O'rielly has then rangeing from $11.99-$23.99. At least that is the price for this area lol. I like them and have good experiences (unless it is the manager of my local store).

 

It cost me less than $20 w/tax at O'Reilley's today. Did not fix my problem but it was easy to do.

 

Thanks guys I think Ill give it a try and hope it works

 

Master Pro Ignition 2IS80 - Ignition Switch | O'Reilly Auto Parts Is this the item i should get? its listed as the ignition switch but Its not what i had im mind

 

Yes that is the ignition switch. Try to set the new switch as close as possible to the postion the old sitch was on the column. They are adjustable due to differences in the although slight in the rod lengths.

 

thanks ill see if this works

 

I replaced that ignition switch but am still having issues. First issue: the starter is staying engaged after the engine gets running. I have to turn the key back to disengage it. Could this be fixed with sliding the switch on the slotted switch mounts? Im guessing I just have to play with it until its right. Second problem: After about 20 min of driving it randomly shut off on me again. I was coasting down hill, no brakes or throttle. Was coasting in drive for couple hundred feet than it died. Im hoping once the switch is postioned properly this problem will go away, but is there anything else that could be causing it? Thanks guys

 

On the starter sticking part. Does the key come back on it's own when you let off? If not then the rod or tumbler is sticking. As for still dieing randomly it sounds like there is an interuption of power to the ip shut off valve. Personally I would run a wire direct to the shut off valve and then start it. Drive it around and see if it still dies. You would need to disconnect the factory wire first. Make sure it is out of the way and taped off so as no to short on anything. You will also have to manually unhook the wire that you run to shut the truck down. If it runs fine this way then you would have a short or break in the factory wire somewhere. I personally had mine wired this way thru a toggle switch before I finally tracked down the old coil wire from the gasser loom to power a relay for the ip.

 

I do have to manually turn the key back from the starter position. I have always done so even before the dying problem. I will try lubing the tumblers and cleaning the rod.
Which wire is the fuel shut off wire? There are 2 on the ip- one in a more vertical position other more flat. Which one would it be? Correct me if Im wrong but the wire needs to be connected to 12v in order to run the engine and just disconnected to kill the engine.

 

Yes it needs 12v. It is the wire on top on the passenger side of the ip https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ghlight=wiring. This thread shows the location of the wires.

 

Maybe a heat soaked IP cutting off??? Maybe

 

I am having problems with my ignition switch as well. It started out with losing the key-back accessory position, then having to hold against the spring tension to engage the glow plugs and recently, the truck shuts off when going over a bump or shifting into reverse too abruptly. It will also shut off the engine if I let the ignition cylinder go and spring back.

I tested my theory by letting the truck idle and then smacking the steering column. Sure enough, the truck shut right down. I think there is either a loose or frayed wire or more than likely a bad ignition switch.

Is there any adjustment for ignition rod travel that needs to be made when installing the new switch?

 

The rod itself is a fixed length. The ignition switch is mounted on two slotted holes with two screws. Be sure to make where the old switch is and put the new one as close to the old position as possible. I messed up that step and now im left trying to find the proper position. If you havnt taken it apart yet, all you have to do is remove the bezel around the bottom of the collum and the support bracket. This should give you ample space to remove the switch. When replacing the switch make sure the rod doesnt fall ou tof its hole in the switch

 

By support bracket, do you mean the column support bracket? So, essentially, I would be dropping the steering wheel and column down towards the driver's seat? If so, yeah, there would be ample room for this repair.

Bought a new switch last night. Now I just need some dry daylight to pull everything apart.

 

Yes the column support bracket, the aluminum one. Remove that and let the column hang by itself.