That's what I did as well. I used a 2x4 but it did the job. If I recall correctly I put some wood blocks between the motor mounts and cross member.

 

You guys are right, I might have used a piece of wood on the oil pan flange and bolts... It's been a while

 

I got the idea from you Art so you must have!

 

Aw geez, I'm blushing ...

 

Guys,

I made some good progress last night. I was able to remove 2 of the last 4 remaining bolts and now have the drivers side manifold off.

2 left on the pass. side.

One of the studs is broken off 1/4" below the surface of the head. I have the tools to remove this but am going to use PB blaster for a day or so while I work on the other side.

 

Progress!

I really didn't see any evidence for me that pb blaster did anything for me. I had one broken off in the head that I drilled through and then sprayed bp blaster through the hole several times overnight, when I got it out there was no sign it had gotten into the threads.

Couple things...

I used a pick on an empty hole as a depth gauge, if you compare to a stud removed whole I found I had something like 1/4" of space behind the stud and the back of the hole. So when I took a drill to it I was able to check my progress in little steps, then feel the bit come out the back side into the space. If you go crooked and dont hit the space square on the gauge will tell you to stop. If you do this I'd make your own measurements just to be sure of course.

I had given up on a couple and was ready to either drill them out and tap to a bigger size or put in an insert. I started stepping up through left handed drill bits and in general that was what I had the best success with. That 2nd or 3rd bit would bind in the previous bits hole and turn it out. Got a couple with easy-outs also. Had one I welded everything I could find to and then promptly broke whatever i welded to off. Figured it was not coming out, couple left handed bit sizes later and it was in my hand.

Also I had to cut down a couple drill bits to fit the space with a cutoff wheel.

Also also, I took a grinding stone to some broken off proud of the head to make them nice and flat before I started drilling.

I got nice left handed bits and matching easy-outs from mcmaster carr, also the flange head bolts I used to replace the studs from them.

 

it wasn't easy to do but all I had to work with was an arc welder. put a slightly larger nut over the stud hole and filled the hole with weld right into the nut. the combination of heat and something to grab the couple I did this to came right out.

 

Success, yes success!!

All 20 of the studs are now removed.

Bolt-off (aka nut extractors) from Sears was the tool for the nuts, while stud extractors fininshed off the studs above the heads.

The left handed drill bit got deep enough for the easy out on the last broken stud a 1/4" below the head. It was really something to finally see it turn out.

A big thanks to everyone posting including Krewat and 3cv.

All these little tips helped a ton.

Raising the motor
Taking off the shocks and mounts
The right tools for the job!!

But most of all thanks again to the F.T.E. posters. I really don't think I could have got-r-done without all the help.

 

Neilc88, Thanks for posting your success story. Good to follow along. Good for others in the future. Don't loose hope. LOL

 

Well, I'm in the same boat as some of you guys, but I'm down to my last stud. Drilled a 1/8" hole all the way thru the remains that are left in the hole, stuck a #2 screw extractor in it and got a few swings on it, then the screw extractor broke clean off. I know these things are made of hardened steel or of a treated alloy. I've ruined plenty of drill bits trying to get another hole in it but to no avail. Anyone have a clue if a titanium coated bit will work? What's next?
I really dread having to pull the cylinder head just for one lousy stud but I'm running out of tricks. What has worked for some of you guys and how did you accomplish it?
P.S. I run this as a commercial truck and exhaust leaks can get me PARKED by DOT. Skipping this bolt is not an option.

 

You aren't drilling it with a left hand bit are you? Right hand bit to get the extractor extracted, left hand bit to get the stud extracted.

If you get the extractor out of it, I'd get a couple more left hand bits and make the hole bigger for a bigger extractor, and you stand a good chance of pulling it while drilling.

 

Like 3cv said.

I used a Sears #3 screw extractor after using the left handed bit on the other end of the #3 extractor. The Sears kit said to only drill 1/16" into the stud and that is what I did.

You may need to try the arc welder at this point.

 

Don't use the extractor. Use the reverse (left hand) drill bits to get the studs out.
Drilling the studs is a pain but drilling the extractor is much worse.

 

just in the process of doing mine. Had three broke below head on drivers side and six on passenger side. The left handed cobalt bits worked the best all turned out but two.
just have exhaust to connect and inner fender to install. The left handed cobalt are the way to go.

 

Well, I yanked the head yesterday and carried it up to a cylinder head repairman in Minneapolis today. He will drill/bore out whatever is left in the hole. He says he will have to install a 10mm stud cause the hole is so fubar (my bad). He will also drill out the exhaust manifold hole to still allow for expansion. Should have it back tomorrow. TTYL