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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #16  
Old 07-07-2011, 02:07 PM
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I hear ya Chuck,
Thats why I wanted to ask about this. I don't want to bypass safety here. I will do it right the first time. To me, there is no room for trial and error, when it comes to stopping safely. Many things can be bypassed or shortcutted, but i firmly believe in safety when it comes to stopping.

Ok Rhopper:
You said to get the prop valve with the light switch. My brake light switch is on the brake pedal. So you mentioned wiring being a problem on yours.
Can't i use the brake pedal switch!
Also I was planning to use the round style pad on my brake pedal! I swear i didn't make this up! but that was my plan as well! LOL
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Old 07-07-2011, 06:59 PM
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If you already have the brake light switch handled, then no worries. The inline with the prop valve is so much easier, but I found that out after I had plumbed mine with out and had to fab a switch on the pedal. The round pedals just look cool and they look like they belong.
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Old 07-07-2011, 08:02 PM
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He might have used a Master Cylinder that has a proportioning valve built into it...
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  #19  
Old 07-07-2011, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Alcaeus View Post
He might have used a Master Cylinder that has a proportioning valve built into it...
hey good point! but i would think he would have told me that, because i was asking him specifically about what he did about a prop valve.
Can you tell whether a m/c has one? or is it internal and can't tell visually.
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  #20  
Old 07-21-2011, 01:07 AM
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Stumped on the master cylinder

Hi Guys,
I would like to use this master cylinder. Again its from a '91 t-bird.
I only need the two normal ports. the other side has the antilock "thing-a ma-jigs" . I don't want to change out the vacuum booster/pedal assy. because it fits nice. plus i don't want to start over. I want to remove the two pieces and plug the holes but I'm not sure if such a plug exists. They are metric, I think. I think as I am typing this, I know the answer I'm going to get. I need a different m/cyl....I have been trying to find a non antilock m/cyl but they are slightly smaller diameter where it slides into the vacuum booster....not sure if I should use this or not...
I can plug the ends of the antilock fittings but then they just hang out there all ugly as heck.
What exactly are these fittings? proportioning valves? I feel really stupid for letting this stump me...but none the less, it is....
I don't have the money to just order a new assembly.(wish i did though)
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  #21  
Old 07-21-2011, 12:25 PM
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Ok I will try again. I was tired last night!
Does anyone know if there is a plug that I can buy to eliminate those antilock fittings? they are a metric thread..
Its a last effort to use what i got here.
Sounds like I need to go back to the drawing board!
I hope i can find a unit that has the same firewall bolt pattern...

I can learn alot at the salvage yard, but its way to freaking hot right now!. I hate cabin fever in the summer!
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  #22  
Old 07-21-2011, 01:33 PM
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If you have a short piece of brake line remaining, make a line between the two fittings, but weld the line closed on one end. Maybe they make a plug to insert in the end of the line flare. It will look neat, but not in use. chuck
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  #23  
Old 07-21-2011, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 49fordpickumup View Post
If you have a short piece of brake line remaining, make a line between the two fittings, but weld the line closed on one end. Maybe they make a plug to insert in the end of the line flare. It will look neat, but not in use. chuck
That might work Chuck! But I would like to find plugs for it. But that would be one of those things that people ask about!

I am trying to figure out what size of plug the holes would take. they are metric and also a parallel thread. I do know that the thread pitch is 1.0mm

Im workin on it! Thanks!
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  #24  
Old 07-21-2011, 08:52 PM
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Okay, I got this problem whipped! Got one that fits the '91 t-bird, but without antilock brakes! now i just got to find a plug or short bolt that is a metric...M12 x 1.0 pitch (HARD TO FIND)

and a M10 x 1.0 pitch(not so hard to find)
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  #25  
Old 07-21-2011, 10:36 PM
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How about going to pic-a-part and cut off the line and fittings you need. Cheap. chuck
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  #26  
Old 07-21-2011, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 49fordpickumup View Post
How about going to pic-a-part and cut off the line and fittings you need. Cheap. chuck
I would have to find the right bolt. Not sure why, but a M12 x 1.0 bolt or plug is a rare item. I have looked on the web and there are others looking for the same. seems wierd to me but...I will figure it out...ain't no hill for a climber!
I will make a few calls tomorrow.
I bought some brake line nuts in that size. I was thinking about knurlizing the inside of one and then braze it shut, or maybe even thread it for a small bolt and copper washer. I am a tad concerned that the heat from a torch might mess it up. Its worth a try because they are cheap. The hole in the M12 x 1.0 nut is sized for 3/16" brake line so its a fairly small hole.

I am in too deep to give up on this now!
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  #27  
Old 08-05-2011, 07:38 PM
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any updates?
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  #28  
Old 08-06-2011, 04:19 PM
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Well not much, but i did thread the inside of the brakeline nuts and spun some allenhead bolts in with lok-tite. I haven't got much done because it has been hot! But the weather is breaking so i will get back to it soon.
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Old 08-06-2011, 04:19 PM
 
 
 
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