Transmission question I doubt that could be answered here, but who knows?
#31
With the rear case off, don't attempt to "disassemble" anything, but put penetrant on the shaft area. You'll likely find, that the shift rod will move. While doing that, work on the shaft with the area exposed to try and free it up. I still insist, that it's likely the shaft, and gains made by removing the rear cover may be minimal, but access to any moving part could mean the difference between success, and failure. Keep working the shift lever, while gaining some leverage in the internal side of the mechanism. These old units are still around, because they were stout. They fail from human error, and debris being introduced, more often than from wear and tear. Stuck valves, and levers are par for the course when working on antique fire apparatus, and being persistant is the only way to get them operational again. Just don't wack anything in there too hard, it will break, and you will have an extremely difficult time finding replacement parts. Gentle taps of a hammer, and the use of a wood block work great, as does tons of penetrating oil.
#32
The rear casting is off... almost... and that blasted U Joint Yoke didn't need to come off either . The rear casting is seperated fromt he secondary transmission by about an inch now. However, I cannot get it off to expose the shifting rod to spray it down with penetrating oil and free it up. It's caught up on something. The shaft that runs through the rear casting still turns the forward drive shaft, even though it's extended out an inch, and even at the full extent of any angle I can get manuvering the rear casting.
Right now it looks something like this from the side:
I think that the inner portion of the rear drive shaft that protrudes through the rear casting is still geared up and am terrified to start doing things to it just to see what I can break.
Right now it looks something like this from the side:
Code:
Trans ----+ | | Seperated Rear Casting dangeling from shaft | \ /\ |\ \/ / | \/ / | / \ ----+/ /\/\ \/ \/ (note the removed yoke here)
I think that the inner portion of the rear drive shaft that protrudes through the rear casting is still geared up and am terrified to start doing things to it just to see what I can break.
Last edited by bmoran4; 09-26-2011 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Added code block for ASCII Art to preserve whitespace.
#33
#34
#35
Without being there, and seeing it for myself, I would have to go back to my original thought, that you will not get that cover off without removing the shifting parts. It would seem, that not unlike many other transmission assemblies, the shift fork/rod, whatever it happens to be, needs to be removed prior to tear down. The rear cover is likely one of the last assemblies to tear down, when the proper procedure is followed. Thw whole thing, most likely needs to be dropped, and torn down from the front to the rear in order to unhook, unbolt, unpin, whatever rod, lever, or mechanism that holds that shift assembly together. The gears, slides, etc., etc. on the inside did not appear to be froze up, the problem is still likely as simple as a stuck rod, and can probably be unstuck by being generous with the penetrating oil, and some gentle coaxing with a hammer.
#36
pump and transmission
send me the model# and any info on the name plates and I will check friday with a place near me that repairs and overhauls fire trucks. My email is dragonmaster0690@yahoo.com I will see if they have any info or someone that does.
#37
Having contacts when dealing with things like this makes all the difference. Sometimes, a local library may also be a good source for documentation regarding items such as these. Often times, the old ways are better than the new ways, and information found in literature is more plentiful than information on the internet. Books are like an antiquated archive, leaving the internet as a more modern library of knowledge. If it hasn't been uploaded to the web, it can't be found here, but the information has been printed at some point, and may be found in the most unlikely places. Sometimes, a local fire department may have a source for the information, as well as the local library.
#38
Waterous CA-4 Dataplate
send me the model# and any info on the name plates and I will check friday with a place near me that repairs and overhauls fire trucks. My email is dragonmaster0690@yahoo.com I will see if they have any info or someone that does.
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Phil
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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10-27-1999 01:35 PM