Setup –

Truck - 2008 F250 6.4 Job 1 OEM Brake Controller – Completely Stock
Trailer – 16ft low-boy type, dual axle, electric brakes

I do not have much experience with electric brakes, only surge brakes. Here is my question. How much resistance / braking power should electric brakes produce? In testing or setting gain, I’m only able to get the trailer to hold my truck from rolling at idle. This is at full gain or using the manual brake apply. Reading the manual I figured at some point I should be able to get the trailer brakes to “lock-up” and then adjust down as appropriate depending on weight towed. Any feedback on this is appreciated.

 

I typically like the trailer brakes to "lead" the truck slightly, so that when I touch the brake lightly the trailer tugs at the truck a little and then as I apply more brake the trailer and truck are in decent sync.

If the trailer brakes aren't locking with full power applied at a moderate pace <5mph they probably need adjustment, or if the trailer is new the shoes may just need a bit of wear so they "seat" and grab properly.

 

Properly set, the trailer brakes should take the full load of the trailer during decel. In other words, normal stopping should feel relatively similar at the pedal with and without the trailer. The trailer should not feel like it is pushing you.

An emply 16 ft car hauler will not need much brake force to carry its own load. I set my gain and power to its lowest setting when I am pulliing my 16 ft car hauler empty. Your settings will obviously increase with weight.

 

Something is wrong, if I am following your post. With the built-in trailer brake controller working it manually you will see a full 12 amps to the seven pin, when the output is dialed up. I actually ran the amp output correlated with the settings and using the manual control as a way to see if the controller connections were good. The results are posted in the notes in the Trailer and Towing forum. I would suggest checking your connections, particularly the ground at your seven pin. A poor or corroded connection will reduce amperage to the brakes dramatically. Your trailer brakes are capable of stopping way more than just your truck at idle.

My thoughts,

Steve

 

Properly set, your trailer would eventually be able to stop your entire rig using just the manual brake. When I first hook up my trailer, I use the manual brake a couple of times at low speed just to make sure it's all ready to go (I'll feel the trailer tug at me). The Ford intergrated control is pretty good at letting you know if things aren't connected, but it can't tell you for your trailer brakes work or not. (I'm only pointing this out becuase you said you're new to the electric brake system)

From what you describe, I would do a visusal inspection of your trailer brakes. Could be worn down and need replacing or just not properly adjusted. Also, with using the low-boy, you should have different settings for both loaded and unloaded. Otherwise, you'll lock up the brakes when your unloaded or not utilize the trailer brakes enough when loaded. P.S. I'm assuming your already getting full amps as discribed by RV_Tech. If you haven't verified that yet, it's easier to do than checking the brakes, but you should periodically check your trailer brakes anyway. Good Luck.

 

One of the simplest ways to test trailer brakes by themselves is too unhook the seven pin from your truck, but leave the trailer hooked. Then pull your break-away pin, which should lock the brakes up tight. If you can't move the trailer, the brakes are working. If not look further. Of course, that does not take the place of routine maintenace or inspection. Do not leave the pin out for a prolonged period or the wires to the break-away switch will often melt.

Steve

 

A solution to my electric brake problems -

I have resolution to my original electronic brake problem. Steps I took to resolve -
1. Checked power to trailer brakes - OK
2. Listened for the "magnets" to engage in the trailer brakes - Sounded OK
3. Adjusted drum brakes as typically recommended

So far none of the above solved the problem

4. Had my Ford diesel service tech check the 7 pin connection and brake controller with the Ford specific tester - OK
5. After all that I went back to the maker of the trailer and they did some troubleshooting.

Turns out to be something in their brakes. It was easier for them to put a whole new axle system on and once that was done - all was well. The brakes work just like they should and the force is easily adjusted in the cab with the gain control.

Thanks to everyone for your feedback

 

I'm glad you ran this to ground, but Jeesh! Repacing the whole axle to fix a brake problem? That's like replacing your engine because the fan belt was worn out.