1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Vacuum and Electrical questions

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Old 08-22-2013, 10:25 PM
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Vacuum and Electrical questions

Hey guys,

A couple questions. I was digging Around under the dash and trying to reconnect things. The vacuum gauge runs to a t connector in one of the pictures. I disconnected the hose and there is little to no pressure.

Neither of the temperature gauges work and they are plugged in. How would I troubleshoot this?

Also should the battery gauge always be connected? Or should it just be powered when the ignition is on?

There is a wire taped up that doesn't go anywhere near the distributor in one of the pictures, can anybody figure out what it is?
 
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Hey guys,

A couple questions. I was digging Around under the dash and trying to reconnect things. The vacuum gauge runs to a t connector in one of the pictures. I disconnected the hose and there is little to no pressure.

Neither of the temperature gauges work and they are plugged in. How would I troubleshoot this?

Also should the battery gauge always be connected? Or should it just be powered when the ignition is on?

There is a wire taped up that doesn't go anywhere near the distributor in one of the pictures, can anybody figure out what it is?
Pics, pics, pics! C'mon son, you'll need to be more descriptive than that. Give us wire & trace colors or look-em up in the wiring diagrams!:

Vacuum.... These things didn't come with vacuum gauges so it's an aftermarket, right? It's not supposed to have positive pressure but rather negative pressure (vacuum). Suck on the hose and does it make the vacuum gauge move? Where is the other side of the tee connected to??? Is it even connected to anything?

Temp gauges... it is getting power? Ground the signal lead supposedly feeding the signal and the gauge should peg out.

Wire? We don't see a wire that its taped up. Please post the wire & trace color.

Ammeter... works only when ignition is on. Sometimes it doesn't appear to move so I don't trust them the least. In fact, I totally ignore it if it's not "normal" and it least doesn't give me a bad reading.

Part of owning/operating these rigs is being a sleuth about it. Post questions only until you've at least done some homework which can help us help you. Your question leads me to believe FTE was your first stop when it really shouldn't be. 'Not busting your nards.. just trying to help you understand how to best go about getting help.

Resource:
Wiring Diagrams:http://www.fordification.com/tech/schematics_h.htm
Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section I - Electrical and Wiring
 
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:28 PM
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Totally forgot to attach the pictures! Vacuum + Electrical - Imgur

Then the aftermarket ammeter must have been wired incorrectly. I will have to redo that.

I have been digging around about the vacuum but am not sure what to call the hose that it is connected to. It comes off the carb but haven't been able to research more.

Most of the wires seem to have been replaced so I'm just trying to decipher what is what. I can't always tell what is original.

I normally just come here after running out of swear words and hit dead ends. I'm sure as I learn more I will last longer and longer without coming here.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:41 PM
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That's a voltmeter, not ammeter. Any hot wire and ground works for that. Should be wired to only work when key is on. It will read battery voltage, usually 12-12.5v with just key on, and 14-14.5v when running.
 
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:11 AM
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It looks like the after market temperature gauge is mechanical. Trace the hose for the vacuum gauge; it should be connected to the back of the manifold not the carburetor.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:53 PM
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I'm back on this. I've been reading around and I think I understand how the automatic choke works. (The air creating a vacuum/closing the choke, etc.) but I am confused on the parts. I circled the 2 parts that I think have to do with it. Name:  cjGVUgQ.jpg
Views: 12
Size:  197.6 KB

The part circled in red is the vacuum plunger that either opens or closes it? And the part circled in green does the opposite? Am I on the right track?

Also that t connector is the one that connects to the vacuum gauge, so I assume that is incorrect because I never get a reading even thought I know the vacuum gauge is working.


-Aidan
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:49 PM
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I have never seen a carb with both. They are both choke pull-offs. They open the totally closed choke flap a little bit when the engine starts.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:02 PM
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I will take a better picture when I get home today. I might be mistaken on the second pull-off.
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:20 AM
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Got some more pictures.

Here is the passenger side:

Name:  UvpGBtJh.jpg
Views: 10
Size:  161.3 KB

There is supposed to be a spring inside that plastic black part correct? Does the spring push the choke closed, and then the vacuum cylinder pulls it open?

Here is the drivers side:

Name:  cqdQ574h.jpg
Views: 12
Size:  107.8 KB

I'm a little confused because that side also looks like it could have a choke pull-off.


Also I'm still confused on why the vacuum gauge taps into that hose on the carb. Should it be tapping into the larger black hose in this picture?

Name:  TAU3yUuh.jpg
Views: 11
Size:  98.9 KB


Thanks!
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:47 PM
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The part you circled in green is a choke pull off.
There is no spring in that black cap because that is an aftermarket manual choke add-on. That carb originally was an automatic choke that had the spring. The vacuum line should be hooked up directly to a vacuum manifold that's screwed into the intake manifold. There will be one if you have automatic trans or power brakes.
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:51 PM
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Ok I'm starting to figure this out. What would be the steps to return to an automatic choke. Also is there anywhere to buy individual parts of the carb/choke. All I can find are full rebuild kits and I'm missing a screw and some sort of washer.
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:24 PM
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Take black cap, retainer, wire attached to it, screw your missing off a donor truck. The wire is conected to the alternator. It's on the stator terminal. Their may be aftermarket one's out their in Dormon's "help" line but Lord knows if it's open timing would be right.

 
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