1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Mustang II front end swap ?'s

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  #16  
Old 10-02-2011, 03:44 PM
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Be prepared to run 17" wheels or larger. The CV brakes are too big for any smaller of a wheel. Other than that, i'm impressed at thos the CV suspension goes together.

To add to using a stock MII suspension, there is nothing wrong with it as long as you upgrade the control arms. (or at least box in the factory units) The x-member and the rest of it is plenty beefy enough. However, the track width, at 55", is too narrow for any of these trucks. You'll have to widen the crossmember to properly fit the frame and correct the track width of the pickup. then use tie rod extensions, or install longer inner tie-rods, or use i believe it was a T-Bird rack and pinion unit.

I've got a stock MII x-member installed into my '47 coupe that actually looks really nice! Obviously one must spend a bit of time on it to clean up the factory look, but it does realy look nice. If i get a chance to clear all the crap off of it, I'll post some pics of it.
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 03:56 PM
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Fast58,

I am doing the same swap in a 1958. If you do a google search for 1960 crown vic ifs swaps you will find a few build threads. One of the links I found was to this site for a guy that dropped a crown vic ifs and 4.6 mod motor in his truck. His user name is Romak. The crown vic is a little wide for the 56-60 trucks and requires the use of high offset front wheel drive or Mustang style wheels. If you can live with that the CV IFS swap seems to be the best thing going. The biggest issue that Romak mention in one of his postswas that the 57-60 frames are not as flat as the 65 and up frames where the crown vic cross member mounts, so he had to make a few cuts weld in some new flat steel stock to create a mounting area. Other that that is seemed to be the same process as the other builds posted here. Good luck with the truck!
 
  #18  
Old 10-02-2011, 04:26 PM
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Aside from the issues with the CV mentioned above, I see no reason why not to do it. It may be more costly, if you cannot find a cheap unit. I'd imagine that there will also some fabrication required to mount your V-8, but probably no more than any other custom installed IFS. The biggest reason I like the aftermarket IFS kits, is they're cost effective, have many options, are very simple to install, and are plenty strong enough, even for big block V-8 engines. They are usually simpler than grafting in any other type of suspension, other than stock, and are usually shipped with easy to follow instructions. Personally, I've installed several of the MII kits from JW Rod Garage. They are straight forward. I've put one in a 37 Chrysler Royale, a '56 Chevy pick-up, my '63 Falcon Sedan, and have helped install a few others. The alignment shops like them because of how simple they are adjusted, and how much room there is to adjust them. And Dano, I look forward to seeing your MII install, as I am always open to a very clean job done to something like that. I've never been impressed with one I've seen, but am always open to more examples.
 
  #19  
Old 10-02-2011, 06:19 PM
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I would have to agree with wmjoe1953, you can't beat the aftermarket support the Mustang II has. If you plan on airbags or drop spindles in the future, it's Mustang II all the way.
 
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:19 AM
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In an earlier post I said he was putting the '06 CV front end under his '65 F-100. It is actually a '67 if that interests anyone. Also, I read on another classic truck forum that the track width on the 03-'07 CV's is 64" which is what I measured my truck to be earlier today. I just wonder what the bad side is cause it almost sounds too good to be true. A 1958 truck riding and driving like a Crown Victoria just a few bolts and accurate measurements away. It has my interest. I can go to the local pick 'n pull and get a CV front end for under $300. According to some posts it's a one day job to get the CV front end under the truck and bolted up. Again sounds too good to be true. What do ya'll think?
 
  #21  
Old 10-03-2011, 08:29 AM
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I've not done one, and have't seen enough info one it to pass any judgement on the idea. If there is enough information for you to accurately follow along, then I'd say do it. Find out how your current engine will go into it, and check into any other potential issues.
 
  #22  
Old 10-03-2011, 10:20 AM
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If your going to convert to a IFS You also need to remember (know it's obvious to those of use that have followed IFS or IRS post), but I must say "don't forget to box your frame, cab forward..." It's a little more than just bolting on.
 
  #23  
Old 10-03-2011, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Moe Craig
If your going to convert to a IFS You also need to remember (know it's obvious to those of use that have followed IFS or IRS post), but I must say "don't forget to box your frame, cab forward..." It's a little more than just bolting on.
That's another thing. I've been reading a lot of threads related to this and they all say to box the frame. What is the best method of cutting the metal to fit the frame for those of us who do not have a plasma cutter?
 
  #24  
Old 10-03-2011, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by fast58
That's another thing. I've been reading a lot of threads related to this and they all say to box the frame. What is the best method of cutting the metal to fit the frame for those of us who do not have a plasma cutter?
There are companies that have pre-cut boxing plates... If I have a chance I will look and see if I can find one of the companies I've seen that make them... Unless someone else has one before I can look...
 
  #25  
Old 10-03-2011, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by fast58
That's another thing. I've been reading a lot of threads related to this and they all say to box the frame. What is the best method of cutting the metal to fit the frame for those of us who do not have a plasma cutter?
a cutoff wheel in a 4.5 in grinder will work.. how I did all mine before plasma cutter... you are going to weld and grind the edges, so perfection is not required.

cut them the same size as the inside of the chassis U. then weld a few small tabs, edge flush with the rail edge to the inside of the chassis U.. then u can clamp the plates in the right position.. edge corner to edge corner. (and weld fill the corner)

Sam
 
  #26  
Old 10-03-2011, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sdetweil
a cutoff wheel in a 4.5 in grinder will work.. how I did all mine before plasma cutter... you are going to weld and grind the edges, so perfection is not required.

cut them the same size as the inside of the chassis U. then weld a few small tabs, edge flush with the rail edge to the inside of the chassis U.. then u can clamp the plates in the right position.. edge corner to edge corner. (and weld fill the corner)

Sam
That's a great tip on the small tabs... I will have to remember this...
 
  #27  
Old 10-03-2011, 04:17 PM
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Sounds like this swap is well within the realm of my skill level. The more I read up on this swap the more I realize it is the simplest swap I've seen so far. In essence jerk out everything that has to do with the original front suspension after you make a few hub center line reference marks, roll the new suspension under, measure the crap out of front/back and side to side placement, drill some holes, bolt it in and box the frame, and tie up the loose ends such as steering column adaptation, and power brakes conversion. I know nothing is EVER as easy as it sounds. Trust me, everything I've done to this truck hasn't went as easily as intended, but from what I can tell, this Crown Victoria suspension swap is straight-forward and user friendly. PLUS I will get power brakes out of the ordeal along with power steering and the ride/drive/stopping quality of a '03-'07 Crown Victoria. All for around $300. I am trying, but I can't find the downside to this swap. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
  #28  
Old 10-03-2011, 05:17 PM
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Hey Fast,
Hmmmm.... I'm not going to argue against upgrading the front suspension as we certainly did it & we like the results but... It's definitely not a one day job or a weekend job - that's the biggest downside - it's major surgery & your truck will be down for a while. You have to pull the engine & all the front sheet metal to make it easier to get to everything. Then you have all the follow on stuff if it's like mine - might as well re-wire it while it's all torn apart, upgrade the steering while it's all apart, install a 2 stage master cylinder to accomodate the front disc brakes, etc.

Replacing the rear suspension is a weekend job - pretty straight forward. You would think the front would be about the same but it's not - it's a major deal that will take a month or two at a minimum to finish.

Ben in Austin
 
  #29  
Old 10-03-2011, 06:21 PM
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I've just spent the past hour and a half reading an old thread from carcraft22 about this same swap. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...o-67-f100.html I am now convinced that the easiest and most economical approach to changing the front end is to use the Crown Vic. I know there will be down time but it's worth it to me for what I'll get in return. A cheap Mustang II front end aftermarket will run $1500 with 10 or 11 inch single piston disc brakes. With a Crown Vic IFS you START with 12 inch dual piston disc brakes, rack and pinion power steering, power brakes, and the ride quality of a Crown Vic.... for LESS THAN $200 at my local pick-n-pull. To me this a no brainer. I have been excited about this since yesterday when I stumbled across it. I WILL be making a trip to the junkyard Saturday to look for and possibly acquire an '03-'07 CV Police Interceptor or just a regular CV. Either way I will be getting outstanding drive and stopping ability along with a 5-6" drop, which won't look bad I might add. I've made up my mind. I will be doing the Crown Victoria swap as long as nothing major happens between now and then. Once I begin the swap I will take tons of pics and make plenty of posts. Thank you everybody for all the great ideas and information.
 
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