Need help troubleshooting a P2196 code that is keeping me from having my 03 Sport Trac inspected. I was originally getting P0301-3 codes with a clinking in the front of engine as well as P0172/4. Took care of the misfires 0301/2/3 and clinking with a crank to jack chain tensioner that was toast. The P0172/4 codes were fixed with a new elbow that had collapsed a right under the throttle body at the intake manifold. Then as soon as that was done, I started getting a P0122 which I took care of with a new TPS. Now I'm getting a 2196 code!!!!! So I cleaned the MAF, replaced the plugs and wires, changed the oil and have a fuel filter I will be putting on in the morning as some have had luck. I'm at a complete loss. Every time I fix a code a new one pops up. PLEASE HELP!!!!

 

Welcome to the forum!

It's interesting that you had misfire codes for cylinders 1, 2, and 3 and now a code for a B1 O2 sensor that is stuck high. It seems to me like you might have an issue with the fuel injector wiring, or possibly you didn't actually get the source of the misfire codes fixed. What did you do to "fix" the misfires? If spark plugs, did the plugs you took out show any indications of poor burning, or were they maybe even a bit wet with fuel? Have you tried running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner or some other fuel system cleaner through the system for a hundred miles or so?

-Rod

 

Changed out all the plugs.... they all seemed to be of good... a little browninsh/orange but I paid special attention to the ones on bank 1 and found them to have gapped out to 1.8ish when 1.3-1.4 is the proper gaping. As for the misfires... the only thing I can think of was by replacing the timing tensioner on the chain from the Crank to the Jack, I may have taken a little slack out that was causing the 0301/2/3 codes. Decided I am going to try new intake gaskets.... I pulled the intake manifold thinking I needed to to get the timing cover off and re used the gaskets as they looked perfectly fine. As for the cleaner... I did do the Seafoam through the bake booster vacuum but I guess that bypasses the injectors so while I have the Intake off, I will be checking the injectors out. I'm at a loss.... saw somewhere a EGR could lead to this code after all... not sure if that is an option as well. My thinking is I would get an EGR code if that were the case.... ideas? And thanks for the reply. Posted on a couple of other sites, see almost a hundred views but ZERO feedback! :-/

 

While you have the intake off, you might consider swapping injectors between banks 1 and 2 to see if the code follows the injectors.

I don't think the EGR is the likely culprit as an EGR that's not functioning properly would likely cause stalling at idle or at least a rough idle. You don't mention that the engine is rough currently, only that you have the code.

-Rod

 

Great idea with the swapping of the injectors while the manifolds out... save me bringing the injectors somewhere to be tested or worse.... sending them out. Sorry I forgot to mention that... yes... it is stalling out and running rough. Must have mentioned that on one of the other sites and forgot to here as well. More so when going into gear or stopping at a light/stop sign. Just idling in park or neutral it seems fine. Drop it into gear and it drops down about 450/500 RPM and wants to stall.... sometimes does but coming up to a stop sign it dies almost every time. Its the old ride the gas and brake to keep from stalling.... not that I am driving it around... just down the block to see if another tweak (MAF cleaning or new PCV) has helped. Didn't try the fuel filter today.... tweaked my neck fierce trying to reach number 3 plug yesterday from the wheel well.... thanks FORD! Miss my old 68 stang where you could climb inside the compartment to work on it. Do they really need to save room by making #3s plug accessible by only an inch or two?

 

Just as a note, I have found that accessing #3 from underneath while the truck is on ramps is much easier...

Certainly sounds like the AIC is faulting, with the engine under load the ECM should command the AIC to open thus raising RPM.... of cource that does not rule out a sticky (partial open) EGR....... Philip

 

Maybe the problem is in the computer. I had similar idle/stalling problems and also chased suspected problems with all the sensors, controllers and wiring for about two years before swapping the computer for a rebuilt. I finally decided to replace the computer with a rebuilt instead of spending $600 to replace the injectors.

The rebuilt computer eliminated all my problems. A rebuilt computer from Auto Zone cost less than $200 with a $90 core charge. A lot less money than I had spent on parts chasing the problem and much less than new injectors.

 

In regards to aquanaut20 suggestion of an IAC, wouldn't an IAC issue have me throwing rich codes for both Banks 1 & 2 not just #1? I'll give it a try anyway of course. Figure I'll take it off... clean it up with some of the leftover MAF spray (awful big can they sell for cleaning your MAF) and then give this a try:


Key "ON", engine "OFF".
Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid disconnected.
Measure voltage between VPWR (red wire) circuit at the IAC solenoid vehicle harness connector and battery ground.
It should be 10.5v or higher.

The IAC gets power from the same circuit as the fuel injectors, EVR solenoid, and camshaft position sensor (if equipped). If you have power to those components, then the open circuit is between the splice for the injectors and the IAC. The power for the entire circuit comes through the ECM on pins 37 & 57.

Hoping it's not the PCM.... think I'll call that one last resort. Strange thing is in the Hayes it says "The PCM is located at the right end of the firewall. On 2002 through 2005 models, its in the passanger compartment with the connectors trotruding through the firewall" I'm a 2003 (falling within the 2002-2005 category but I see mine on the right firewall below the mastercylinder?

 

If all other sensors are working properly, the IAC would not set a rich code because it's doing the same thing as just opening the throttle butterfly a bit wider and letting more air through. With that in mind, a malfunctioning IAC would not cause a P2196 code either. So replacing the IAC may fix the idle issue, but will not fix the P2196. However, a fuel injector problem or vacuum issue (gaskets, PCV, EGR, other leak) could cause the idle issues AND the P2196 so I'd start there.

I very rarely hear of PCM issues with Fords so I agree that is probably last resort at this point.

-Rod

 

Update:
So I took off the intake manifold, pulled the fuel rack, cleaned the injectors swapping out the 3 on bank one with the 3 on bank two with new O-rings, put new intake manifold gaskets on and re-assembled... ran it for 10 mins and got the same P2196 (still bank 1 so it wasn't the injectors or the old intake manifold gaskets I had re-used.) At a loss again. One thing I did notice was more oil on the ring gasket for intake port #2 and actually a ring of oil left behind on the head. The others didn't show much oil except number 1 had a little left behind. I know the PCV line that comes all the way around the engine from the PCV valve enters the intake at about the same place.... is this a sign? I have pulled the PCV and given it a shake.... heard the ball clicking back and forth so I figure its OK. (I know.... @ about $10 I should have replaced the damn PCV!) Blown rings? Stuck PCV? At a loss big time... help guys! Haven't tried the fuel filter yet but that's because, like alot of the other ideas I have floated around.... my thinking is the code would not be specific to Bank 1 if it was a fuel filter thing.
****Side note.... I did have a collapsed PCV elbow at the Intake manifold that many have experienced but replaced that a week ago. That had led to my 0172/0174 codes that have cleared out as a result of the new elbow.

 

Ok... My plan of attack for tomorrow is to swap out the O2 sensors (bank 1 sensor 1 for bank 2 sensor 1) and see what that throws. If it throws the same P2196 I know its not the sensor. If it throws the rich bank 2 sensor 1 i'll know its the sensor. If not I'm going to throw a vacuum test on my EGR and meter test on my DPFE and check my EVR. Found a great link for that at:
EGR System O&T - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®
If all those fail I've been reading about a possible shot cat conv.... If not I found a good site on Molotov Cocktails!

 

I looked up your issue and your returning p2196 code and a handful of techs has reported the camshaft timing was off and it would set this code along with misfire codes on some as well. I personally have no experience with doing this with this engine. Just something for you to check, good luck.

 

I'm chewing over what JK080 has thrown into the ring and have a few questions.... I did replace the tensioner on the Crankshaft to Jackshaft chain as it had bitten the dust and was in 3 pieces and while I had the front covers off I replaced the tensioner on the Jackshaft to Camshaft chain on the front side (bank 2 if you prefer) could replacing those tensioners and not the one for back side timing (aka bank 1) bring this p2196 code? Would I get a rich code if it was a timing issue but zero timing codes? Was just in a good place to replace that tensioner on the backside when I was doing plug 3 but I'm between union assignments and living on the cheap. (NYC concrete construction workers are starving!)

 

***UPDATE***
Swapped out Sensor 1 Bank 1 with Sensor 1 Bank 2 and pulled the same code P2196 for Bank 1 Sensor 1. Also threw a Vac Tester on my EGR. Was able to bring the pump up to 6 h/g and it held. No hole in the diaphragm. Ran the second test on the EGR by starting the car and pumping my vac tester gauge and the idle became a little irregular meaning the "gate(?)" on the EGR was opening and bringing in the recycled exhaust.... running out of options. Looking for more suggestions! (goona try the other tests on EGR System O&T - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"® but I need someone here to start/trottle the engine while I watch the meter.
Side note, when I hook my ODB II up, I see my "Fuel Status" says "Closed Loop, using 1 O2 sensor" and under another part I get the following readings:
O2 1 X 1 = 0.9 V
O2 1 X 2 = 1.0 V
O2 2 X 1 = 0.1 V
I received the same reading before and after switching the #1 sensors from bank 1 and bank 2.
HELP!!!!!!

 

Can your scanner produce a graph of the O2, you should have one on either bank.

They should be actively switching, not biased....