Hi everyone,
Well I have gathered up all the pieces to commence my AWD conversion on the F1.<O:p</O:p
This is stage 2 (followed by stage 1- research and development) but if you plan on following the progress be prepared to take it slow. I am not in any rush to do this twice so I am taking my time.
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Firstly, I am not all knowing. I have tried to do my prep work pretty well but if there is something I have overlooked please do not hesitate to contact me through the forum or my contact details in my profile. I do not want to hear from haters! I am trying hard to do something that I haven’t seen done yet (it may be something common to some obscure race engineering workshop or the likes. If so please pass on their details). I may make mistakes but it is ok, I have many angle grinders and welders etc and there is no problem that can’t be resolved.<O:p></O:p>
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A quick run-down on what I am trying to achieve,<O:p</O:p
I have a dual cab F1 body on a std F1 chassis. The chassis was previously modified to accept the HQ front end (may be HT, but this isn’t a Holden forum so don’t bother correcting me, I don’t care).<O:p</O:p
I will be plonking a 460 Ford big block motor in with a Hollinger RD6 sequential shift gearbox (after saving up ALL the pennies) Why? Because it can be adapted to suit the transfer case for the AWD system and it would be really cool to have sequential shift.<O:p</O:p
I am using a donor Mercedes ML500 chassis and transferring the front and rear transmission cradles in a bolt on bolt off format to the F1. The idea being keep the mods to the actual Merc driveline pieces to a minimum so if anything needs to be repaired or replaced they can be.<O:p</O:p
I will use the Merc transfer case. It may not handle the power well but the AMG version puts out a fair few horses so I may need to find out if there is any difference between the AMG version and the Std 5L version. I want to use the Merc transfer case because it is solenoid driven and can be set to rear wheel only, 70/30 split or 50/50 at the touch of a button. Quaife make quite a good mini spool for the differential so the rear one (at least) will get a bit of a treatment. I will also use the Merc steering bits and pieces and of course disc brakes etc. <O:p</O:p
Why AWD? 2 reasons, The first is that I had quite a heavy boat that was difficult to get out of the water. The idea was to be able to flick it into AWD and pull it up the ramp. The boat is gone now (but that is a totally different story, and a very sad tale) but I am sticking with my plans as I have all the bits now.<O:p</O:p
The second reason is because I have never seen a nice 4WD/AWD conversion done on these trucks. My apologies to the boys who have the bronco front differentials etc but I really want this thing slammed. The Merc uses air controlled suspension etc and will be able to maintain a low stance whilst having the benefit of AWD.<O:p</O:p
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I have attached some shots of the Merc chassis showing the transmission cradles. I have started the engineering process now to ensure the thing can be driven on the road at the end of all of this. <O:p</O:p
To ensure accuracy during the transfer I have scanned the chassis and important features into a 3D modelling program using a Faro arm. Sorry guys, I don’t have access to a laser scanner at this time so it is just a bunch of dots in space. If someone has access to a laser scanner I will be happy to do it again so it looks pretty for everyone to look at.<O:p</O:p
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The steps are as follows:<O:p</O:p
Measure the F1 and ML chassis to work out the modifications required to the F1. <O:p</O:p
Fabricate a rolled replacement section for the Chassis out of RHS for the clearance required over the front and rear axles<O:p</O:p
Fabricate droppers for the transmission cradles<O:p</O:p
Mount the transmission cradles<O:p</O:p
Mount the steering components<O:p</O:p
Mount the motor & gearbox. Positioning the cross members for gearbox and drive shaft supports (note- at this point I will determine if I need a dry sump or whether I can get away with a std version)<O:p</O:p
Make a new list of all the crap I now have to do<O:p</O:p
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Well, <O:p</O:p
Here we go!<O:p</O:p

Photos are in my user profile

 

Right, I have re-paid my membership so here are the photos!
A few more posts wth images coming

 

And more close ups of the ML chassis

 

Photos 9-11
I will retain the sway bars etc from the ML (i think it will wok o.k with the air ride) Maybe someone can help with some info on suspension here. I have been in a few air ride cars that were shocking. I am not interested in really quick dumping of ride height, just would like to go low & slow on the smooth stuff.
Should i keep the sway bars fo this (note they articulate togrther in this set up so lowering the car will not twist the sway bar at all. It is able to rotate with the rest of the assembly)

 

A good shot from the rear showing the alignment of differentials and a shot of the cab from behind

 

At the moment the ML chassis is hanging from the beam. Thankfully i have some pretty solid steel work in the shed because i do not have enough room to drop it on the ground.
The garage is full but i like it like that (means i can hide from the wife

 

Very cool... are you going to run. Love to see your scan is it AutoCAD 2011 compatible? Any other scans you made of the truck? Also am I seeing things or is this converted to right hand drive?

 

Cool idea. I have a 1999 ML-430 I bought new and love the way it drives and handles.

What year is the ML running gear? How familiar are you with the ML running gear? Do they still use the torsion bar front suspension and are you planning to keep it? Are you planning to use the traction control and anti lock brake systems? You know the traction control uses the anti lock brakes to control wheel spin. I think you have your work cut out for you wiring-wise.

I definitely want to see how this one turns out!!

 

Im envious of your work space, and love your project as you have described it. An undertaking of that magnatude is way out of My skill level, so ill just enjoy watching your build.Im empressed that there are people that do have the know how to tackel things like this. Good luck ill love watching it come together for ya.

 

Original RHD, Australian delivered

 

the chassis is from a 2003 model.
No way will i use the ABS/locker differential system or ABS at all. This has been told to me to be the worst way of cheaply replicating a limited slip diff ever. I will replace centre hubs with Quaife LSD units.
They do use the torsion bar system and control the ride stiffness / height with it bit it will not be used (you can see the pick up in one of the close ups of the cross member) but i wont use it as coil over (rear) and torsion bar (front) will be replaced for air ride units
Wiring won't be as bad as it seems because i am not employing any of the 100s of wired systems used on the Merc. Brakes will be simple, no torsion assem., air ride is pretty simple, Quaif LSD centres rather than ABS LSD so no real wires to anything but the transfer case (i hope)

 

I dont exactly but like i said, if i take my time and think things through and with a lot of good advice this should be fun.
Thanks for the encouragement

 

AutoCad files can be saved as pdf files. They can also be printed out and scanned into jpg images.
Jpegs can be saved on here.

 

Mervy49, I understand that I can save stuff as PDF or even JPEG... I saw in his orig post that he used a Faro Arm, I've read about these and would love to have some of the data that he has been able to measure. If I had access to a Fargo Arm I don't think I could sleep, as I would be measuring everything I own... and putting it into AutoCAD or Solidworks (two 3d software I know). Also I was wondering what software they can convert the files to be used in what software?

 

at the moment the data is a point cloud (literally looks like dots floating on the screen). I use SolidWorks and once i have modelled the chassis from the data i am happy to pass it on to anyone who wants to play with it. Obviously it will be of my chassis which i am sure is slightly different due to 1948 manufacturing tolerances but it should help