I have a gap in my column between the collar and the turn signal can housing, what am I missing? Trying to get it together.

 

There is a slight gap between the 2 parts. There are 2 nuts, one on top and one on the bottom of the turn signal switch. Loosen those up but do not let the nut come off the bolt because its a B***H to get back into the slots!!! Push down on the collar to make sure its "seated" properly on the column and when it all the way down as far as you can get it, push down on the signal can. It should go together pretty close. Hold it there then tighten it down using the 2 bolts you loosened at the begining. Is your truck an automatic??? You may have to somehow manuever the gear shifter forward (towards you) somehow while holding down the signal canister and tighten it up all at the same time. On an automatic sometimes the gear pin inside the collar where the shifter hits the pin will actually hold the signal can back and will not let it seat properly......i know, its tricky.....its all trial and error as I had a time putting mine back together too. I hope this made sense, its hard to explain and even harder to pull off. Good luck!

 

What do your cab mounts look like? If the cab mounts are shot or well on their way the cab will drop creating a gap where you speak of. It causes other issues far more important than cosmetic but let's first determine the cab mounts are good.

 

my cab mounts are shot. in fact i dont have any besides the replacements in the bed of the truck. no floor pans either but im still driving it. lol

 

Be careful. You could end up with the cab falling off the frame while driving. There are only 4 bolts that hold the cab to the frame. You do have a few connecting to the front clip but if that cab decided to go the front clip mountings won't stop it. I can't say much. When I was young we would put 2x4's between the cab and frame to hold it up so we could drive it.

 

lol i dont drive it far. just from one yard to another lol. the storage port is in our neighbors back yard. lol

 

Thanks, i'll give it a try tonight.

 

Also, I have a 88 302ci in this truck with an old cruisematic tranny, having trouble finding the fluid amount with a empty converter. any ideas?

 

Try filling it in reverse or at least letting it run in reverse for a few when it shows full in park. You could have filled the converter prior to install. I know, hind sight if 20/20.

 

Thanks, do you know if the tranny cooling line are 5/16?

 

They are usually 5/16" sometimes 3/8". You can make them whatever size you want. I would probably make them 3/8" and if need be step them down at the trans and radiator. It would give you a slightly more capacity. Not much but you gain ground in small ways.

 

Thanks, i have alot of new 5/16" brake line,i'll try it

 

my heater cables seem to be binding on my 68-F100, i put all new cables and clips on. What is the proper adjustment for this? they work in the right order, but super stiff to move.

 

Did the heater controls work smoothly and easily without the cables attached? If so them check to verify the other end of the cable connection operates without binding when the cable is disconnected. Heater control valves are good for corrosion and freezing up. They are inexpensive. If all checks ok then it is either in your routing of the cables putting them in a bind or clamped down too tight pinching the outer housing around the center.

 

yes it works pretty smooth when its not hooked up, so ill check the other stuff. where can i find a picture of the routing of the cables?