When installed in a FE truck, the FE cars vertical oil filter adapter places the filter an inch or so above the engine crossmember. R&R'ing the filter will be a messy royal PITA

And...what happens when the left front motor mount (steel/rubber insulator) breaks apart (which is common)? The filter hits the crossmember, splits open. Not pleasant!

'Course 4WD's don't have an engine crossmember, but if y'all want more clearance w/a 4WD, there's a much easier solution to obtain it.

Install a Motorcraft FL-300 Oil Filter.

The only difference between the stock FL-1A oil filter and this puppy is the length. The FL-300 filter is a coupla inches shorter.

This filter was introduced in 1975, installed in 1975/78 Mustang II's with the 302.

You cannot use the FL-1A filter in these cars, because there isn't enough clearance between the oil filter adapter and the engine crossmember to install it.

 

Bill,

Thanks! That's the $2.78 solution I wanted to hear! I've gotten around to mocking up the new booster/master cyl. I got the whole pedal assembly from a '65 with a Fordomatic and I'm hoping all the holes line up, or are close. The clutch pedal has to go anyway, so I'll get to taking the old pedal bracket and assembly out today.

HK

 

Last Ford-O-Matic installed in these trucks was in 1961, F100 2WD with the 223 I-6 only.

All other 1961/64 F100/250's (2WD only) were available w/FX Cruise-O-Matic, once called the small Cruise-O.

1965/67 F100/350 352's and F350's with the 300 I-6 (all 2WD) were available w/MX Cruise-O-Matic, once called the big Cruise-O.

1965/67 F100/250's and F350's (all 2WD) w/the 240 I-6 were available with the C4 Cruise-O-Matic.

C5TZ-2455-C .. Brake Pedal = 1965/66 F100/250 2WD / 1966 F100 4WD = Has coil spring front suspension, uses the 2WD's cab (no cab step).

C5TZ-8101508-A .. Brake/Clutch Pedal Support = 1965/66 F100/250 2WD.

Ask Dave (garbz2) what will work, he's the swap specialist in this forum.

 

Bill,

Here's one for ya: I've got a Combination valve # D5TA 2B328-CTA 236 8.
I think it came off of a 79 F150 with disc/drum combo and should work okay for my application. Can you take a look at this number and confirm I've got the right one?

Thanks
HK

 

Bill and all,

I found that the FL-300 was just a tick too long for comfort. Any side to side engine movement would result in the filter contacting the frame, just like you said. It fits, but there is only 1/4" between it and the frame rail.
I did find that a Fram PF-16 or compatible is an inch shorter than the FL-300 and gives the clearance needed. I would really like to get a car adapter and run a bigger filter vertically, since I'll be running 30W Delo oil with ZDDP to protect the camshaft.

So here's where I'm at today:


Pedal position looks and feels good. That's a brake pedal off of the '65 i picked the booster and bracket from, and I've removed the clutch pedal. I tried using the '65 pedal bracketry in the 62 dash but it proved too much work. I'm going to rig a GM style brake light switch to run the brake lights, and get a lighter return spring in there.


Fan clearance is good! I'm taking the radiator to be checked and outlet moved to fit the FE inlet.


The combo valve fit nicely in the frame rails. I ran the fuel line over the middle of the combo valve so I can still get to the brake line nuts if needed.


Sorry, terrible pic. I fastened the fuel line using adel clamps on the lower frame bolt that holds the combo valve.


This is how I ran the brake line. I had EXACTLY enough to plumb the front circuits, rear circuit and have a 12" piece left over to bench bleed the master from a 25" coil. I do not have a double flare tool, so it's single only. I'll keep an eye on it. Adel clamps hold the line to the frame.


There's enough clearance to get the valve cover off. A little fine bending is in order, this stuff is easy to work with.


Now for the fun stuff - driveshaft shortening. This was the yoke that was on the C6 as I got it. The T98 I took out had a bolt on flange, but I read somewhere that the T98 and C6 have different splines on the output shaft. Well, I gave it a whack and that's not the case, at least not this T98. It fit perfectly!



I'm taking the driveshaft to be shortened and rebalanced this weekend. I'm so glad I don't have to go looking for a matching yoke!

Thanks to all you guys with the color scheme suggestions. Right now I'm just going to leave it patina until it's been mobile for a while.
Can't wait to get this 390 fired up!

HK

 

I would also mount the engine crossmember to the underside of the rail with a spacer block to gain additional valve cover clearance. use a angle finder on the carbureator mounting area and use a 3 degree back setting.

Also make sure the axle and mount are not on the same center line as it will hit.

You can use a car type vertical or a remote set for the filter. I would not recommend using a short on a FE.

Garbz

 

I'm unsure what you mean by the first statement...
Yep, I'm a little concerned about the shorty filter in a 6 quart system too.

 

By mounting the crossmember to the under side of the top rail it will lower the engine a bit to help with he valve cover removal. Set the angle by adjusting the trans mount.

Garbz

 

Got it working on my own.

 

HK i'm doing this same type of conversion on a 1964 f100 i'm also using a bb fe 360 and the same motor mount conversion. the only difference is i'm using a NP435 trans i got with the motor. The motor and trans came out of a 68 F250. Your did a great job documenting this conversion. i would like to know if you ran into any more problems finishing this motor swap?

 

Make sure it is an automotive blend paint. Paint for models lacks UV protection. You can guess how I found out.

Haze gray and underway! ;-)

 

HK has not logged on in a year and a half.


Last Activity: 09-01-2013 08:02 PM


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Thanks. I read a lot of posts and sometimes I miss the dates. Tri-focals add to the difficulty level of checking said dates. That, or I'm practicing for my "senior moments". ;-)

 

Thanks i'm new to this.