and pinion later on.

One to the interior. Twisted seat frames can be fixed, but try to avoid ones with twisted frames or torn seats. Rear AC is desirable, as are rear captions chairs. The center console option is garbage. They are cheaply made and only work well as a cassette storage. Check for signs of leaking windows. Make sure both power windows roll up and down. Check for smooth slide door operation walk away from vans that have had obvious modifications to the slider latch mechanisms.

 

yes indeed, I am aware of the rocker panel issue and that's the first thing I look for, an intact rocker panel "lip", throwing a beach towel on the ground and getting under the van with a bright lamp. I too want the 4.0 liter if only for the different A/C compressor which appears to be more long-lasting than the infamous FS-10. In other words, I am looking for a mint condition Aerostar Extended 4.0 liter, and if at all possible, the Eddie Bauer version with original factory paint, without any body damage or repairs. Needle in the haystack I know, but I'll tell you this story: I spent 9 years looking for an intact 1960's Jaguar S type, and it paid off, I found it in a warehouse in San Francisco, Calif.

I travelled East, West, North and South looking at many misrepresented S type, (sellers have a nasty habit of using 10 or 15 year-old pictures in their ads). Until one day in 2004 I found this unpretentious ad without pictures that said: "1965 Jaguar S type for sale, 1 owner since new, no rust, phone number".

I asked for pictures and I couldn't believe it. I asked the owner for more pictures and to place a specific date NY Times newspaper on the hood, take a picture and send it to me, I purchased the newspaper for the same agreed date. He sent me the picture. The condition was real. I flew to San Francisco one morning and bought it. Drove it 2,900 miles back home with only a flat tire in Texas. Best ride I ever had!

I'll find the Aerostar I want. Recently I've looked at Astros, Safaris, and Ventures, Silhouettes, and Montanas but I refuse any front wheel drive cars, and there is something about the Astro that I don't like. Japanese and Korean minivans are also out of the picture.

Thank you for all the information, you've reassured me of exactly what I am looking for.

 

That plug at the base of the block is just the block coolant drain plug. The core plugs were only the cupped plugs installed to fill the holes where they removed the casting sand. Since the core plugs technicaly were designed to last the life of the engine - until rebuilding that is, and given proper coolant maint - , this was the way to change the coolant / drain the coolant.

The small pipe plug(s) - there may be more than one depending upon the engine design - on the back of the block are traditionaly oil passage plugs, installed to seal up the drilled oil passage, but also removable to clean the passage when remachinging the block when rebuilding. Same with the large pipe plug, although that sometimes is a cupped plug instead on other engien designs, but in all cases, plug or threaded it is designed to seal up the opening where the block is machined for the camshaft bearings.

David