<center>Intake Manifold Removal and Replacement</center>

For several days before you actually start the removal, soak the distributor opening in the manifold with a rust buster (PB Blaster is recommended). [Also soak the top bolts for the exhaust manifolds if you're removing the heads.]
First crank the engine around to where the timing mark is at Top Dead Center and the distributor rotor is pointing at the number one plug wire on the cap.
Note where the vacuum advance is pointing and where the number one wire is sitting. (Often the factory position for these are not what you have.)
When you remove the distributor the rotor will turn as the gear is at an angle. Note the amount it turns as it will need to be offset this much during assembly.
Now disconnect the battery.
Drain the coolant and be sure it is below the deck by removing the small screw in plugs at the bottom edge of the cooling jacket. If they are stuck - as they often are - then knock out a freeze plug. If there is coolant in the block it will run into the cylinder and down into the rings. While not a disaster, it just is another mess to screw with and I like to see the cylinder walls as they were when the engine was running, and not after I've cleaned up the coolant and wiped out any signs of problems.
Drain the radiator, remove the valve covers, carburetor, thermostat housing, distributor, rock arm assemblies and push rods (and keep track of which side that stuff came off and which push rod belongs to what valve), wiring that runs across the intake manifold.
Remove the temperature sending unit, and any heater hose connections, etc., that you want to install on another manifold (they're a lot easier to remove while the manifold is still bolted down).
Finally the intake manifold itself can come off. To loosen it use a pry bar or large screw driver at the center and lift each side loose. If you have a cast iron manifold remember that that sucker is heavy around 80 pounds so plan to struggle. I place a folded old blanket on top of the fender so I can set it down without denting the fender. If I'm lifting it out by myself, I actually stand inside the engine compartment.
You've got to clean the head gasket surfaces, block ends, valve cover gasket surface, and thermostat housing gasket surface.
Make sure the gasket fits OK at the bottom of the ports on the manifold and heads. This step should not to be skipped as some manifold-head combinations require a special gasket.
Dry, test installation is next to let you check for manifold alignment if your using a different manifold or if the old one had sealing problems. Make sure the manifold port faces line up parallel to the heads. Use the distributor to align the manifold front to rear especially if is a replacement manifold.
Re-assembly is next. Use carburetor/throttle body cleaner to get the gasket mating surfaces, especially the block end surfaces and the undersides of the end of the manifold, free of any oil so the gasket sealer will seal better. I use either VersaChem 99 or Permatex Ultra Blue 77 and build up a bead half again as thick as the dry fitting showed me that I need. I let it dry several minutes before putting the manifold on.
After the intake manifold is in place, install the distributor before the manifold bolts as the distributor determines the front to rear alignment for the intake manifold.
Most everything else is straight forward, just get things back where they came from.

FE's That Bend Push-rods, A Dirty little Secret


<center>By William Ballinger</center> I have heard it said many times that one of the Ford FE's main weaknesses is a propensity for tossing, bending or breaking valve-train push rods. The non-adjustable rocker-shaft assemblies would appear to be the primary culprit. It has also been pointed out that the barrel length of the lifter is longer than it needs to be. While both are true to a point, the factory had procedures to keep these differences from other designs from causing reliability problems.
Involved are specific procedures to unload and pre-load the valve-train, check the actual lifter pre-load specific to it's valve location, and adjust any deficiencies by the use of longer push rods in the specific valve locations that have slack. Of course it's more work than simply turning down a nut, but it's a strong, durable design as long as it is kept within it's design limits, and put together properly. Properly done it can withstand 6000 rpm forays as well or better than any bread and butter factory design. The 428 CJ Mustangs that still run well in Stock-Class drag racing use this design, 'nuff said!
When disassembling an FE valve-train it is important to keep in mind that this adjustment procedure may have been performed in the past. This will cause you to encounter longer push rods at some valve positions. It is important to keep the push rods in order, specific to their positions, until you can determine if they are all the same lengths and in good condition.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the engine due to it's age will likely have been apart before. Many times the proper unload/pre-load procedures have not been followed, and any corrections to lifter pre-load made prior may have been lost due to mixing up the push rods. Check the rocker-shafts for straightness, as a previous assembler may have bent them.
Blueprinting your valve-train this way lets you know what you really have, and whether it's worthy of hard running or not. If you don't do it you will have a pretty good chance of breaking something. Why give more fodder to the Brand X boys? Even if you don't run your engine hard, isn't it nice to know that you can?
It would be a good idea to unload and pre-load your valve-train before checking the valve clearance to eliminate improper pre-load as a factor.


<center> Rocker Shaft Unload and Pre-load.

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</center> It is very important that the rocker-shaft be properly unloaded and reloaded to insure proper lifter pre-load and prevent damage to valve-train components. Bring up number one cylinder on the compression stroke to TDC (top dead center), and turn the engine another forty-five degrees beyond to the "XX" mark as shown on the damper. Loosen the passenger side bank rocker-shaft bolts from rear to front two turns at a time until loose. On the drivers side loosen the bolts from front to rear two turns at a time. In my opinion, a couple of 1/2 turn passes in sequence after breaking torque would make the operation a little less traumatic to the components, but it isn't absolutely necessary.
To reload the rocker-shaft, and in the process pre-load the lifters, bring the damper back to number one cylinder TDC, and reverse the procedure specific to each bank. Turn the rocker-shaft support bolts down two turns at time until you reach the specified torque value. As when unloading the shaft, when you get close to full torque, 1/2 turn passes in sequence until full torque is reached would be recommended but not absolutely necessary. Refer to your shop manual for all engine torque specifications, and diagrams if you are unsure of any of these procedures.

<center> Valve Clearance Testing and Adjustment

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To check the valve clearance, run the engine to operating temperature, shut off, and bring the crank to number one cylinder TDC compression. Check cylinder 1,3,7,8 intakes and 1,4,5,8 exhausts by pressing down the rocker arm until the lifter bleeds completely down. Clearance between the rocker tip and valve should be between .100 to .200 for all FE's but the '65 to '67 352. The 352 specification is .050 to .150. If there is more slack than is recommended, then a longer push rod is necessary to bring it into specification.
Make sure that the lifter is capable of holding good pressure, and if you are turning the engine hard enough to cause high-rpm pump-up that you're using anti-pump-up lifters. If a certain lifter collapses a lot easier when you compress it, then it will need to be replaced. If you have to replace one, use an engine hoist to handle that lovely triple-A hernia inducing intake manifold. It's about 80 lbs. without the carburetor. I intend to write an article soon on the installation of an FE intake manifold, so keep in touch.
To check the remaining valves, turn the engine 360 degrees (one full revolution) and bring up number six to TDC and check cylinder 2,4,5,6 intakes and 2,3,6,7 exhausts in the same way and to the same specifications.
Love them or cuss them, the FE has been in the exclusive company of the best engines of all time. They still command a very loyal following in the enthusiast sector of automotive and truck interest. Their versatility of application is unmatched by any other design in the history of the automobile. From a NASCAR Torino, to AL's ROOFING's F-600, to Aunt Hildegard's four- door Fairlane. The FE has "been there and done that." Many design cues we see in Ford's latest offering, the Modular, hails back to the FE. From a time when "IRON MEN DON'T WEAR BOW-TIES."