Ok I normally am on the idi side of the site but wont a obs powerstroke and think i have found one. Here is a link to the truck on craigslist 97 Ford. As it says it runs rough when the ce light comes on but not when its off i want to get ome help on what this may be before i call about it. I know a fair amount about the 7.3 powerstroke the cps,hpop,under valve cover harness,ebpv the generals. Im thinking he tried to read it with a autozone scanner and it didint get all the codes so what do you guys think it may be thanks.

 

Its going to be hard to say with out the code

 

6K is tough w/o knowing what is actually wrong with it. Can you get the VIN?

 

I may just go drive it and check it out and if he will take 5 for it take the risk then. If everything else is sound motor and truck wise. I will call tonight and set up a test drive this weekend and post up what i find and if i got it. If i think i may get it i will take down the vin i want to go drive it and see if i cant find little things to eat away till its at 5,000. I know the ttb axle will need new bushings a good chance and probably has a boost leak stuff like that will be my attack point to get him down on it.

 

Buying Used Power Stroke Diesels
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel

Turbo:

You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:

Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:

If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:

4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:

Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:

The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:

Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:

Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:

The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:

You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:

If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

 

Thanks...I may have understated exactly how much i knew on the powerstroke motor i just didint know what may be wrong with this one but i know most things on them just not much on trouble shooting electronics on one haha I know to check the compressor wheel for shaft play and the injector seals and the glow plugs i got acsess to AE if i get it ill hook up AE i know to check for excessive amounts of blowby and the sca is nothing new i gota do that to my idi diesel to test strip every 2500 miles watch it like a hawk ill check all the common leak prone places on it for oil valve cover gaskets valley ect. as far as gear ratio i prefer a 3.55 for the mpg and top end,i will be sure to check the rear 10.25 sterling for leaky seals as my idi had tht happen easy fix but more cash off so i will see. If i do buy it im not even puting insurance on it until my mod list is done which will all be within 3 months if the rough running isnt major i got the cash from working. fix the rough running trouble,full mbrp exaust with 3in downpipe,autometer a pillar gauges,new head gasket,head studs,comp 910 valvesprings,bdp dominator 66 turbo,6637 filter with petes cover,casserly stage 2 injectors,superduty 7.3 spyder and a 6.0 intercooler,bellowed up pipes,modded idm,dp tuner f6 with custom tunes from jody,south bend FDD32505 clutch,dana 60 swap already got the axle planed for doing it to my idi,traction bars.... I want 440-495hp with a sleeper truck and think that will get me good and close first i gotta see if i even think its worth the cash thnks and ill let you guys know soon

 

You forgot HPOP

 

Yes and loose the d66 and get a t4 mount and an s366. Your gonna spend more on the bellowed up pipes and d66 then you could spend on a much stouter turbo and have more options. Add an hpop and you should have a very stout truck. Also for the money id look at hybrids. Almost the same price and less oil hungry vs a 160/100

 

If you get the VIN and run it through here:Comprehensive Chevrolet, Saturn, GMC, Hummer, Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Geo, Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Chrysler, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda Truck, Mercedes VIN Decoder
It should tell you in you have a "Cali" model. If you do, you can scan for codes with a normal OBDII scanner. If it has a CEL it has a code(s)