I recently did springs on my truck and didnt replace the stock trac bar or anything else up front. It was a chore to line up the front axle with the new springs but having read that others do this with the stock bar, I got it in and its been driving fine. I Drove it to work today and started to hear some creaking up front. I noticed after a closer inspection when I got home that both my front leaf springs at the front of the truck are pulled towards the drivers side and are up against the pocket. (left phone at work, sorry no pics) The drivers side spring bushing isnt centered in the spring anymore due to this tension. I attribute this to not using a longer trac bar as that's the direction it is pulled under tension from the taller X code springs. Now should I get a drop bracket and use a stock bar? or just get an adjustable bar? I am hoping that these springs will work themselves back towards the center of the pocket and that I havent ruined the bushings or something. Thanks!

 

I put a Zone Off Road adj. track bar on mine when I did my front springs. I did Pro Comp springs which lifted my truck exactly 5 inches over what it was. The track bar was about an eighth inch too long when I set it back down on it's wheels. Not much.... just enough to keep from getting the track bar bolt in (with the bar shortened all the way). I had to have my wife work the wheel while I got the bolt into place. I would say that five inches is the minimum lift needed to run the Zone as it comes in the box. That being said, if you had a nut to fit the threads you could easily grind some off each end of the bar to shorten it, then thread the nut off the bar to straighten the threads out some (or better yet, have a machine shop shorten it. I don't think you'd need to shorten it much.... maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch?

 

P.S. I think the Zone was about $120 shipped to my door through Amazon.

 

Thanks for the info! I have the zone in my wishlist and have read about possibly having to shorten it. I have also considered adding length to my factory bar. The bushings are not bad and I could cut it, plug it, weld it and then even sleeve over it if needed. Question then is how much to lengthen it....

 

If I had a lathe, and well....... had any idea how to use it, I'd make a stocker adjustable. I assume that is really what Zone is doing. Cut, thread, and add the threaded collar. But since I don't have a lathe.... how can you beat the Zone for that price. On the plus side, the threaded ends are tapered a bit right at the end, which would certainly make it easier to grind down the ends a bit (not a lot to grind). I thought hard about shortening mine slightly, but it didn't take much to get the bolt in. Everyone's skill set is different, but I think anyone that is handy could shorten the Zone a little themselves. I recall reading one of the reviews on Amazon and the guy said he did just that.

 

I went with an adjustable trac bar up front with my X codes. It was $250 and I'm pretty sure it is made by Icon. I purchase it from Cary @ CT Performance.

 

my 4" BDS lift came with a drop bracket. Uses the stock track bar. Seems to work fine for my application.

 

The rule you want to follow for the trackbar is keeping it as parallel as possible to the drag link. This severely reduces, if not eliminates entirely, bump steer.

Personally I have an ICON chromoly adjustable trackbar on about 4" of lift, with no real issues. I have a smidgen of bumpsteer, but it's no more than a twitch and only at freeway speeds. Part of that is also due to the solid axle and off camber or one-side bumps.

 

Thanks for the info. So far it drives great with the stock one, just in looking for my newly developed creaking I can clearly see the springs pulled to the drivers side in the pocket. I may need to buy tools to get these bolts out. They are quite massive.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if your rig doesn't track completely straight front to rear. The alignment may be in spec, but the trackbar keeps it centered under the vehicle. Leaf springs help more than coils, but you're probably still a bit off-centered. I imagine it would contribute a bit to a premature wear on the springs as well with them bound at an angle they aren't meant to function in 100% of the time.