Having a lot of issues with '01 7.3, truck began losing oil on the ground via the top of the block here a couple weeks ago. Truck cranks 8-10 times before start, then runs terribly rough at idle and worse under throttle and rolls black smoke anytime you're in the skinny pedal, UNTIL engine reaches op. temp and it smooths right out. IF I plug the truck in, (75 degrees here) it will crank the 8 times or so, fire and idle and run smooth. ??? Replaced o-rings with Guzzle's kit last week, still the oil in the valley and dropping to the ground so i assume the hard start and rough running is HPOP drain-down. Don't ask me why plugging it in solves this. Was getting ready to trade for an '06 350 I found, then this. Want to get it solved instead of making it someone else's problem. 176,000 on the truck. Question is, new o-rings on the HPOP lines, new Guzzle o-rings and sleeves on the fuel bowl. Do I need to re-do any of this or just remove the bowl and swap pumps, and put the bowl back? TIA for your advice. By the way, how bad (timeframe) is this swap? I have the HPOP quick disconnect tool and a torque wrench at the ready.

 

Mueckster and I just did this on Tuesday of this past week. Of course, Mueckster has every tool you could imagine, and a lifetime of mechanic's experience including doing the HPOP on these trucks several times. It took us about 4 hours, but we also did a Riff Raff Regulated Return (probably added 30 mins to the job). I was amazed at the simplicity of actually doing all of this...but it is very time consuming. Of course, there's always the "gotchas" that eat up time, like a stubborn bolt or whatever.

I would suggest that you have the fuel lines' o-rings replaced any time you disconnect it from the fuel bowl. No telling what type of scoring or pinching may have occurred from the sleeve threads on the o-rings, so much safer to simply replace. Shouldn't cost more than $10 for rings. As for the HPOP lines o-rings, we didn't replace them, and we did use the HPOP line tool which made it simple.

Don't forget a new HPOP gasket when installing the new pump. I think they're $15.

 

I don't suppose you could give me a list of tools since you just did the job could you? Would make it a lot quicker since I spend more time climbing down from the truck to get x socket or whatnot. Even if you just remember something off the top of your head that you know I will need, that will help greatly. Got the gasket coming too. That ultimately could be my only issue, but no more expense than it is, and with the mileage, I figure I'm just wasting time if I go that far and don't drop a new pump in.

 

Hey gents i need help, i have a 2000 7.3 f-350 with 350,000 miles. i am looking at what i think is a rear main seal leak was getting ready to drop it this weekend end until i started reading this fourm.(by the way great info) so when that hpop leaks it seems like the leak is coming from the rear main seal? Would this cause a rough start up and idle until the motor warms up? PLEASE I NEED HELP

 

Yes, but there's many things on top of the engine that will leak down into the valley and into a drain in the back and down the oil pan and transmission and look like a rear main leak. You should start your own thread and these guys will help you out big time. They've helped me out many many times. Even with the same problem and my leak ended up being a "non serviceable plug" on the bottom of the hpop.

 

Did yours act the way I described mine did with just a leaking plug? I may pull the pump and do that joker first, (and put on a new gasket) and see if that does it vice buying a new HPOP

 

IHMANKY:

Go to Joey's site (Terminator Engineer) and scroll through the "Photos" of the installation. Please note that he is installing a dual HPOP setup in this instructions, so you don't need to remove your Y-pipe or anything like that. However, everything you need is in those photos, including a number of wrench sizes. Here's a link: Picasa Photo Gallery > Terminator Install ( Picasa template by www.paulvanroekel.nl )

Bob at Dieselsite has a downloadable PDF for installing his Adrenaline HPOP, which can be found here: http://www.dieselsite.com/1994-20037...alinehpop.aspx

I do remember needing a 24mm socket on a breaker bar to keep the engine from turning over, when we were using the torque wrench on the HPOP gear. Used a T25 and T20 torx bit for something, but can't remember if that was for the RR FRx or the HPOP. Have a number of box end wrenches and both SAE and Metric sockets. You'll also find you will get a lot of use out of 1", 2" and 4" ratchet extensions, depending on the area.