It started intermittantly but only took a couple weeks for it to go full on all the time. I now have to turn the key to turn on the electrical system, shift into neutral, then start the truck.

How do I fix it. Please advise.

Thank you,



Little_Scrapper

 

Check CJB fuse F9 first.

If it's okay, you probably have either a faulty brake lamp switch or the wiring harness near the switch or the shift lock solenoid is sticky.

The same signal that disengages the shift lock is also used to disconnect the cruise control when the brake pedal is pushed or tapped. Check to see if that feature works.

 

I'm not sure what you're saying here. Are you able to turn the key to the Run position and shift to neutral without stepping on the brake pedal, or will the shift lever only allow you to shift to neutral if you step on the brake pedal? The shift interlock should work the same if the engine is running or just the key is on.

If you're not having a problem shifting from Park, but the problem is the truck will only start when the shift lever is in neutral, that would suggest a problem with the Transmission Range Sensor on the transmission.

-Rod

 

The truck wont shift out of park when I start the engine. If I just turn the key forward without starting the truck. The run position, I can then shift into neutral, start the truck, and shift from neutral into either forward or reverse. If I shift it back into park it wont shift out of park again. I must turn the truck off, put key in the run position and shift it into neutral again b4 starting the engine.

 

Last road trip I recall the cruise control didnt work any more either.

 

Check the fuse and the BPP switch anyway.

He is following the procedure in the owner's manual to bypass the shift lock.

 

Ahhh, I'm used to ones where you need to push a button or flip a lever to shift out of park when the interlock is stuck (recently had to do this on my Aviator due to a bad BPP switch). I didn't realize you could shift to neutral with the key on without pressing the brake. Good info.

-Rod

 

Are you talking about the number 9 fuse located on the far left side of the dashboard? I have no clue what CJB means.

If so then the #9 fuse is good. I even sanded the contacts to cleanit up. I also pulled the BPP switch and opened it and cleaned all the contacts. A couple of the contacts (#1 n #2) were blackened a bit. But still no difference. What a pain in the **** that switch is to remove and replace. Not even sure I put it back on right. The way I put it back was with the wire connector facing up and then put the plastic washer thingy pushed on over the post and last the cotter pin

Whats next to try.

 

Make sure it is adjusted correctly, 1/2" movement on pedal should close the switch, brake light come on and shift lock solenoid releases... You will need a test light or DVOM to test...

 

I dont see how it could even be adjusted. One side of the BPP bracket/switch-body is simply a "hole" that fits over the post on the brake pedal arm. The other side (read outter side) is just kind of a hook or open ended oval type arrangement. Picture of it: More Information for MOTORCRAFT SW5219 You must slide the "hole" over the post just a little bit, then take the linkage arm (part that goes through the firewall) and slide that over the post. Then push the BPP switch on the rest of the way. The post will be sticking out past the open oval side of the bracket just a bit and I slid the plastic washer/spacer on over the post; which snugs the BPP switch up because the washer takes up the rest of the slack between the post and the open holed side of the BPP bracket. Then the cotter pin.

EDIT: Unless the washer/spacer goes on the post "inside" the BPP bracket. ie it goes on the "inside of the open oval side of the bracket. Now Im confused, can someone please advise the proper installation configuration. Ill google in the mean time.

should the connector of the BPP switch be faceing up or down when installed. If down, then I put it on upside down. Guess I should have payed attention when i changed it originally.

I found what appears to be a pin point test for my truck here.

2000 Explorer XLT 5.0 Computer and Control Systems Pinpoint Tests

The BPP starts on page 103.

It doesnt mention anything about the shift lock though.

 

Using the user ID and PW provided in another thread to an online auto wiring and repair info site, I may have installed the switch upside down. The instruction on there (although the diagram was VERY crude AND BACKWARDS from mine), say Im supposed to put the washer on first and the open oval side against the brake pedal arm. Maybe this is why the instructions say position the U-shaped part "over or under" teh pin; depends which side of the brake pedal arm the rod is on.

I will try flipping it over tomorrow after work when i have some daylight.

 

SUCCESS!! It was in fact installed upside down.

Washer/bushing thingy needs to go on the post first with the shoulder part up against the brake arm. Then the switch and linkage part. Works good. connector part faces down. phht figures.

Thanks for all yourt help guys.

 

Glad you got that sorted, thanks for reporting back... Philip

 

Its not working again. It worked the day I changed the BPP switch position but after that it quit shifting out of park again. And last night, I went to the store, and when I got back into my truck, as soon as I started the truck the headlights came on. Even though the headlights switch was turned off. When I got home and shut the truck and headlights off, the head lights stayed on. I had to start and shut off the truck a few times and played with the head light switch and finally the head lights shut off.

I think Im developing electrical probs.